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I fycking hate the thing anyway. Heavy, loud bastard. Fcxk off. I want a 40 foot birch I can do with a zingy little 2511 and a packet of sweets.

Yep. That. I've probably just signed my 661's death warrant by putting the caged bearing in with some chain oil just now. I shit you not, the rollers were spinning freely before I lubed it and then bound up with the oil.

The Microbull grab with the hydraulic capstan on it still sounds like the bollocks to me. A shame they didn't catch on more. The controls are gash and the showroom is far less easy to get to than Chesterfield. Both surmountable problems. Someone must want a small machine on tracks.

My theory is that grease attracts and holds dirt, which causes bar nose failure.

It's as disjointed as telling the public to not hire groundwork contractors who also use JCBs to steal cashpoints out of walls.

Basically it can't comply to the European Normative Standard that splices are tested in accordance with. It might be a different story in other parts of the world. I'm not saying it's unsafe to climb on, it's just difficult to prove that it IS safe. Reach out to the supplier and ask if their splicer has been trained by Courant.

It's mainly a con I think. I worked with a bloke who leaned hard into compliance, the book, the manual etc. I remember watching him twat away a morning revving and idling a new saw. He greased the nose of Husky/Oregon bars. I'm convinced that's the beginning of the end of them because all he talked about was nose sprockets shitting themselves. Meanwhile plenty of bars (i.e. Stihl ones) that never see grease, still work.

I done a few checks in regards to what people have posted and it's not a sheared flywheel key as posted previously. I ordered a new ignition coil and aftermarket carburettor. This was simply for trial and error. I previously didn't mention that there was fuel leaking from the air filter housing (the air filters have been removed). I fitted the new coil and new carburettor. I changed the fuel pipe which leads to the the fuel filter in the tank as well as the fuel filter. Filled up with fresh fuel and it started for about a few seconds. There was still fuel coming out of the air filter. I looked at a few yo*t@be videos and seen a few comments about the metering valve and needle valve. Most of the comments mentioned that the new valves may not be as good as the original valves (bit baffled by this) so I decided to have a look at the original carburettor and I changed the new valves with the original ones. I couldn't see any difference. I refitted the old carburettor and now the saw starts but only with throttle applied. Still leaks fuel from the air filter. Could anyone advise on what to do next please?.

It was Excel Parking, or Vehicle Control Solutions (same firm). I haven't got the stamina for another round of that. I've had a few cancelled since by complaining to pub landlords.

Nobody has been brave enough to ask!

I bought a few grease nipples a few years ago to replace the torx bolts for my trimmers. Still haven't fitted them. Still haven't greased them.

Parking Eye, ELF. You're putting the big boys in their place one at a time. Who's next!

I'm not usually one to pass up an obvious innuendo but I'm about 2 pints away from comedy gold. I'll be patient.

@doobin greases hedgecutters in a novel and enticing way. Tell the other children how it's done, roobie doobie.

Saved a fortune in grease when you look at it like that

Begs the question, does it really need greasing? I personally don't bother. I think I've had one failed roller bearing in 15 years

Right. That's convinced me because the old one came out bone dry.

You may be on to something there. At this time of the year my workshop is full with stihl long reach trimmers with goosed gearboxes. For reference sake, there are two points to grease on all, maybe not all but most articulated hedge trimmers. The main gearbox and the one that no one does which costs them a lot of money is on top of the head, the bit that doesn't move. These get neglected and contaminated with water.

If you're local to me please don't being it in for repair. I've had a few machines in that have had used engine oil for chain oil. They either get picked up without me looking at them or get binned. The next down the line is veg oil machines!

It matters not what grease you use, it’s an open cage cage running on a very hot shaft, so it does not stay there very long, and much much quicker if you leave the saw idling for lengths of time.

Ruthless price! What were they selling new saws at!

I filled a long reach hedgecutter gearbox with chain oil about fifteen years ago and it still works fine.

Which oil or grease, tbh whatever you have to hand, chain oil is good enough ime. Most of the time they get a bit of a splat of bar oil anyway. What I usually do to install clutch springs is the hold the clutch down with my palm and use long nose pliers or a thin screwdriver to lever the spring against my thumb. The spring either pops into place or just hangs on the drum in which case you just slap it into place. Always refer to the manufactures directions, instructions or recommendations, etc, etc......

Woah, thanks for that detail, Joe. I had completely missed it, and maybe the supplied did as well. I'll ask them about it. I ordered from a reputable specialist dealer in Czech Republic. Unsure exactly who handles their splicing work. Additional detail from Courant in this Instragram post: I can't find that follow-up post, though.

Aren't you though....really?