Vertical milling options

[KWarb17]

Hi all

Appreciate it's probably been covered elsewhere on here but I'm currently looking at options for vertical milling of timber.

Currently run a double ended setup with 880s and have a project coming up where I'm wanting to mill beams etc.

Question is how accurate is the Alaskan Mill attachment you can get.  I know others have used chainsaw track saws but just exploring the options. 

 

Thanks in advance 😁

Edited March 9, 2021 by KWarb17

[Rough Hewn]

Hi all
Appreciate it's probably been covered elsewhere on here but I'm currently looking at options for vertical milling of timber.
Currently run a double ended setup with 880s and have a project coming up where I'm wanting to mill beams etc.
Question is how accurate is the Alaskan Mill attachment you can get.  I know others have used chainsaw track saws but just exploring the options. 
 
Thanks in advance [emoji16]

Which one?
There’s quite a few on the market.
Rob.D does a good one
[emoji106]

[KWarb17]

7 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

Which one?
There’s quite a few on the market.
Rob.D does a good one

Golly that was quick. Thanks mate 

I was looking at the G555B Granberg Vertical Mini Mill.

Thoughts?

[Johnsond]

37 minutes ago, KWarb17 said:

Golly that was quick. Thanks mate 

I was looking at the G555B Granberg Vertical Mini Mill.

Thoughts?

I’ve have the mini mill as per first pic and to be honest it’s very easy to go off plumb, I’d say the second pic of the Haddon type thing would be more stable and probs give a more accurate cut. I was doing 9” cuts in Douglas using a 461 with a 20” bar over  4.8m and it was not easy going, ended up rigging a winch on end of slabs to pull the set up forward. 

[Shezza]

Have you considered the panther intersect?

[KWarb17]

5 minutes ago, Shezza said:

Have you considered the panther intersect?

I have but the bank account doesn't seem to agree🙄

[Shezza]

1 minute ago, KWarb17 said:

I have but the bank account doesn't seem to agree🙄

Could you get two of those haddon style ones and attach them both to a single 'axle' but spread apart a bit (running on two separate 2x4s) to give you much much more stability?

If the 'axle' was threaded you could adjust the width of it to get maxium spread and therefore accuracy on bigger logs but make it more useable for smaller logs... 

[KWarb17]

9 minutes ago, Shezza said:

Could you get two of those haddon style ones and attach them both to a single 'axle' but spread apart a bit (running on two separate 2x4s) to give you much much more stability?

If the 'axle' was threaded you could adjust the width of it to get maxium spread and therefore accuracy on bigger logs but make it more useable for smaller logs... 

A possible option yes!  Would depend on how that axle attaches to the bar I guess because it looks like a clamp. Guess cuts on the edge of the log would be a challenge in this scenario. 

[Rough Hewn]

Another option...
Get an L bracket which fits on the guide bar bolts.
A sheet of thick ply on heavy tressels.
Then cut a slot for the bar to fit through.
Bolt down saw with bar pointing down through ply.
Flip the lot and you’ve got a massive table saw.
[emoji106]

[KWarb17]

40 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

Another option...
Get an L bracket which fits on the guide bar bolts.
A sheet of thick ply on heavy tressels.
Then cut a slot for the bar to fit through.
Bolt down saw with bar pointing down through ply.
Flip the lot and you’ve got a massive table saw.

Now that sounds fun😂

Stick the 70inch bar on, will get the apprentice on it and have him shoving 30 inch logs through like a pack of cards 👍