Chain 'spins' on for a while, no throttle

[peatff]

I had this with my 135 and it was the oil pump drive sticking to the crank spinning the clutch. I made a clutch tool from an old socket I cut with the angle grinder which did the job nicely and I cleaned the pump drive centre with some wet and dry and greased it. I had tried a new spring and slowing tick over and it does seem to take a while to stop but the brake stops it.

[jimug]

To everyone, thanks, I've learned a lot from this thread and will have a look at the clutch and other bits under it. Never had the saw apart although it doesn't get heavy use it's a good opportunity to see what's what inside. Will report back when I do it.

Although I sometimes think I'd like a bigger/better machine it's been faultless so far and is nice and light and gets the job done for me, and I'd be loathe to retire it if it can be kept working

@peatff I'm in Chesterfield too...

[adw]

2 hours ago, peatff said:

I had this with my 135 and it was the oil pump drive sticking to the crank spinning the clutch. I made a clutch tool from an old socket I cut with the angle grinder which did the job nicely and I cleaned the pump drive centre with some wet and dry and greased it. I had tried a new spring and slowing tick over and it does seem to take a while to stop but the brake stops it.

Good point, i also saw some like that.

[Muddy42]

20 hours ago, adw said:

For the sake of a clutch spring, or clutch bearing its well worth spending a bit on.

Fair point but I got sucked in after someone gave me a free non-working Husky 135.  I probably did 10 different repairs at a few quid for parts plus postage each time.  You end up thinking I have spent X already so I might as well fix Y.

 

I know nothing about the age and how much use this saw has had, but probably a few years to wear out a clutch spring.  With these cheap homeowner saws there is a point at which you should just move on and get a new one, its only £160 ish for the cheapest stihl/husqvaras now.

 

[jimug]

Had the clutch off the saw yesterday, and the spring looks fine to me - but I couldn't see how I'd manage to take it off. Does the clutch slide apart? Whilst I'm at it I'll look at the oil pump drive but would like to see the spring in its relaxed form too while I'm at it

[peatff]

The centrifuge bits come off backwards or the middle comes out forwards whichever way you look at it.

[GarethM]

Taking it off won't make a difference, as was suggested replace the spring or the whole assembly.

 

You can't realistically unstretch a spring, it owes you nothing if you've had it for a while.

[Muddy42]

When replacing only springs, sometimes string can help.  Get the clutch secured down somehow and get a piece of string tied around each end of the spring and pull apart.  Same in reverse with the new spring.

[jimug]

All makes sense. Not suggesting I'd in any way 'fix' the existing spring - I have a new one so may as well fit it. Just couldn't quite see how, but if it's as easy as pushing the middle out I will just go belt and braces. (what I was alluding to was assuming the existing spring looked OK, just checking the oil drive, but I think I'll do both while I'm at it)

[Muddy42]

Im not sure what you mean by the "middle"?  In these situations, extensive youtube learning is helpful. Like this: