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Posted

I’d be careful , I run 3/8 on 550’s and have put an 8pin on , Saw bogged out a lot more on any timber.
Just converted a 560 back as well.... I don’t think there is all that it in and it’s a pita having to remember to put an extra link in.

Posted

I found that going up a pin on a rim on my 357 worked faster on sub 8" timber but then it slowed down on the larger stuff. I generally use the standard rim on most saws as if you tune the saw, you can lean on them harder and that is what I like.

  • Like 1
Posted
20 minutes ago, Ratman said:


No, its a 7t, does fine for me, but i’m not a pro user.

So thats the whole point. ....

Going to 8 tooth will increase chain speed by a multiple of 8/7 but it will reduce the torque by the same ratio. As is the way,  you can't have something for nothing.

 

  • Like 3
Posted
So thats the whole point. ....
Going to 8 tooth will increase chain speed by a multiple of 8/7 but it will reduce the torque by the same ratio. As is the way,  you can't have something for nothing.
 

I ran an 18” bar on it originally, but just felt it was slightly too much for it when i was ringing up a wedge of
beech, hence the drop to a 16” bar and it seems a lot better / happier.
Posted

Speed up torque down but resistance will also be down. I don't want to run standard 3/8 chain on the 260, which is already borderline on that saw. It's 3/8picco i.e. 3/8lo-pro. 

 

I got a 3003 pattern 16" 3/8 picco bar. 1.3mm. Hence the desire to push faster.

 

As the 8t rims are like hens teeth I'll stick to a 7t but with full chisel. Should rip hard for a smallish saw.

  • Like 2

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