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Posted
Keep it ! :biggrin:

 

Just to clear--never a problem, should have said never a failure.

I rebuilt or cleaned the carburetor at least six times and replaced fuel line and air filter. I occasionally gave the saw a thorough cleaning.

Yes it's a keeper, just don't use it much anymore.

Posted
Just to clear--never a problem, should have said never a failure.

I rebuilt or cleaned the carburetor at least six times and replaced fuel line and air filter. I occasionally gave the saw a thorough cleaning.

Yes it's a keeper, just don't use it much anymore.

Thought for a minute you had Triggers saw.

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Arbtalk mobile app

Posted

It makes no sense to compare old saws to the new ones. Modern engines (ECII emission standard) burn nearly all fuel mix while old ones threw around 30% straight to exhaust. Those 30% did quite a bit of engine cooling and the engines were way less sensitive to all factors including oxygen amounts in the same volume of air. Needless to say ~27°C of temperature difference at the very same spot (mild climate summer/winter) means ~10% lean/rich mixture difference. There are only two ways to solve it - either periodically re-adjust the carb manually or slap on autotuning device. Both ways have their advantages and disadvantages but both are inevitable for full power and reliability.

Posted

To be fair I've never touched the carb settings on any of my stuff. Just pick up from dealer and away we go. Maybe I need to buy a tacho and learn how to tune a two stroke properly!

 

No response from echo yet, i suspect a sample of the fuel in the tank is away for testing?

Posted
. Maybe I need to buy a tacho and learn how to tune a two stroke properly!

 

This skill and tools would always get you the maximum power and reliability. From my personal experience - being in the forest without those tools feels a bit like driving on a long trip without spare wheel/foam kit with regular tyres :)

Posted
This skill and tools would always get you the maximum power and reliability. From my personal experience - being in the forest without those tools feels a bit like driving on a long trip without spare wheel/foam kit with regular tyres :)

 

are tachos easy to use?? my main fear with my saws is them reving too high, so is i just a case of wack on the tacho rev n check reading or is there a lot more to it?

thanks carl

Posted
are tachos easy to use?? my main fear with my saws is them reving too high, so is i just a case of wack on the tacho rev n check reading or is there a lot more to it?

thanks carl

 

So far from my experience both Yamabiko (Oppama/Echo/Husqvarna) and Stihl tachos were accurate. Stihl one has smaller digits and seems to refresh screen data quicker though Oppama ones refresh a tad slower but this together with bigger digits makes it a bit easier to read. Using it is dead simple - just place it near spark plug main lead.

Posted
are tachos easy to use?? my main fear with my saws is them reving too high, so is i just a case of wack on the tacho rev n check reading or is there a lot more to it?

thanks carl

As Piston Skirt says they are dead easy to get a reading off. I've got an Oppama one off Ebay, works fine and accurate when tested against 2 other Tachos.

Essential kit IMO, saws aren't all supplied "tuned", a tacho will get you in the ballpark, limiter coils make accurate tuning solely by ear virtually impossible, but someone will doubtless disagree. (often a contentious issue, wily old woodsman vs scientific approach!There's some more views in this thread from knowledgeable forum folk.):thumbup:

 

Over revving is definitely an issue, my 390ESX was tuned very lean. Book figure max rpm 13500, I bottled out as the rpm approached 14000 and was still accelerating keenly. Adjusted richer and run hard but only in the cut/under load. I'm confident that both my current saw and blower had not been run or tuned by the dealer, both needed adjustment.

 

It's a fairly simple process, there's a pdf for Echo Carb adjustments and procedure in this thread.

Make sure that the saw is reasonably clean (plug/filters/exhaust/clutch cover not rammed with gunk), chain correctly tensionned and warmed up. No need to hold it WOT endlessly, a few seconds is all it takes...and don't get distracted by the tacho, you're still holding a high speed flesh muncher.

The acid test is that the saw is stable at idle, accelerates cleanly and develops power under load. Once you've run a few tank fulls through the tuned saw take a look at the plug as an indicator of whether the mix is about right. HTH

Posted

cool thanks for the replies i will look into getting one seems straight forward enough to get a reading. could well save money in the long run.

thanks carl.

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