261 New Crank

[N1ck]

I have a 2013 MS261 (non M-Tronic) that I have owned from new. It has all the usual problems associated with the crank - eats needle bearings, destroys clutches, rattling clutch drums, worn oiler arms etc. Because it was always a bit of a dog it hasn't done much work. With the short days I have a bit of time in the evenings for tinkering. I know it is uneconomic to do but I am considering tearing it down and fitting a new crank. My questions are:

Will a new OEM crank be decent quality or is there still a risk of picking up one of the old batch with the dodgy heat treatment?

Has the bottom end been redesigned on the newer 261 and if so will a new crank fit the old housings?

I have never split a crank case (and probably won't again). Is it possible / not a massive pain without buying lots of specialist tools to press bearings and oil seals etc.

Is it actually worth it once I have bought a new crank, bearings, oil seals and any other wear parts I end up replacing while I have it torn down (I am not factoring in my time)?

Should I just drop the money on a new 261, which I think have sorted out the problems, and use this as a parts donor?

[pleasant]

42 minutes ago, N1ck said:

Is it actually worth it once I have bought a new crank, bearings, oil seals and any other wear parts I end up replacing while I have it torn down (I am not factoring in my time)?

Well, no not really. A new stihl crank on its own is in excess of £200, then you have gaskets, seals, bearings etc. What's a 2013 ms261 worth in good working order in fairly decent condition.....£350 I suppose, but probably less so now as most people who are interested in an ms261 know about the early issues you have so don't offer much or steer clear and save their pennies for a later model

 

You won't buy a later good, low hours 261 for what its going to cost you to repair it using the modified later crank, and you should end up with a reliable saw....for yourself to use. But not as a money making exercise though

Edited November 12, 2023 by pleasant

[N1ck]

It would just be for my own use and as a bit of project to learn how to do a full rebuild, but wondering if it will end up as a box full of bits at the end of the workbench.

[pleasant]

Well, only you can stop that happening.

[N1ck]

What tools are a must for the crank case or can you muddle along with deep sockets etc?

[ChrisNewport]

i rebuilt a few using aftermarket cranks off German ebay (no UK seller had them at the time) a few years ago, and know of 2 that are still in use the others were sold on. In total it used to cost me about £80 for all the parts needed, ie bearings, crank, seals and gaskets. If youre not fussy about how you do things as your crank is knackered you could just remove the screws and belt the crank end with a hammer to seperate the cases. 

[spudulike]

I usually use two types of puller when splitting cases but as Chris says, your crank is knackered so beating the crap out of it won't cause you any issues. 

You may find a bit of warming up of the cases will help...an oven if all the plastic and rubber parts have been removed but only if it won't go without it.

Make sure ALL the screws are removed, looking at an exploded diagram can help on this and never try to prise the cases apart or try doing it from the case cylinder opening as you will damage the mating surfaces or worse! 

It would be a good learning curve if it works out. One thing to also remember is to de-stress the bearings on reassembly. All they need is a couple of light wallops with a copper mallet on each end of the crank shaft and the crank rotation will go from spongy and slightly tight to nice and loose.