Hayter 48 Pro Drive not stopping!

[blawn89]

Hi all, I have a 2005 hayter 48 Pro, which does not idle without the roller driving. The drive bar on the handle makes it drive faster, but it does not stop when it is released, it just slows down a little. Help needed, is there a quick fix for this?

[adw]

Cable adjustment possibly.

[pleasant]

This is right up my street....been waiting for a hayter walk behind question having been selling and repairing them for yonks.

 

What is the model code on the silvered sticker on the body...i suspect it is the squarer chassis design....from the 480 series?

 

Is it definitely a pro model with the briggs ohv intek engine, bull bar on the front and additional rear handle support brackets?

 

The drive  'bar' on the handle simply should engage and disengate the drive to the roller. The other 'bar' is the opc....the one you let go to cut the engine.

 

You should have a throttle lever on the handle which incorporates the cold start choke setting. Tortoise and hare markings are there to indicate fast and slow engine rpms....not roller drive speed as this is not variable....it is a fixed speed drive. Nothing you can adjust on any lever will alter the roller drive speed......ok sure, if you reduce engine rpms, then the drive will slow, as it is driven off the engine pto, but vice versa, it wont cut or collect very well at low rpms, so that isnt an option.

 

The engine stalling without drive going to the roller tells me this is a lh side early pto engine. This will have a belt from the pto pulley on the left side of the engine routed back to a corresponding pulley on the lh side of the rear roller.

 

I would suggest the belt has worn and dropped further down the v pullley than it should, so unless you allow the roller to turn to dissipate the pto energy from the engine then it will stall out. You appear to have a direct drive symptom -alllowing the roller to move whilst the engine is on idle removes the engine stalling effect.

 

It may not be the belt....but they do wear as all belts do and they therefore slide further into the v pulley where they get stuck. However the tensioning lever on the underside that the clutch cable is attached to can also seize in the upwards....or engaged position, thus creating permanent drive. Where the tensioning lever pivots within the alloy chassis can partially seize due to damp grass and crud ' rusting' or corroding the alloy. Be careful if this is the case as you wont be able to undo the steel inspection plate bolts as they corrode over time in the alloy chassis due to the two metals reacting. You wont be able to get those sheared bolts out, so then you have a hole in your underside which fills with even more grass. I would advise you not to attempt removing those bolts. Try and release ithe jammed tensioning arm with penetrating fluid using a long thin nozzle.....dont force the pivot bush as it is bolted to a bracket which is part of the alloy throwplate and will shear right out the plate if forced very easily. Throwplates are now obsolete if it is a 480 series, .thus remdering your mower to be a push mower for the rest of its days. 

 

 

Edited April 27, 2023 by pleasant

[blawn89]

Thanks @pleasant, appreciate the detailed response. Yes, the mower is that model, with the support bars on the handle and the 'bumper' bar on the front. 

 

One other thing, the roller doesn't roll freely or 'freewheel' when the engine isn't running. Is this likely to be due to the tensioning arm being stuck / cable seized?  

[pleasant]

3 hours ago, blawn89 said:

Thanks @pleasant, appreciate the detailed response. Yes, the mower is that model, with the support bars on the handle and the 'bumper' bar on the front. 

 

One other thing, the roller doesn't roll freely or 'freewheel' when the engine isn't running. Is this likely to be due to the tensioning arm being stuck / cable seized?  

Well, yes. The drive isnt disengaging so is in constant drive. Only four things can cause this. Firstly, like i said earlier the belt is jammed in the v pulley groove...through wear, or if it hasnt been used for sometime they can 'stick' secondly, the tensioning lever arm for the belt has jammes in the upwards position retaining tension of the belt. This is spring loaded and should release when you disengage the clutch lever on the upper handle. If it is stiff or seized it wont release as the spring simply isnt strong enough to pull the lever down and away from the belt. Thirdly, the belt may have jumped the pulley on the engine pto or roller and jammed the drive thus petting it in constant drive. Lastly if you have 'crimped' the clutch cable badly enough so the inner cable will not slide freely ....normally see this when people transport them and they fold the handle down and dont get the cables out of the way of the handle pivot point and it crushes the cables.

Edited April 28, 2023 by pleasant