K760 does not really suffer with much as long as it is mechanically sound ( not had concrete dust through it ) i would say the carb is flooding, if this is the case it would be a new carb, once they start to leak the needle seat will be worn and cannot be cured, do check the fuel filter in the tank as well.

Many thanks for your post.I have renewed the carb ,and all the filters have been replaced.

Have you checked the compression or viewed the piston through the exhaust port? Sounds like low compression to me. Most stone cutters are generally abused and stone dust isn't forgiving in bearings or the bore!

I don,t have the tools to check the compression, but would she fire up straight away with the throttle wide open if the compression was low?

Quite possibly. If the compression is through the floor, no but if the compression is on the low side, it may well fire cold and run then not restart when hot.

I would be looking at the compression and carb at first. I am guessing the saw won't start on the fast throttle start setting. This may be a poorly adjusted carb (low speed or idle), a carb issue (dirt, damaged parts), the choke not sealing correctly or a number of other carb related issues. Basically the carb isn't giving the saw enough fuel to start and that may be down to the carb, the compression or even a big air leak can cause it.

May be worth taking it to someone good at fixing kit. Generally a good one can tell in minutes if not seconds what the fault may be.

I'd pull the plug check the spark and if sparing OK put some fuel down plug hole if it fires and runs its fuel related if not somethi g more serious chuck on ebay spares or repair and just buy new the ts420 looks a good saw 

Jack 

23 minutes ago, Jwoodgardenmaintenance said:

I'd pull the plug check the spark and if sparing OK put some fuel down plug hole if it fires and runs its fuel related if not somethi g more serious chuck on ebay spares or repair and just buy new the ts420 looks a good saw 

 

Jack 

I've got the 420, cracking saw. I replaced it for a 400 that I reversed over... Don't ask!

1 minute ago, eggsarascal said:

I've got the 420, cracking saw. I replaced it for a 400 that I reversed over... Don't ask!

I used the new husky k770 oil guard absolutely terrible I prefer the old partner k750 brilliant saws and mechanically indestructible (unless you reverse over it??) the stihl ts410 is a really comftable saw to use loads of power and cuts perfects as with husky and makita they always seem to pull to the side which is a neusance the reason I like the ts420 is its 14" which is perfect for cutting 4" drainage pipes 

Now you've said that it could have been a 410 that I did the Transit job on, I take about as much notice of tool model numbers as a do car model numbers, none whatsoever. I do remember it being a costly bit of reversing though.

I always keep models as tools go missing around my area quite a lot and occasionally get my own tools offered back for £40-£50 with the seller not knowing they were mine to start with ??

Jack 

2 minutes ago, Jwoodgardenmaintenance said:

I always keep models as tools go missing around my area quite a lot and occasionally get my own tools offered back for £40-£50 with the seller not knowing they were mine to start with ??

 

Jack 

There in lays the sickener, 600 quid saws being sold for £40-£50. I'm not sure which winds me up more, the thieves nicking them or other tradesmen buying them.

4 minutes ago, eggsarascal said:

There in lays the sickener, 600 quid saws being sold for £40-£50. I'm not sure which winds me up more, the thieves nicking them or other tradesmen buying them.

I've no reason to buy them back insurance pays out and I get new I can always tell my gear when I first buy it I take the shrouds off the cylinder gets sprayed with blue line marker that's how I know there mine they get shoved on gumtree normally and sold for next to nothing and I've seen a few pro range gear on car boot sales with no stickers models or serial numbers ect unreal what gets sold at them markets