Pick Up tippers with original buck / tub

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

I have a 4work L200 and would love it to tip with the original back. I'd have it tomorrow if it were possible.

 

Ditto.

[gensetsteve]

Have you tried taking the pic into photoshop and lifting the back by 10" my guess is it would look very strange. Tippers get a very tough life in the depths of winter we load up to 8 times a day with a bobcat. rest of the year the processor is spitting big bits all over it.

[dent]

Have you tried taking the pic into photoshop and lifting the back by 10" my guess is it would look very strange. Tippers get a very tough life in the depths of winter we load up to 8 times a day with a bobcat. rest of the year the processor is spitting big bits all over it.

 

it would not have to be raised if the sub frame for each part was next to the chassis rail rather than on it

 

and refering to my other post l200 sigle cabs have the filler in the middle of the tub

[tommer9]

I think that this is a great idea, but one that is basically unworkable to the degree tht you think guys. I know of 3 110 hicap defenders that use the original butt, and the owners of them cant stand the fact that the wheel arches are there. One company has 2 and the 3rd is owned by someone else. It also ruins the lines of the vehicle as it was impossible to build without installing a new subframe for variuous reaons. The most obvious reason that raised its head is the fact that the chassis rails of any vehicle are not flat unlike the underside of the butt, so along the length of the chassis are mounting points creating a level surface on which to mount the bodywork. Another reason that subframes cannot be mounted next to the chassis is that things like spring hangers and shock absorber mounts are welded to the chassis rails, and moving these would mean interfering with the structural integrity of the vehicle, and probably mean entering a whole world of what usd to be SVA requirements. The inside of the chassis usually houses fuel tanks which would have to be moved to accomodate tipping subframes. Furthermore there are strenght issuse with not fitting a whole subframe to the vehicle and thus affecting the lines of the vehicle- in order to tip there need to be hinges at the rear of the tipper unit/ vehicle chassis, and there isnt a chassis out there (short of L/R) that is anywhere near strong enough to take those sort of pressures- i have seen some that are just made of channel on its side at the rear end!!

I cannot see that it is possible in any way to achieve your goals, having built a tipper myself and looked at loads first. I also spoke to the engineer who built 2 of the aforementioned hicaps.

There is obviously a good reason why tippers are made the way they are, and i will be truly amazed if you guys coem anywhere close to succeeding where nigh on 100 years of truck manufacturers havent, with millions of dollars of research to play with, although if you can come up with a solution ticking all your boxes (original appearance, tiny cost etc etc) then i will be one of your first customers:thumbup1:Good luck.

[Dan@GBTE]

Yes factory fitted tippers are strong enough but the original body panals (is that waht you are calling bucks???) are not as strong. SO a tipper made to look like its not a tipper would not be as durable as an actual aluminiun doubles skinned tipper as is alread available direct from the factories.

 

Refittign an almost new body set for minimal costs ready for resale, and leavign the expensive tipper unit ready for the next new vehicle would be a good proposition.

 

Ok Rupe, all taken aboard. I think if you ordered your new vehicle, say an L200 from factory with the tipping body and then decided to remove this and fit the standard tub for resale would be quite expensive. Our guys have worked on L200's previously and we removed the tailgate to fit some other equipment. We know that a Genuine new tailgate to suit the current shape L200 is c. £600 unfitted! I'd hate to think what the whole butt would cost.

 

But thank you and we'd like to also offer the plank dropside option but we're also trying to adddress the aestetics side too.

 

Dan,

 

Could you fit a ali tipper body like this to a Nissan D22 (aka NP300) Kingcab? The one in the pic below is the D40 Navara.

 

I am looking to have this done in the next few months. I'd need the sides at least double the height of the one below.

 

Basically can a job like this be done professionally for under £3500 inc VAT?

 

I think this could be done professionally within your budget with approximately 800mm or so high sides but they can be adjusted in 100mm increments.

 

Im sure you have seen this before but i wanted to do simular to my old 109 but ran out of money and effort. The Log Rover Project

that black navara does look good and probably just because someone has made the effort to paint the butt.

 

TC, thanks for that post. I hadn't actually seen that although i've done a lot of research on google / yahoo and various fourms. It's nice to know that it can be done although I now see that the load area of the Land Rover isn't seperate to the cab which is a shame.

 

I have a 4work L200 and would love it to tip with the original back. I'd have it tomorrow if it were possible.

 

 

Thanks Mick, this is nice an positive.

[tommer9]

 

 

TC, thanks for that post. I hadn't actually seen that although i've done a lot of research on google / yahoo and various fourms. It's nice to know that it can be done although I now see that the load area of the Land Rover isn't seperate to the cab which is a shame.

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah, the ideal landrover is the hi-cap or the likes of the 130 rapiers etc that started out as chassis cabs before land rovewr special vehicles fitted separate butts to them. The only way to convert standard bodied landies is to either change the rear bulkhead etc or be very good at ali work!

[Dan@GBTE]

Have you tried taking the pic into photoshop and lifting the back by 10" my guess is it would look very strange. Tippers get a very tough life in the depths of winter we load up to 8 times a day with a bobcat. rest of the year the processor is spitting big bits all over it.

 

it would not have to be raised if the sub frame for each part was next to the chassis rail rather than on it

 

and refering to my other post l200 sigle cabs have the filler in the middle of the tub

 

Hi Steve, Dent is right our aim is to come up with a solution which raises the bed height by a minimum and hopefully no more then 2"/50mm.

 

The filler neck, we'll have to look at, Mitsubishi, for the factory fit tipper has come up with a solution so I'm hoping that we too will be able too.

 

I think that this is a great idea, but one that is basically unworkable to the degree tht you think guys. I know of 3 110 hicap defenders that use the original butt, and the owners of them cant stand the fact that the wheel arches are there. One company has 2 and the 3rd is owned by someone else. It also ruins the lines of the vehicle as it was impossible to build without installing a new subframe for variuous reaons. The most obvious reason that raised its head is the fact that the chassis rails of any vehicle are not flat unlike the underside of the butt, so along the length of the chassis are mounting points creating a level surface on which to mount the bodywork. Another reason that subframes cannot be mounted next to the chassis is that things like spring hangers and shock absorber mounts are welded to the chassis rails, and moving these would mean interfering with the structural integrity of the vehicle, and probably mean entering a whole world of what usd to be SVA requirements. The inside of the chassis usually houses fuel tanks which would have to be moved to accomodate tipping subframes. Furthermore there are strenght issuse with not fitting a whole subframe to the vehicle and thus affecting the lines of the vehicle- in order to tip there need to be hinges at the rear of the tipper unit/ vehicle chassis, and there isnt a chassis out there (short of L/R) that is anywhere near strong enough to take those sort of pressures- i have seen some that are just made of channel on its side at the rear end!!

I cannot see that it is possible in any way to achieve your goals, having built a tipper myself and looked at loads first. I also spoke to the engineer who built 2 of the aforementioned hicaps.

There is obviously a good reason why tippers are made the way they are, and i will be truly amazed if you guys coem anywhere close to succeeding where nigh on 100 years of truck manufacturers havent, with millions of dollars of research to play with, although if you can come up with a solution ticking all your boxes (original appearance, tiny cost etc etc) then i will be one of your first customers:thumbup1:Good luck.

 

Hi tommer9, thanks for your reply. This is the sort of post's one of our engineers will love tomorrow when I show it to him. He likes to come up with a solution for everything which work's flawlessly, but the points you've raised are all valid. We've spoken with one dealer already and we're hopeful not to cause any problems with the VCA but at the moment I'm just passing on what we've been told.

We have experience working with the undulating profile of chassis and is an issue we came up against a few months ago while working on a US import Ford F350 Stake Bed which was converted to a curtainside body.

We've always produced full length tipping subframes on tippers be it Transit, Canter, Merc etc and usually on DAF's even though their "Tipper chassis" are desinged so they don't actually need one on the LF45. Anyhow, the tipper subframe is something we intend to continue to do if required and as said, we'd like to produce our own before offering it to make sure "a" it can be done and "b" doesn't have any issues with bending the chassis etc. Thanks for the luck.

[Dan@GBTE]

it needs to be affordable mate, nothing you dont know already. If you could do it for a grand then i think you would have a queue as far as the eye could see, i am no engineer, i cant even weld, but i do have ideas, and i always get let down by guys with welders who dont want to try new ideas. A back that looks standard with a lid on it, but when you want to make it bigger, the top is in 2 halfs, they fold up to make your greedy sides, then 2 small bits unfold, 1 on each side and create the headboard. and then you just take out the canvass made to measure roof cover out of a lovely small bag, it fits as snug as a bug, bunjee it onto the tie down clips(that can be used when the sides are a top as well) job done.

 

Hello again, this morning I was thinking about what you were saying last night regarding the fold up greedy boards. I think I interpreted what you were after not quite right.

 

I'm no CAD man as you'll tell from my basic drawings (in Microsoft Word ) which I then converted to separate images and further converted to an animated GIF.

 

Is this what you mean..........

 

 

Dan

[tommer9]

Hi Steve, Dent is right our aim is to come up with a solution which raises the bed height by a minimum and hopefully no more then 2"/50mm.

 

 

I think that mine is only raised by about 3" which is the height of the channel the sub frame is made from. One has to accept that whatever one does the original lines of the vehicle will be changed if using the original butt, which is possibly why 4x4 tippers are built the way they are. When using the original butt you are forced to put strengthening sub frame in for the tip thus raising the bed.

[Steve Bullman]

thats a neat idea