Landrover 130 brake upgrade

[detritus21]

You use a swing meter or a Tarpley? meter to do the brakes on a permanant 4x4 vehicle which the 130 is. The reason for this is to prevent wind up in the transmission and significant damage like something will go bang or it will shoot of the rollers.

 

What brakes have you got on the back. Have you got drums or discs. If you have drums you need to check that they are adjusted correctly and that they aren't contaminated with oil. You can upgrade to discs on the back and as far as I am aware there is a readilly available kit to do so. You can have th brakes tested on a rolling road if you drop the front prop for the back brakes or the rear or rear for the front. That would then give you an idea of whether they are working properly.

 

I can hold a 45 year old landy on the foot brake with no servo and drums all round on a 1in3 by standing on the brakes. The rear brakes on the 130 should lock up they do have a bias so the front lock first but still they should lock up. The only reason then for you to slide would be the tires overcoming the resistance to the road and essentially skidding but it should be all for wheels that slip as opposed to just the fronts or just the backs.

 

Hope that all makes sense

[b101uk]

You use a swing meter or a Tarpley? meter to do the brakes on a permanant 4x4 vehicle which the 130 is. The reason for this is to prevent wind up in the transmission and significant damage like something will go bang or it will shoot of the rollers.

 

yes 90/110/130 are permanent 4x4, but they have a centre diff, they are also designed to be put on MoT roller brake testers 1 axel at a time with the centre diff unlocked, if you look in the big thick LR workshop manual it says that, all my 90/110 have gone on roller brake testers, if i also recall (got rid of my last land rover) it says the same thing on the warning plate fixed on the fuse box cover just in front of the gear sticks.

 

the exception the above with Land Rover products are the one’s witch don’t have a manually locked centre diff but are permanent 4x4, like some RR/disco or some of the retro fit v8/auto box in 90/110/130

[detritus21]

Oops forgot about the centre diff thing.

[Dean Lofthouse]

It was a tarpley swing meter.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but wont you need to put the transfer box into neutral to allow one axle to be isolated whilst on the rolling road?

 

If so I could just take it to a rolling road and ask them to test it?

[b101uk]

It was a tarpley swing meter.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but wont you need to put the transfer box into neutral to allow one axle to be isolated whilst on the rolling road?

 

If so I could just take it to a rolling road and ask them to test it?

 

no, all that putting the transfer box into neutral dose is just disconnects the drive from the main gearbox so power from the engine doesn’t reach the centre diff so PTO can be used, but you could put it in neutral if you wanted

 

yes, drive each axel onto the roller brake tester, place the main gearbox in neutral & realise the clutch peddle BUT DON’T PUT THE HANDBRAKE ON! and when instructed press the brake peddle, in essence do as you would do when testing the rear axel of a RWD car but do it for both axel on the Land Rover

 

also do both axels twice, once forwards and once in reverse.

 

is it a disk or drum rear axel?

[Paul Smith]

it could be the F:R bias valve &/or the check valve that is fulty.

 

someone may have put e.g. 90 bias valve on it in the past?

 

is there a visual inspection to tell which one you have? The brakes on my 110 Ex utility are not brilliant but I know it has a lot of weight winch etc.

[crosscut]

If its a drum braked axle, we have the answer! My old 110 wouldn't even lock the back wheels up on gravel, yet would sail through the MOT on the brake tester!

[Dean Lofthouse]

is it a disk or drum rear axel?

 

It is disc front and back with salisbury axle at the rear

[b101uk]

Well working back from the rear callipers to the master cylinder at things that could cause a problem with braking force.

 

1: incorrect or pore quality brake pads that are for a to hot an environment or are just to hard/wrong compound (have always found mintex to be good value and work well with Land Rover‘s)

 

2: a seized piston in each rear calliper (no asymmetric braking force?)

 

3: damaged flexi hose for the rear axel (internal damage acting like a 1-way valve at #psi aplication)

 

4: faulty G-valve (fitted on the rear brake line, looks like a 1-way valve mounted horizontally in the rear brake line near chassis rail mid point, it works off inertial forces and regulates pressure to the rear brakes vs. them, normally fitted to some civilian 90‘s and quite a lot of military 90/110 ware towing trailers is common, being a 130 it will have come via LRSV’s with towing trailers in mind and drastic unloaded/loaded weight change?)

 

5: C-valve, check valve for circuit protection - low pressure warning device.

 

6: master cylinder has centre seals failed, so on brake application pressure is leaking across from the rear brake portion to the front brake portion causing equalisation but no external leek or fluid loss is seen as the outer seals are ok.

[dave K]

Im sure you have already checked, but I assume the trailer had the correct nose weight ? if it was loaded slightly to the rear or balanced it would lift the rear of the 130 enough to cause the problem. However it is a problem I have encountered on several of the 28 different lr vehicles I have owned ! my present 130 weighs 1266kgs empty so iam aware that on loose surface and glazed tarmac you can have problems when the max tow weight behind ! The most recent was on a borrowed TD5 disco I lost traction on wet steep tarmac hill, a great time to find out traction control faulty, and the 3500kgs pulled me back down about 6 feet ! Sometimes we ask to much ?