Stihl 038 AVS Farm Boss (late ‘80s) worth saving?

[Macpherson]

1 hour ago, Just_Alex said:

The only thing I really couldn’t find on their site was a Bing 48A carb repair kit, so sourcing that is the next mission.

 

Is this what you're looking for ?

 

Bing Carburettor Kit Will Fit Stihl Chainsaws MS380 MS381 & Later Models Of 038

WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

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Fits Stihl MS380, MS381, later 038. Fits Bing Carb model 46-01-BNG. We will always go out of our way to source the...

 

[Wonky]

I just popped back to catch up 🤔😉. As with every garage, the mechanics have their ways and choices. And have too guarantee their work… that’s why I said what I did before and Remember I spoke about tolerances as well.

so if the ring end gap is way past it’s best and the piston is getting something near the tolerance. 
i agree change both at the same time, as I said time is money… change it while your in there.

 

however.. I’ve been playing with the 038 I shoved back together with  those rings .25 ring end gap !  It runs good..so will be good with new rings 

when I do change the rings I will measure the piston gap. 

 

So Saturday I'm hoping to run a few tanks of fuel through it one go   it and get a vid or two while I'm at it.  I’ve got to freehand a log into a cant. I shall take the 044 as a back up and make sure  I will get to play with it. 

 

and before I go. The 044 with all that worn piston skirt pic .. I did measure the ring end gap of those rings , they were in the range .45 iirc. Which is way to big. And the skirt gap was a far bit bigger. I just wanted to show some garbage that someone said runs good.🤣

 

Btw this 038, I have a guy that’s interested in it, and he said put new rings in it as I’ve taken it a part..

well I’m running it hard on Saturday, and the rings are not here  yet. So I guess he will get me run a tank of fuel after i install the rings 

 

 

[Just_Alex]

Small update. Rebuilt the carb as best I could. Not a super duper high spec carb kit I fear but at least it’s new and it’s had a clean. 

 

before

after

Edited April 9, 2022 by Just_Alex

[spudulike]

The suspense is climbing...not much to live up to after 12 pages of posts

[Just_Alex]

23 minutes ago, spudulike said:

The suspense is climbing...not much to live up to after 12 pages of posts

@spudulike waiting on parts now- might not get everything needed right away as a couple are on back order from Stihl. Hope I can do it justice!

 

Did a bit more cleaning today and wondered if it’s possible to replace the oil hose through the oil cap somehow, have you ever tried that? The manuals seem to think it’s possible but I’m doubtful I could reach in there. Is it just a matter of pulling off the old hose & filter and shove a new one on with long nose pliers?

 

God I hope the crank seals are still good after all of this 😂

[spudulike]

Not done the oil pickup on an 038 before but from what I can see, you push the rubber pickup on to the metal elbow that goes through the oil tank wall. Generally pickups push through from the clutch side oil tank wall but this one looks like two flexible hoses go either side of the solid elbow. 

try it, forceps are generally a good tool for this sort of thing.

If the hose is OK, leave it well alone!

Edited April 9, 2022 by spudulike

[Just_Alex]

1 minute ago, spudulike said:

Not done the oil pickup on an 038 before but from what I can see, you push the rubber pickup on to the metal elbow that goes through the oil tank wall. Generally pickups push through from the clutch side oil tank wall but this one looks like two flexible hoses go either side of the solid elbow. 

try it, forceps are generally a good tool for this sort of thing.

Much obliged @spudulike, I’ll try it! On another note, I’ve been musing if I can fashion some kind of pressure/vacuum testing kit or if there’s not much point? Maybe a bit of flat bar as a seal on the exhaust side of the cylinder, and some kind of tyre valve fitted to flat bar mounted to the intake? This way I might be able to attach a tyre pump to pressurise… not sure what to do about a vacuum test, need to find a way to suck out the air….

 

Anyhow im sure it’s all possible, just not sure it’s worth it or if running the saw will tell me in other ways if there is a seal issue. Eager to hear your thoughts  

[spudulike]

You can use a brake bleeder kit to produce a vacuum, a bicycle pump for pressure and use a Gunson low gauge as I did for a bit but the Mityvac does it all for you but obviously at a cost and there is the rub. I have used mine a few hundred times and it has saved me loads of hassle finding issues and ensuring my customers get a saw that is perfect and won't go pop in the next few years.

In your position, you are likely to use it once or twice and that is the issue, someone running a business needs this sort of kit and can invest in it amortising the cost over many repairs and unfortunately, you can't unless you enjoy this sort of work and start your own business etc etc......

 

Maybe a simpler method is the saw should die if you turn the L screw all the way in, if it doesn't, it most likely has an air leak.....it takes a bit of experience but is an indication!

[Wonky]

 

Just a short part of me cutting yesterday ,

I had a 25”bar on it. The elm tree had to be debarked & burnt, “Council requirements” 😉. so the quickest way was to sort of noodled abit and bias cut as well as a little bit of ripping, and sort of ended up with a very very bad cant and a lot less wood to burn. but it really put the saw to the test with many long hard cuts
the log was one length (approx 16’) so I cut it in half [2 x 8’ ] to make the job easier 

I think a used about 2 tanks of fuel

btw I’m not a fan of the old style clutch covers as they get packed up with noodles and fines then if your not careful it gets packed in the bar rail.

 

[Just_Alex]

10 hours ago, spudulike said:

You can use a brake bleeder kit to produce a vacuum, a bicycle pump for pressure and use a Gunson low gauge as I did for a bit but the Mityvac does it all for you but obviously at a cost and there is the rub. I have used mine a few hundred times and it has saved me loads of hassle finding issues and ensuring my customers get a saw that is perfect and won't go pop in the next few years.

In your position, you are likely to use it once or twice and that is the issue, someone running a business needs this sort of kit and can invest in it amortising the cost over many repairs and unfortunately, you can't unless you enjoy this sort of work and start your own business etc etc......

 

Maybe a simpler method is the saw should die if you turn the L screw all the way in, if it doesn't, it most likely has an air leak.....it takes a bit of experience but is an indication!

Thanks @spudulike I’ll mull those options over, nice thing with your last method is it requires a screwdriver which I already own