help with bar oil pump

[pleasant]

Using your post muddy, as an example, you can see why, as a dealer it is cheaper in terms of labour to simply replace failed parts as a unit rather than trying to repair. Get a lot of carbs with issues...cheaper for the customer for us to simply fit new. Customers ask 'before you fit a new carb, can you attempt to repair the old one as it will be cheaper' No it won't if you have to pay us to remove, re-build, re-fit, then potentially remove again and then fit new, you are looking at two lots of labour plus the cost of a carb kit which didn't improve things.

 

As Muddy is not costing in his labour, then not an issue and will be interested to see how it all pans out, but pricing up the labour involved to do what muddy has done so far would be eye-watering in a workshop.

 

(Just a very mild rant at some of my customers that think labour cost nothing)

[Muddy42]

3 hours ago, spudulike said:

I once had a plastic pinion that looked perfect but when you followed the thread whilst slowly turning the pinion, the thread neatly went from a helix in to a perfect ring where the pump had got tight so the gear of the pump was never going to turn.

Is the arm on the pinion relatively tight? If it is too loose, it won't work.

 The pinion looks fine and the arm is held tight, but i guess as the gear is plastic, it could wear. I will try the new gear with the old pump first.
 

 

1 hour ago, adw said:

Back to basics, has the pump shaft got a throw? ( reciprocate ) when you rotate the shaft it should move in and out to create a throw, no throw no oil! 

Yes it does throw/reciprocate a little, but maybe not enough. I’ll examine the new one before using it.

 

thanks for all the help everyone, it’ll be Friday before I can work on this and report back.

[Muddy42]

13 hours ago, pleasant said:

Using your post muddy, as an example, you can see why, as a dealer it is cheaper in terms of labour to simply replace failed parts as a unit rather than trying to repair. Get a lot of carbs with issues...cheaper for the customer for us to simply fit new. Customers ask 'before you fit a new carb, can you attempt to repair the old one as it will be cheaper' No it won't if you have to pay us to remove, re-build, re-fit, then potentially remove again and then fit new, you are looking at two lots of labour plus the cost of a carb kit which didn't improve things.

 

As Muddy is not costing in his labour, then not an issue and will be interested to see how it all pans out, but pricing up the labour involved to do what muddy has done so far would be eye-watering in a workshop.

 

(Just a very mild rant at some of my customers that think labour cost nothing)

 

@pleasant Yes I can see that.  It wouldn't take long for a proper hourly charge +VAT  to increase beyond the cost of the new part or even a new saw.  My time working on a saw is basically leisure time and I enjoy tinkering after work so my time is free. I hate to see an old saw scrapped.  Then there are the retired cash-in-hand guys who aren't VAT registered who are still pricing their time like its 1970.....

[pleasant]

Very true....some of my customers who are retired and then start a little gardening round. Buy a 200 cheapie mower stick it the boot of their car...which hasnt got business insurance....and then charge themselves out at 8 or 10 quid an hour.

 

A mower running for an hour is going to take most of that in fuel, then you have the costs to get there and back........they may as well devote their time to the ground of an old peoples home or churchyard and do it for nothing for charity. 

 

Pity the younger guys who have got all the accreditation, expensive, decent kit, a van, insurance, van and liability...then tax on income. 

[Haironyourchest]

1 hour ago, pleasant said:

Very true....some of my customers who are retired and then start a little gardening round. Buy a 200 cheapie mower stick it the boot of their car...which hasnt got business insurance....and then charge themselves out at 8 or 10 quid an hour.

 

A mower running for an hour is going to take most of that in fuel, then you have the costs to get there and back........they may as well devote their time to the ground of an old peoples home or churchyard and do it for nothing for charity. 

 

Pity the younger guys who have got all the accreditation, expensive, decent kit, a van, insurance, van and liability...then tax on income. 

 

Accreditation for mowing?

[spudulike]

21 hours ago, Muddy42 said:

Yes it does throw/reciprocate a little, but maybe not enough. I’ll examine the new one before using it.

How the thing works...just in case you haven't twigged it yet....the end of the gear is cut at an angle and the adjuster has a nobble on it that allows the nobble to be positioned either slightly off the centre or much further off centre on the end of that gear. If the pump is set to "max", the nobble will be close to the outer edge of the end of that gear making it reciprocate much more than if it is closer to the centre.

The pic below is of what looks to be a 346 Husqvarna type pump but it shows the above.

[Muddy42]

Right so, with a new oil pump and new worm gear, the saw oils the bar just fine. So all is well that ends well, but I am still not really sure what was causing the problem.

 

Maybe the plastic part of worm gear was worn, but replacing it on its own didn't cause oil to flow.  Maybe internal surfaces of the pump were worn.

 

Thanks for the helpful suggestions.

[spudulike]

Good, thanks for letting us know that all is sorted. 

[Muddy42]

So this is another update to this MS460.  As above I was having all kinds of issues with chain oiling. I cleaned everything out and replaced faceplate, oil pump, worm gear and oil tank breather.  But I still wasn't that happy with the oiling, even with the setting turned to max.

 

Bar oil had been leaking a bit so I wanted to test the alignment of the bar to the saw.  I traced the shape of the bar on a piece of cardboard and put the carboard next to the saw.  Right enough the holes didn't quite match.  I could tell the nose sprocket was getting worn and occasionally the nose seized up, so I had nothing to lose because I was looking at a new bar anyway.  So I have opened up up the oiler holes on the bar with a drill press to 5mm and them cleaned it up with a dremel.

 

This seems to have helped, the bar is spraying oil off the tip again.  Fingers crossed - I've had lots of false dawns before!  

[spudulike]

Blimey!