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Hydraulic log splitter valve problem


spandit
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Bought a tractor mounted log splitter (don't know what make) and it didn't come with the right hoses to connect the valve up (Gresen 550) so I jerry rigged it into my loader valve block and it works fine, although a nuisance to have to walk round to the loader valves each time to split a log.

 

Ordered the necessary hoses and adaptors which arrived yesterday but can't get it to work. I think the issue is that the valve is possibly for a single acting cylinder, despite having two outlet ports, because said ports are connected together internally (green arrow) so moving the lever in either direction causes fluid flow from both outlets (with no load on them, fluid flows out of them depending on valve position, i.e. lever up, top outlet, lever down, bottom outlet, lever neutral, no flow - you should see my barn floor!). Have I just been stiffed and given any old valve that he had lying around or is there a way to block this port? It's not threaded but I could tap a metal rod into it20171025_101655.thumb.jpg.9ad762747577dac1936c662cd712f094.jpg

log_splitter.jpg

Edited by spandit
Added picture of splitter
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A quick google of that valve brings up references to a tractor loader so it is likely that its for a single acting system. 

 

Pluging it would be a fools errand, the pressure would just male even more mess on your barn floor, which may not be a bad thing because that oil looks like it could do with changing :D 

 

Flowfit is a good place for a replacement

 

 

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Not sure why plugging the port would make more mess but yes, I'll probably get this from FlowFit:

 

https://www.flowfitonline.com/log-splitter-kits/log-splitter-parts/flowfit-1-bank-80-lmin-hydraulic-log-splitter-control-valve-with-auto-kick-out-zz005421

 

That oil was brand new in 1970, most of it is coming out of various places anyway so it's getting changed continuously :D

 

Once I get all my hydraulics working properly and can stop the various leaks, I'll be putting fresh oil in - believe it or not, this was a whole 25l container of new oil but there was enough crap stored elsewhere in the system that it has all turned milky.

 

I've asked the eBay seller for a partial refund. Unfortunately I paid cash on collection so don't have the PayPal protection. At least it wasn't vast money

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1 hour ago, spandit said:

Not sure why plugging the port would make more mess

 

Once I get all my hydraulics working properly and can stop the various leaks, I'll be putting fresh oil in - believe it or not, this was a whole 25l container of new oil but there was enough crap stored elsewhere in the system that it has all turned milky.

 

Well of you mean tap a tap in, that's going to get you covered in oil, if you mean tap it and screw a rod in, you might not end up wearing the oil but "modifying" spools can have some weird and wonderful back pressure effects and you would still only have a single acting valve.

 

Its the water that makes the oil milky, if you can let the tank stand for a while, the water will settle at the bottom of the tank and you can drain it off.

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I ignored your advice and made up a part to plug the hole anyway...splitter_valve_plug.thumb.jpg.ae0c62b1f43db0e7375391dffe92c149.jpg

 

Couldn't then start the tractor and eventually found the negative battery terminal clamp had cracked and needs replacing. Holding the cable on with pliers I got it started and valve still doesn't work as you predicted! No great pools of oil, fortunately.

 

I'll be pumping some oil out to do some work on the hydraulics imminently so hopefully it will settle in the container and I can remove some of the water

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Don't buy the flowfit valve it's cheap rubbish

 

I will sell you a broken flowfit one if you like though :D

It works fine, just the cover on the end is broken, and it's had about a dozen different homemade handles as they don't last long

It would be very cheap though!!

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