Cold Blooded MS200T?

[spudulike]

AM annular buffers or AV mounts as the rest of the world call them, are crap and they fail very quickly, use the OEM parts.

New OEM top end should be circa 180psi + as a deleted gasket one will pull 200-220psi.

Glad it is sorted, I had assumed you knew how to tune a carb with the rest of the work done but there you go....a lesson learnt and hopefully a reliable saw now!

[bmp01]

7 hours ago, Paddy1000111 said:

Well, I went to the stealership today. I'm going to stop calling them that now because they were very helpful and had a tech tune it with an EDT for free. It was all me being useless... I had the LA set too low and subsequently the idle set too low so the saw didn't have enough air on idle meaning that although the screws were in factory position it wasn't getting enough air hence it was flooding, giving the change in rpm when it was at an angle. The guy upped the LA and idle speed to where it should be and set the L jet then set the H screw which was too rich because I'm a wimp and didn't want to run it too lean. It now also doesn't bog when cold and starts faster too. 

 

He did say that the saw vibrated more than he liked on the handle which reminded me that the only non-genuine part on the whole saw was the AV rubbers as there weren't any in stock when I was re-assembling. I have now ordered some genuine ones. 

 

Hopefully this helps anyone with similar problems to me and stumbles across this thread! 

 

Glad it was as simple as that and you got it sorted.  Good result. 

Please do revisit your compression tester on a few other saws - for your own reference. 

[Paddy1000111]

1 hour ago, spudulike said:

AM annular buffers or AV mounts as the rest of the world call them, are crap and they fail very quickly, use the OEM parts.

New OEM top end should be circa 180psi + as a deleted gasket one will pull 200-220psi.

Glad it is sorted, I had assumed you knew how to tune a carb with the rest of the work done but there you go....a lesson learnt and hopefully a reliable saw now!

I should have the oem buffers tomorrow. The company I use didn't have the genuine stuff in stock so I got a cheapo set to fill a gap a few weeks back.

You know what the funny thing is, I thought I knew how to tune a carb... I don't have a EDT tool (I now have an EDT 9 on its way as LS Engineers have them for a reasonable price) so I was setting the idle too low. It sounds like the idle is fast to me now but I am used to bigger engines I suppose. The H jet wasn't far out at all, I was just playing it safe, it screams now whilst still 4 stroking at the "limit". I was also shy to have it screaming to adjust considering it was a new piston and cylinder. All of my issues were caused by me expecting to have a lower sounding idle. Hopefully with the EDT I have a reference and I can confirm what I think sounds right! 

 

I think the compression tester is a waste of time. I am going to jerry rig it up to my compressor and calibrate it on a gauge I know to be accurate to make sure it's reading right first and then try it on my 261 as a reference. I do wonder if the small stroke doesn't help with these bigger testers though.

[bmp01]

31 minutes ago, Paddy1000111 said:

....... I do wonder if the small stroke doesn't help with these bigger testers though.

You've hit the nail on the head there. 

Plus where the one way valve is in the tester - if your wee chainsaw engine has to pressurise a length of hose before the valve then you get the wrong answer. 

[Paddy1000111]

10 minutes ago, bmp01 said:

You've hit the nail on the head there. 

Plus where the one way valve is in the tester - if your wee chainsaw engine has to pressurise a length of hose before the valve then you get the wrong answer. 

This one has a valve on the end of the hose and in the gauge unit. I think the gauge is a mile off though. I'll get it hooked up to a compressor and see what it says! 

 

[wyk]

These are both on the same Jonsered 2165:

 

Proto:

 

Mercury Marine(tm):

 

 

 

TThe Proto is a quality tester, but it is at the end of about a foot of tubing. Because the Mercury tester is so short, it won't fit on many saws without completely removing their covers.

 

 

 

[bmp01]

Nice example there wyk, and that's a 65 cc saw. Presumably that was enough pulls for pressure to  reach a maximum. Where's the valve on the Procto, which end of hose ?

200t is half the capacity (near enough), gonna have bigger effect.

Edited October 30, 2020 by bmp01
Typo

[Paddy1000111]

Interesting with the difference with the hose. I installed the genuine buffers today and it feels a lot smoother. The non genuine mounts are almost like car tyre rubber, the Stihl mounts are far far softer. One annoying thing happened though. I had to take the fan cover off to do the bottom mount and when I put it back on again one of the course thread screws that goes into the fuel tank threaded out. I'm so careful with them too, I turn them counterclockwise and feel for the thread and then torque them down to the spec from the manual with a calibrated torque wrench. I'm going to drill the holes out in the tank and then install some threaded inserts and install some m4 screws to match the front so I can take the fan cover on and off as much as I want without issue. 

[spudulike]

You can fit a larger self tapper. I think the one from the very top of the recoil cover from a BG85 is shorter and fatter and fits nicely. It is the one nearest the middle of the top handle.

[wyk]

The Proto valve is in the neck, just out of view. The Mercury's is the valve itself. Like a presto bicycle valve, you simply press it and it discharges. It will always test higher than a hosed tester. I like it because it goes to nearly max within 3 pulls, and the first pull forecasts how the saw will do as it will go to nearly 1/3 what the max will read.

I rarely have to pull the Proto over more than 6 or 7 times to reach max compression. In any case, as Spud will attest, most experienced techs can tell a chainsaw's compression simply by turning the engine over, guessed within 10psi. But sometimes ya want proof - like this test here after I ported that 2165, removing the gasket - proof it made a good difference from it's previous rating of 175psi up above: