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Two rope working retrievable anchor(s)


charlie
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Does anyone have any pics or can recommend a good setup for a retrievable anchor?

I predominantly use moving rope for my primary climbing system and then stationary rope for my back up. At the moment I use a pulley saver for my MR and then a quickie for my SR.

 

 

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I just use cambium savers. For srt I have a long rope coming out the bag through the cambium saver and to the ground. Once I have fed enough through to reach the ground plus redirects I just tie an alpine butterfly on the small ring side and safety it with a carabiner through the hoop and around the tail. When I get to the ground I just stick a retrieval ball onto the end and then pull out the cambium saver. It also means I can switch from srt to ddrt whenever I want. Just pull the knot side of the srt line down, undo the knot and you have the ddrt line ready to go which can be handy. If you're unsure about a tree you can also base tie the tail of the srt line so you have a top tie so the weight isn't doubled but you have the backup of if that fails the rope might drop onto the next branch down. Alternatively you can set it up with a petzl ID as the base tie so you have a ground recoverable anchor and not put the knot on the cambium side. Lots of options.

 

Someone needs to invent an easily movable anchor. The petzl eject looked good but you have to remove the rope to move it so you might as well have a cambium saver considering the cost.... 

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I use a cambium saver as described by Paddy, but with a triple lock krab instead of the large ring, which means you can advance it up the tree. If you are canny with the size of krab it is retrievable too.

J.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not really sure what that video is doing.  Seems a lot of faffin’

 

I also thought it was bad juju to climb on a toothed ascender when there is a potential for shock loading?  I.e. the adjustability of the second anchor ‘avec le duck’

 

I am sure there are better or safer options out there.

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Not really sure what that video is doing.  Seems a lot of faffin’
 
I also thought it was bad juju to climb on a toothed ascender when there is a potential for shock loading?  I.e. the adjustability of the second anchor ‘avec le duck’
 
I am sure there are better or safer options out there.

You can substitute the duck for a Prussic.
It’s a pretty simple method really . I’ve only used it a few times though but it retrieves well and is retrievable mid climb instead of a usual extra cambium saver which you can only retrieve at the end .
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