Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Lockjack ropes?


Ian Flatters
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

Log in or register to remove this advert

  • Replies 23
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

alright chap, hows things?

 

lock jacks are only "supposed" to be used with edelrid ropes, something to do with the different safety ratings, ie class a, b or c. cant remember the eact details,but basically edelrid ropes are the only ones that conform. however excellent the yale ropes are, ya not meant to use them. I recommend the madiera rope [ i think thats how its spelt ] by edelrid, it runs through the jacks cam much better as it is only 12.7mm rather than 13mm. and as its 12.7its a lighter rope wich follows you round the tree a little better, but its not SO thin that you have to wear gloves when climbing with it, tho i do.

 

hope that helps:thumbup1::thumbup1:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

alright chap, hows things?

 

lock jacks are only "supposed" to be used with edelrid ropes, something to do with the different safety ratings, ie class a, b or c. cant remember the eact details,but basically edelrid ropes are the only ones that conform. however excellent the yale ropes are, ya not meant to use them. I recommend the madiera rope [ i think thats how its spelt ] by edelrid, it runs through the jacks cam much better as it is only 12.7mm rather than 13mm. and as its 12.7its a lighter rope wich follows you round the tree a little better, but its not SO thin that you have to wear gloves when climbing with it, tho i do.

 

hope that helps:thumbup1::thumbup1:

 

where did you get that info

are spiderjacks the same

and what 11mm rope do they do for the 11mm clutch

Link to comment
Share on other sites

while i was getting my loler test done, me and my old college lecturer got talkin bout lock jacks and stuff, he mentioned that i shouldn't be using XTC blaze to work with as all climbing ropes for work situations had to conform to a certain class, A i think, and yale is a class B. got him to check it out for me. im almost 100% certain that he email the guy over at treeworker.co.uk for some info and thats what he came back with. i found that the best combination for self tailing is a 13mm cam with the edelrid rope. it slide thru much better, and gripes it better to when ya weight is in the harness.

i climbed for 2 years on a yale blaze with an 11mm lock jack, didnt work as well FOR ME as the edelrid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

while i was getting my loler test done, me and my old college lecturer got talkin bout lock jacks and stuff, he mentioned that i shouldn't be using XTC blaze to work with as all climbing ropes for work situations had to conform to a certain class, A i think, and yale is a class B. got him to check it out for me. im almost 100% certain that he email the guy over at treeworker.co.uk for some info and thats what he came back with. i found that the best combination for self tailing is a 13mm cam with the edelrid rope. it slide thru much better, and gripes it better to when ya weight is in the harness.

i climbed for 2 years on a yale blaze with an 11mm lock jack, didnt work as well FOR ME as the edelrid.

does your lecturer come on here

would be interested in his views

i hate edelrid rope tbh

and have about 8 lads on blaze

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yale blaze is a CE-EN1891 Type-B rope as opposed to most 13mm parallel core XTC etc which are CE-EN1891 Type-A.

 

There was some minor grumblings by rope geeks when Blaze was brought over here and marketed as an arb rope as the testing process never examined Type B in trees. Something to do with the friction coefficient between the two sheaths when travelling over a rough large radius like a branch IIRC.

 

Yawn.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't use Elderid power static it has a thin outer mantle and most if not all of the strength is in the core, its also not very supple. Use a dedicated semi-static climbing rope with a thicker out core better suited to abrasion (I'm no expert though so i may be wrong this is just my limited understanding) and also load bearing along with the core.

 

Furthermore, you wouldn't want to fall onto a static line...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

while i was getting my loler test done, me and my old college lecturer got talkin bout lock jacks and stuff, he mentioned that i shouldn't be using XTC blaze to work with as all climbing ropes for work situations had to conform to a certain class, A i think, and yale is a class B. got him to check it out for me. im almost 100% certain that he email the guy over at treeworker.co.uk for some info and thats what he came back with. i found that the best combination for self tailing is a 13mm cam with the edelrid rope. it slide thru much better, and gripes it better to when ya weight is in the harness.

i climbed for 2 years on a yale blaze with an 11mm lock jack, didnt work as well FOR ME as the edelrid.

 

Hello Dan

 

I appreciate that you have joined the forum & take time out to post you thoughts, particularly regarding rope use. There are many forum users who are new to climbing & treework & may find this to be a place where information can be gathered in the attempt to turn it into knowledge. That, obviously, is a good thing & I wouldn't want to discourage anyone from interacting with this medium as they see fit. That can be left to the moderators.

 

Your posts on this thread include a degree of untrue & misleading information. This may have come about from a discussion with your college lecturer or from other sources. I write this because you have implicated me & my company in this trail of misinformation. I'd like you to be sure that whatever info comes from Treeworker is based on fact & experience not hearsay & hope. I have no problem with saying that I don't know the answer to questions & queries. But it's generally not to difficult to find someone who does know the answer.

 

Sorry to pick you out on this but you said that you were 'almost' 100% sure the info came from me. Whatever % was the almost was where it did arise from.

 

Good luck & don't believe anything anyone says!!! Find it out for yourself.

Cheers

Nod @ Treeworker

:thumbup1:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use the orange New England stuff cos that was already what i had. Tried it on a static line just to see and it was superb but dont know if you'd be ok to do that and comply with HSE? The best thing i did with my lockjack was larks foot a prussik onto your D-ring and put the lockjack on that. It puts it at arms length so its where the prussik normally is. And is doesn't snag on stuff as much if at all. I find it a great little tool and it works very well for ME but other lads have used it and hate it. Try before you buy :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.