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basilbrush
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I don't think they are they look different on the images on tinternet.. looks like you can buy a new carb 200t on ebay for about 20 quid don't know what they would be like though.

 

Ah-ha, 201 is a strato saw, no way the carbs are going to be the same then.

I'd go with blanking the accelerator piston circuit on the original carb then. Nothing to loose, you can always get a new carb later. ...

 

bmp01

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The 201 carb won't fit, sounds a bit like the L screw is a bit rich and the saw is picking up fuel and eventually flooding it.

 

It is possible that the choke flap is sticking half closed making the saw lumpy, had that before.

 

This is probably why I get so many of these saws in. It takes rebuilding a few before you find the fixes that make a real difference.

 

I personally don't block the pumps now as it does cause lag in the pickup - just my preference.

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I personally don't block the pumps now as it does cause lag in the pickup - just my preference.

 

Ok - you know better than me.

What's the alternative though if the accelerator piston and its drilling are scored?

-New piston and o ring is a temporary fix at best.

-I guess you could ream the drilling and make a bepoke oversize piston, actually that's quite realistic if you do loads of them.

-Or punt for replacement carb.... minefield - cost vs quality ...

 

bmp01

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Ok - you know better than me.

What's the alternative though if the accelerator piston and its drilling are scored?

-New piston and o ring is a temporary fix at best.

-I guess you could ream the drilling and make a bepoke oversize piston, actually that's quite realistic if you do loads of them.

-Or punt for replacement carb.... minefield - cost vs quality ...

 

bmp01

 

Nope - just inspect the piston that comes out and then swap out the o ring or piston and ring depending on wear. If it doesn't last, I then do the mod but generally a new pump kit sorts the issue.

 

I just like to try to get the carb working as was intended rather than work around the proper fix as you can get a hesitant pick up from the mod but do see it as a viable fix if the new pump fails quickly.

 

Ream and custom pump.....you having a laugh:sneaky2::001_tt2:

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Nope - just inspect the piston that comes out and then swap out the o ring or piston and ring depending on wear. If it doesn't last, I then do the mod but generally a new pump kit sorts the issue.

 

I just like to try to get the carb working as was intended rather than work around the proper fix as you can get a hesitant pick up from the mod but do see it as a viable fix if the new pump fails quickly.

 

Ream and custom pump.....you having a laugh:sneaky2::001_tt2:

 

Nope :001_tt2: hand reamer, just to remove scoring, so oversize by 0.2mm say, reamer cost insignificant over 10 carbs or more. Batch of pistons, in plastic not plated brass, fiver each.... even if they were 10 quid each, your still saving heaps over a new carb. No use to me though, every saw i look at is different !

 

Working accelerator pump might be as manufacturer intended but the whole arrangement is a bodge to allow lean idle for emissions purposes, isnt it? Fold in the amount of PITA engine behaviour you get when the thing inevitably misbehaves and I'm all for deleting it and run idle mixture to give good engine response.

My experience is over approx 10 carbs (various engines) so no way is it conclusive. Totally accept your point re MS200T engine response too.

 

bmp01

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Ok, so thanks to stubby pointing me in the right direction I traced the fault to the accelerator pump and decided to buy a new carb of the tinter net. Works fine and today I dismantled two large conifers with it no probs..... the carb cost £14.00 how long do you all think it will last ???

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Hello,

Glad you got it sorted. Did your diagnosis include taking the old carb apart ? Accelerator piston scored and O ring undersize ?

 

No ideas about the life of new carb. Does that have a accel pump in it?

 

bmp01

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