Ms 150 shaking starts well but judders at the tip.

[Paddy1000111]

I see what you mean, almost sounds like a car being bounced off the limiter! 

[Stubby]

3 minutes ago, Paddy1000111 said:

I see what you mean, almost sounds like a car being bounced off the limiter! 

Depth gauges ?

[Paddy1000111]

1 minute ago, Stubby said:

Depth gauges ?

It's doing it out of the cut too? I don't suppose these have an RPM limiting ignition coil on it and it's leaned out and being limited by the ignition pack? Not massively familiar with the 150... 

[Stubby]

1 minute ago, Paddy1000111 said:

It's doing it out of the cut too? I don't suppose these have an RPM limiting ignition coil on it and it's leaned out and being limited by the ignition pack? Not massively familiar with the 150... 

It would not be the limiter when in the cut .

[spudulike]

Almost impossible to see what you are talking about and not helped by using a saw at full tilt to do extremely light cuts but understand why seeing some of your work......nice BTW.

Is the chain too tight? I usually get a screwdriver behind a cutter and spin the chain, it should NOT stop dead but spin on for an inch or two.

I go back to the engine mounts - if you take the clutch off and take the inner cover off, there are two large head T27 screws behind it, both are engine mounts and should be tight! This is a common fault with the top handle saw, not seen a rear handle one yet.

Saws do four-stroke when revved flat out but is difficult to detect on these small saws, may be worth checking the air filter is clean - solvent and compressor and also open the H screw out fully to the stop.

[spudulike]

The coils are limited and you can't really call that cutting as the saw must be damn near max revs!

[bmp01]

1 hour ago, spudulike said:

The coils are limited and you can't really call that cutting as the saw must be damn near max revs!

Exactly, reving its nuts off.

Ignition cutting is my punt based on the sound. Richen it up a tad and it will be 4 stoking just below the ignition cut speed. Must have leaned out a bit over time or increased its revs as engine friction (and / or chain friction) has reduced.

 

Edited December 31, 2020 by bmp01

[bmp01]

The shaking of the bar nose thing (side to side), seen mid way through the video,  i get that on pole saws which use the same narrow kerf chain and bar (1.1 drive links).  Haven't got to the bottom of it,  but does become more pronounced as the chain becomes slightly dull.

I had assumed with the pole saw there was insufficient weight in the saw head along with a very flexible pole to hold the guide bar steady. Then again the guide bar is also quite flexible being so thin. Another thing with that bar length, you get an uneven number of left and right cutting teeth. Where the chain loop is joined you get 2 consecutive left hand cutter (or 2 right hand which ever it is). The little bit of OCD in me doesnt like the non symmetry.

Ultimately I expect there is a solution in sharpening, depth gauges, chain tension - for the pole saw at Ieast.

 

[Thompson Dagnall]

Will have a play and get back.

Cheers.

[spudulike]

Taking down the depth gauges does cause "chatter" when cutting so leaving them slightly high will help if this is the issue.