Sachs Dolmar 153 advise

[damski007]

I have just purchased a Dolmar 153 with a 32” bar, and intend to use it as an Alaskan mill. How do I know what cc this is and would it man enough?. I am very green to this so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[gary112]

7 minutes ago, damski007 said:

 

I have just purchased a Dolmar 153 with a 32” bar, and intend to use it as an Alaskan mill. How do I know what cc this is and would it man enough?. I am very green to this so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Dolmar 153 is 100cc

[damski007]

Dolmar 153 is 100cc

Thanks mate.

[gary112]

2 minutes ago, damski007 said:

Thanks mate.

I don,t do milling but would have thought it was plenty powerful enough

[damski007]

31 minutes ago, gary112 said:

I don,t do milling but would have thought it was plenty powerful enough

Thanks again, I hope someone can give advice on what chain etc would be best to use.

[gary112]

6 minutes ago, damski007 said:

Thanks again, I hope someone can give advice on what chain etc would be best to use.

Pretty sure someone will be along soon with some sound advice,there,s plenty on here who do milling with loads of experience

[bmp01]

My advice would be to do a proper health check on saw before you start milling - paying attention to fuel system and check for air leaks around crankcase seals, intake boots, gaskets etc. As you're probably aware milling is harsh, it'll find any mechanical niggles in short order. Might be best to do some cross cutting first too, make sure it behaves itself. I'd set the saw up to run a little rich which will keep piston temps a tad cooler.

 

Depends what value you put on the saw. And can it be rebuilt if it seizes a piston? 

 

I did all the above with a seconhand 390XP and it still shat itself in a 12" milling cut. Later I learnt it had an aftermarket piston and repaired cylinder in it..... thats the lottery of secondhand saws.

[damski007]

My advice would be to do a proper health check on saw before you start milling - paying attention to fuel system and check for air leaks around crankcase seals, intake boots, gaskets etc. As you're probably aware milling is harsh, it'll find any mechanical niggles in short order. Might be best to do some cross cutting first too, make sure it behaves itself. I'd set the saw up to run a little rich which will keep piston temps a tad cooler.
 
Depends what value you put on the saw. And can it be rebuilt if it seizes a piston? 
 
I did all the above with a seconhand 390XP and it still shat itself in a 12" milling cut. Later I learnt it had an aftermarket piston and repaired cylinder in it..... thats the lottery of secondhand saws.

Thanks for the advice, you have been very helpful. Do you know anything about cutting angles and such or is that getting a bit nerdy so to speak, I would like to get the smoothest and easiest cut possible.

[bmp01]

I have limited knowledge regarding cutting angles but if you do some digging I'm sure you'll find info on here. 

[Fatboy2017]

Echo on what was previously written, take care of condition of saw, parts are getting thin on the ground, most NLA, cylinders and pistons rare to say the least. If you're only milling with it, remove the chainbrake ( if it has one!) Use fully synthetic top quality 2 stroke oil, at least 40:1 ( maybe 32:1)  others will have an opinion on that and premium or ethanol free fuel.  Treat it like the geriatric it is, don't push it and enjoy!