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Echo cs501sx siezed!


Chris Day
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Keep it ! :biggrin:

 

Just to clear--never a problem, should have said never a failure.

I rebuilt or cleaned the carburetor at least six times and replaced fuel line and air filter. I occasionally gave the saw a thorough cleaning.

Yes it's a keeper, just don't use it much anymore.

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Just to clear--never a problem, should have said never a failure.

I rebuilt or cleaned the carburetor at least six times and replaced fuel line and air filter. I occasionally gave the saw a thorough cleaning.

Yes it's a keeper, just don't use it much anymore.

Thought for a minute you had Triggers saw.

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Arbtalk mobile app

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It makes no sense to compare old saws to the new ones. Modern engines (ECII emission standard) burn nearly all fuel mix while old ones threw around 30% straight to exhaust. Those 30% did quite a bit of engine cooling and the engines were way less sensitive to all factors including oxygen amounts in the same volume of air. Needless to say ~27°C of temperature difference at the very same spot (mild climate summer/winter) means ~10% lean/rich mixture difference. There are only two ways to solve it - either periodically re-adjust the carb manually or slap on autotuning device. Both ways have their advantages and disadvantages but both are inevitable for full power and reliability.

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To be fair I've never touched the carb settings on any of my stuff. Just pick up from dealer and away we go. Maybe I need to buy a tacho and learn how to tune a two stroke properly!

 

No response from echo yet, i suspect a sample of the fuel in the tank is away for testing?

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. Maybe I need to buy a tacho and learn how to tune a two stroke properly!

 

This skill and tools would always get you the maximum power and reliability. From my personal experience - being in the forest without those tools feels a bit like driving on a long trip without spare wheel/foam kit with regular tyres :)

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This skill and tools would always get you the maximum power and reliability. From my personal experience - being in the forest without those tools feels a bit like driving on a long trip without spare wheel/foam kit with regular tyres :)

 

are tachos easy to use?? my main fear with my saws is them reving too high, so is i just a case of wack on the tacho rev n check reading or is there a lot more to it?

thanks carl

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are tachos easy to use?? my main fear with my saws is them reving too high, so is i just a case of wack on the tacho rev n check reading or is there a lot more to it?

thanks carl

 

So far from my experience both Yamabiko (Oppama/Echo/Husqvarna) and Stihl tachos were accurate. Stihl one has smaller digits and seems to refresh screen data quicker though Oppama ones refresh a tad slower but this together with bigger digits makes it a bit easier to read. Using it is dead simple - just place it near spark plug main lead.

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are tachos easy to use?? my main fear with my saws is them reving too high, so is i just a case of wack on the tacho rev n check reading or is there a lot more to it?

thanks carl

As Piston Skirt says they are dead easy to get a reading off. I've got an Oppama one off Ebay, works fine and accurate when tested against 2 other Tachos.

Essential kit IMO, saws aren't all supplied "tuned", a tacho will get you in the ballpark, limiter coils make accurate tuning solely by ear virtually impossible, but someone will doubtless disagree. (often a contentious issue, wily old woodsman vs scientific approach!There's some more views in this thread from knowledgeable forum folk.):thumbup:

 

Over revving is definitely an issue, my 390ESX was tuned very lean. Book figure max rpm 13500, I bottled out as the rpm approached 14000 and was still accelerating keenly. Adjusted richer and run hard but only in the cut/under load. I'm confident that both my current saw and blower had not been run or tuned by the dealer, both needed adjustment.

 

It's a fairly simple process, there's a pdf for Echo Carb adjustments and procedure in this thread.

Make sure that the saw is reasonably clean (plug/filters/exhaust/clutch cover not rammed with gunk), chain correctly tensionned and warmed up. No need to hold it WOT endlessly, a few seconds is all it takes...and don't get distracted by the tacho, you're still holding a high speed flesh muncher.

The acid test is that the saw is stable at idle, accelerates cleanly and develops power under load. Once you've run a few tank fulls through the tuned saw take a look at the plug as an indicator of whether the mix is about right. HTH

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