Muddy42

The Husqvarna balance XT is amazing. Its what Husqvarna supply for the heaviest brushcutters, so it spreads the weight well and is very comfortable. It adjusts for people of different height.

With practice I can cut grass neatly with a massive cc engine. For small areas you can use half revs but its not great for the engine long term. Try thinner string. With the bump head, try having the bump bit rubbing on the ground as a guide, but not too hard so more string comes out.

Bubble Wrap, Cellophane, Crock-Pot, Escalator, Frisbee, Hoover, Jacuzzi, Kleenex, Post-it Note, Styrofoam, Thermos, Tupperware

You are right to watch out for sharks like woodlands.co.uk Sometimes the ownership rights these people offer is very sketchy and your "plot" is in the middle of a much larger woodland block with no access. The price can vary hugely - £10k an acre used to be the rule, but commercial blocks or planning potential can boost the price. Plus proximity to towns and wealthy areas and good access will boost the amenity value for people like you. I think technically there is a limit on the number of night for a private campsite (60 days?) which should be plenty. It would be unusual but check for a restrictive covenant against overnight stays. There is a lot of discretionary costs that you can make - pruning, thinning, replanting etc. Compulsory costs would probably be limited to fencing and branches falling through fences, especially where the neighbours are livestock farmers. If access is shared there may be road repair costs. If the woodland is part of a grant scheme or accreditation, this will come with conditions. You'd want public liability insurance.

Thats what I think yes - speed and torque. The extra friction caused by pulling the chain round the extra 2 inches out and 2 inches on the return. Plus Im sure there are other factors. Heavier chain. Chain tension generally increases with longer bars to keep the chain tight, so more friction on the tip.

Also is the cable routing slack enough to handle going round corners? but not too slack that it catches on things?

If you have a multimeter, remove and test the glow plugs for resistance. Id check the fuel filter first and maybe flush it with solvent. If it needs replacing, whack a hole through it temporarily with a screw driver and carry on testing while you wait for a replacement. if you disconnect the fuel lines at various points, you should get decent squirts when you the engine is turned over.

Have you tested voltage and load on the battery? Are the battery connections clean? have you bled the fuel system to see if air is getting in or if fuel is reaching the injectors? Replace fuel filters? Id ohm test the glow plugs to see if they are working (should be low resistance). I presume you are pre-heating the glow plugs?

Its slow growing and dense, so lots of energy per volume. Its a great firewood once dry. However to your question, it doesn't split or dry quickly.

Great. Personally having used a few pro battery saws, I don't find them equivalent in power to a 50cc petrol saw, in spite of the fact this is what they claim.

50 cc saw (stihl ms261) and 13 inch bar for most of the work I do - storm clearance. 70cc for felling larger trees, logging or when I get the first saw stuck! 120cc for blocking up "unsplittable" logs on the ground

Hot fire or not, every stove manual ever written will tell you not to burn wet wood. A neighbour of mine managed to totally block his new cowl and flue in one season, requiring replacement at some cost. Chimney fires can destroy your flue liner, chimney pot etc or even worse case burn your house down. Its simply not worth gambling here!

Gabriel, You'd be amazed but yes my Esse stove smokes back into the room when lighting, refilling or when the stove is dying down. I have tried every trick in the book over three years, but its not really helped. Its an old drafty house with a cold flue and flue downdraft problems. Older non ecodesign stoves have massive air intakes and quickly send masses of heat up the chimney and continue to send lots of heat up the chimney (so called "inefficiency") so that this is never an issue. Defra, Hetas and european test standards have designed Ecodesign for a more "efficient" burn, better air quality but a lower flue temperature. But this only works in perfect lab conditions or a modern house that is warm anyway. Its a great business for stove installers with the need for more scafolding, insulation beads and anti downdraft cowls. But I also think the stove design doesn't help. It doesn't have enough potential air intake and the airwash and door are too close to the top of the stove. Its far too easy for smoke to spill out during lighting. I'm going to replace the stove soon.

I had the same problem with my one handed Makita DUC150 chainsaw. As above, I have sharpened the teeth until the gap to the rakers about 50% of how it started, about 10 thousandths now.

Air should come through the carb outlet pipe. If you think about it that's what the purge bulb does, suck fuel from the carb so it gets replaced with fresh fuel. You should not be able to blow back into the carb through the outlet valve. Are you 100% sure the fuel pump side of the carb is oriented correctly (valves next to the metal of the carb then gasket) and that the metering diaphram is not upside down? Is the needle valve seating properly?