theyeti
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Everything posted by theyeti
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I do a lot of short runs of custom machining. Mainly for bikes and 'pimp my ride' type cars, but I do a fair bit for engineering purposes as well. My background is engineering but I had a 10 year-ish stint in Arb so I have contacts who get me to repair / machine parts for their broken stuff. Always happy to take stuff on.
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No, the axle sheared just inboard of the wheel bearing so I had to get it out to machine the new bits. I was speaking to someone today who knows about these things and he reckoned that the over-centre bearings were such a pain in the arse they were only fitted for a short while on the earlier machines. I've come across them on machines I normally work on, but never on a axle bearing wallowing in mud. Theres more about them here........ Eccentric Locking Collars, V Series
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For those that are interested, a bit of an update........ The collars in my picture do turn. They turn anti-clockwise as you look at the outboard ie if you were stood in the middle of the axle. Drift them round by about 1/4 turn, then they move on the shaft, which should hammer out. I had to penetrate the collars for about 2 days before they shifted but once they were moving they werent too bad. The shaft comes out easy either side, I found the best way was to use an air hammer. The vibrations seemed better than big whacks with a sledge. Hope this helps someone in the future if you're ever unlucky enough to do this job!!!
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cheers, much appreciated
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Thanks. Had plenty of heat and my 4' stilsons on it and it still won't turn. Didn't really want to cut it off as I need a fairly accurate shaft to copy when I make the new one. Doesn't look like I've much choice cheers for all your help anyway.
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Sorry for the delay - I couldnt upload the pic from my ipad. Anyway, pic attached showing what I'm trying to explain badly! Trigger - Thats exactly what I'm after thanks. PM Sent. Graham - It looks like its gonna be gas axe time soon as I need to get it back to the guy for monday and I've got to machine some bits for it as well before then.
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Morning. Thanks for your replies. The axle is a solid shaft incorporating the wheel bearings at each end and the sprocket for the drive chain (its a self drive model). It seems you take all the bearing assemblies off, loosen everything else and withdraw the axle from one side of the machine. Thats the bit I cant do!! Malcom was my first port of call. He was only interested in selling me the IPC for £50 and the bits. Ill machine the parts myself so he sort of lost interest at that point! Am off to the workshop now so I'll try to post some pics later.
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Thanks for the reply. Ill take some pics and post tomorrow - should have thought of that! Ive removed the whhelbearings as it seems that once they are off the shaft should slide out. There isnt much else stopping it apart from 2 bushes which i cant shift hence this thread as I wonder if im on the right track.......
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Evening all, Wonder if anyone can help please? Im trying to get the front axle off my 1625 stump grinder. Ive taken the wheel bearings off and slackened all the grub screws i can find and removed the bolts on the inner bearing housing, but i cant work out how to get the shaft to move!! Has anyone done this and can give Me some pointers please? Or even better has anyone got a copy of IPC so I can see how it all comes apart? Id be really grateful as at the moment im stumped. Pardon the pun!
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Dont know where in North Suffolk you are but I always use EE Green from Yarmouth. They charge £40/h (4 hours min) for a 8 wheel grab with operator. Normally the 4 hours gets everything done i need
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For what its worth - my dog drank 5l of the strongest glyphosphate and was sick but no long term effects!
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! The intervew!!
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My mate has B16 NOB, but its on his lorry and he's away so i cant get a pic
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Yes they bolt on with 3 hex bolts each. I re-read the original post and checked some papers and it would seem one I replaced them on shed its fins at just over 1300 hours so I wonder if they need changing out before that as part of the servicing?? Not a good design - they are bolt on and alloy so any slight flex and they shatter over time!!
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True! But if you look at his pics the blades are still there. I'm talking about the fins. Maybe i didnt write my post clearly
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For what its worth..... I had this on a 150s a few times. What happened was the alloy fins had worked loose. Once was incorrect torque (I think) but the rest seemed to be the leading edge of the fins had lifted slightly (or had debris under when they were fitted). I assume this because the dusty residue on the flywheel extended under where the fins were. I always balst the fins and flywheel when refitting to avoid this happening. It seems you only need a tiny gap to let the air under it. Glad no one got hurt mate
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It is 2 offences, but points issued in the same 24hr period for separate offences count as 3 for totting up, so you can in theory have more than 12 and not get banned. Thats from my solicitor who defended me against something similar last year
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I know this is Speedy Hire policy also! I did have a nice little scheme going with the bloke in our local depot who'd save me all the used chains for 'scrap' I've had a few chains break, they are all made up from a reel. But they have all been on 020s. Whether its the narrow gauge chain or what I dont know, but i know without question they have ALL been my fault through nipping the bar by rushing what I was doing. And they've never broken the rivet - the links shear at the holes. I have actually caught one when i was using the saw one handed and it did nothing to my gloved hand! Just my 2p worth
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In Oz and most of Africa they are work trucks. They all are chassis cabs with custom rear bodies. They dont do that option for the UK market otherwise I'd have one like a shot. They are bomb proof compared with a landy. I've only ever seen one chassis cab cruiser over here and that was gone within an hour of going on ebay. Never seen a second one. Am actually thinking about gettin gone brought over
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Had to clear some units out for my mate that he used to rent. I did it for free but I could keep what I wanted. most of what was in there was metal of some sort so I did it. It was a fabricators i think and they used the nickel for some kind of coating (Like galv??) It was in small pellets. Only had a bucklet full but i had to empty it to lift it lol
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Depends. Is it rolled, cast, dirty, clean etc? Also, you wont get ton price for small quantity. You'll get kilo price which is about 10% less. Rolled alu was £1.50/kg tuesday but that was only a peak for 24h. No one knows why!! Wed it was back down to the usual of 65p
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You need to find someone who's good with small ciruits. TV repair guy, electronics company, Auto electrics place (one who repairs the brains on cars) etc.
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Its about £3500/ ton at the moment for clean copper. Weight it yourself before you go though! Never trust a scrap man lol. And thats from one of my best mates who has a big scrapyard Took some nickel in last week. £16000 a ton :) Happy days!!! Although only had a small bit and nowhere near a ton.
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Absolutely!
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There is a small resistor which went down on the circuit board when this happened to my mate's. It cost pence from RS components and it was soldered in place without a problem. Worth a try before you get a new box?
