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can anyone run a serial number for me?


TheGingerMan
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Oil your tube end and the hole :blushing: then push it in to the hole and pull it through with well worn non sharp pliers.....don't want to split the thing!

You can use forceps on the other end if it isn't connected - good enough for arteries, good enough for fuel/impulse lines!

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32 minutes ago, spudulike said:

Thats what I call foreceps....mine were fishing ones for disgorging hooks.....and lock...and look the same as yours;)

Mine are a bit more bashed than that web picture, I have one straight and one bent  tip pair. I guess fishing out rubber hoses has been their main use.

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Another thing is what is the name of the black rubber in this video? It's at the front of the tank housing on the inner side, when I fully separated the saw and put it back together it didn't fit like it had done before, as if the saw is out of line, not straight anymore and doesn't give the same snug fit like it had done. I wonder if it has perished in taking the saw apart and that's what's stopping it from fitting so well. Also to note it seems like its caused trying to tighten the screw into the annular buffer to not happen, it won't bite

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1 hour ago, spudulike said:

From the IPL, it doesn't look like there should be a buffer there - 

http://thebakeliteradio.com/sawspares.com/Stihl 028AV IPL.pdf

 

odd, wonder why the tank housing and crankcase isn't fitting together like it did,
Another query i have is the cylinder bolts are different sizes, 2 long and 2 short. is it small at the back of the cylinder and long at the front?

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No idea on the tank housing, have you pushed the AV annular buffers in fully? On the screw holes -  I would look at the holes they are going in to and measure the depth if blind holes and fit the screws that won't bottom out. You have to make sure that the screws won't bottom out or puncture the material behind the screw which can lead to issues or damage to the saw.

It is possible a numb nuts has fitted the incorrect screws. Some saws have a cylinder base of different thicknesses front to rear - like the 395XP and the longer ones go to the rear as the cylinder base is thicker to the rear of the cylinder.

 

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