Muddy42

compression is a peak value, so you could still have a ring leak or a stuck valve etc. even the oil itself can contribute to the compression.

Yes, there are a few things that could go cause excess fuel when you cleaned out the carb, or reassembled the choke or governor. BUT I would have thought a carb fuel issue would affect both cylinders equally. I would try soaking the piston. If all else fails, replacing the engine will require removal anyway, so you might aswell give this a go and tackle the crankcase side. It takes time, but technically is not that difficult. Just remember the order that everything goes in and the timing marks.

I am definitely no expert, but I did successfully rebuild my first B&S v twin last summer. I am a bit unclear about what you have been doing. You but you can strip down a v twin from two directions: 1. underneath the engine you can remove the single crankcase cover. this accesses a large area of sump, oil and the single camshaft, compression release, timed cogs etc. 2. Behind each of the two cylinders. Taking off the two valve covers accesses the valves and rockers etc. Then you can again go behind each of these to get to each of the two heads and pistons where the combustion happens. which route have you taken?

I am so confused by this thread! Sometimes my 120cc Stihl 088 struggles to mill knotty hardwood with a 36 inch bar and goes slow. A 65cc husky, all battery saws and any mains electric chainsaw will not pull a conventional 36 inch chainsaw bar. Bandsaw-type sawmills work with smaller motors because the bar is narrower.

bummer. Assuming you are not using the mower anytime soon, why not try soaking the pistons, which might free up stuck rings? You can try various light oils sea foam or even petrol itself. squirt fluid through the spark plug holes, soak, rotate, suck out the fluid, repeat with another mystery oil, etc.

Its my eyesight that is the limiting factor with 1/4" chain!

Personally I thing you need two chargers for 12v batteries. - A small smart charger 1 to 5A to trickle charge and top up relatively healthy batteries. - For big 12v batteries (tractors etc.) or really depleted batteries you need an old fashioned large capacity non-smart charger. Mine is so old I can't read the label to see what the amperage is anymore, but it really wakes up old batteries. but I try not to leave it on for too long.

Was the battery left outside or very cold by any chance? Maybe try bringing into the warmth for a while before charging.

not jesting but its difficult to prove either way unless you can time travel? Lifespan depends on hours of use, style of use, maintenance and a bit of chance. I used to just go for pro saws but even they can fail. Ive recently realised that there is value in having a small cheap saw as part of the collection. I can lend it out and if it fails it doesnt matter as much. I too had a 028 that lasted 20 years until there was an issue with the crank and seals, and an 088 that is still going but I think larger engines always tend to last longer. Im not convinced today’s MS saws are as tough as the 0-somethings , but we’ll see. My piston is already a bit scored after 3 years and Ive had to replace a lot of parts.

More power but also more weight. If you are only cutting small stuff, 35cc is ideal. also will it last 5 times as long? i have owned both. The 161 lasted 5 years, im not sure my 261 will last 25 years.

I find the professional versus consumer saw debate is a tricky one. If just looking at price when new say a Stihl MS162 is £160 versus a Stihl MS261 at £850 (professional saw). You could buy 5 of them for the same price. If you are not good at maintenance, replacing parts and/or wreak a consumer saw, there is a lot less to cry about.

i'll give it a miss then. Nothing drives me mad than proprietary equipment that you can't work on. New cars and dealer only stuff but also I lived in a house for a while where the previous owners burglar alarm company refused to give me the admin code and tried to put me on an annual contract just for changing batteries and vacuuming dust out of the sensors. I won in the end, the previous owner was under contract not me.

I prefer putting a carb kit in a genuine carbs to non-genuine replacement. You could try that. Does the tunning change when you tilt the machine in different positions? That and erratic revving could be an air leak. I'd P&V test.

Not sure, it made no sense. I immediately modified it. Maybe everything was meant to be held in the supplied vice?

There is no right or wrong answer with bar lengths but that sounds a bit extreme. I can't remember if the 365 is 65 or 70 is CC, but the old rule of dividing the cc by 3 is about right, which would be 23, so it sounds like you are already pushing it at 28 inches. Personally for a 36 inch bar id go for a 90 or 120 cc saw. Also unless you are milling, there are very few situations in the UK where 36 inch bars are essential. If you are milling, this is even tougher for the saw and I would still to a 120 cc saw for a 36 inch bar.