Echo CS-501sx ignition

[BobbyDee]

My Echo CS-501sx has died. It appears to be the ignition/magneto as no spark is seen when trying to start - tried with 2 new plugs. Can anyone tell me please how I can electrically test the unit using a meter so I can get a proper verdict on whether it is definitely fargled? It doesn't bode well as I've researched a replacement part (P021-049550) and it would appear that it is unavailable (unless anyone knows better) which is annoying seeing as how the saw is only 5 years old and was not cheap. TIA.

 

[lux]

My Echo CS-501sx has died. It appears to be the ignition/magneto as no spark is seen when trying to start - tried with 2 new plugs. Can anyone tell me please how I can electrically test the unit using a meter so I can get a proper verdict on whether it is definitely fargled? It doesn't bode well as I've researched a replacement part (P021-049550) and it would appear that it is unavailable (unless anyone knows better) which is annoying seeing as how the saw is only 5 years old and was not cheap. TIA.
 

Funny enough mine played up today. Been a faultless saw until now.
Was working fine then mid cut mid morning sounded like a bag of spanners
Didn’t seize but running terrible.
Probably 2.5 yes of daily pretty much daily use

Will investigate later…..

Cracking saw so hopefully an easy fix

[BobbyDee]

39 minutes ago, lux said:

Funny enough mine played up today. Been a faultless saw until now.
Was working fine then mid cut mid morning sounded like a bag of spanners
Didn’t seize but running terrible.
Probably 2.5 yes of daily pretty much daily use

Will investigate later…..

Cracking saw so hopefully an easy fix

Yes it's a solid grunty saw, or would be if it would run but not being able to get spares is a bummer. I'll probably have to buy a replacement which will not be Echo. Problem for me is that it's a strange time for petrol saws with electric versions being the way to go allegedly yet I'm not a fan.

[lux]

Yes it's a solid grunty saw, or would be if it would run but not being able to get spares is a bummer. I'll probably have to buy a replacement which will not be Echo. Problem for me is that it's a strange time for petrol saws with electric versions being the way to go allegedly yet I'm not a fan.

Not had an issue with spares for my echo kit.

Battery chainsaws are not there yet for anything comparable to it.

Climbing saws yes. Ground saws. No.

[spudulike]

No way of testing the coil as it contains a lot of electronics rather than just a conventional electronic coil.

The usual method is to test the HT lead from the cap to the laminate earth and you should get some sort of reading this way. The next thing is to set the gap much smaller than normal by using printer paper, disconnect the kill wire and see if you get a spark - I open the end electrode up to a 45 degree angle so you really get a good spark as it is easy to think the coil or plug has failed because you aren't generating a big fat spark. Also - give the engine a BIG pull when testing, some need to be spun over fast to generate a nice spark.

If you still don't get a spark, it is very likely that the coil is shot - I did have a flywheel lose its magnetism once but it is rare and rarer still on a modern machine - it is usually heavy impact or age that messes them up!

[lux]

Easy enough for mine. Lost the electrode. Spark plug was loose when it played up so electrode probably got hot as the plug was getting loose.
Found most of inside the exhaust.
Popped the cylinder open to inspect and Flush/clean just in case. All looks good so anything else must of blown out the exhaust and no damage.
Hopefully a new plug and away we go. ..

[lux]

[spudulike]

Lucky that didn't take out the bore. I have seen some real crap plugs from Chinese Manufacturers. Stick with NGK and Bosch IMO.

[lux]

Lucky that didn't take out the bore. I have seen some real crap plugs from Chinese Manufacturers. Stick with NGK and Bosch IMO.

It is an NGK plug.

I did notice the top piston ring was tight when I went to re assemble

It was pinched in the recess. Snapped it out as refused to free up. Looks like a couple of new rings to the replace whilst I’m at it.

No scoring on the pot or piston. In fact totally smooth but got to think why the top piston ring would be like that. As there is no other damage it’s u likely to be related I suppose.

[spudulike]

Unusual for NGK to break. The tight ring groove - use the broken ring to make sure the new ring fit isn't tight otherwise the ring will wear badly and not seal well.

It is tight as the broken electrode will have impacted the edge of the piston crown - there should be a visible impression of the electrode on the piston crown edge and probably the squish band on the combustion chamber.