Muddy42

wouldn't long thin lengths be ideal for turning into wood chip for someones biomass boiler? Or do you not have enough volume?

wouldn't long thin lengths be ideal for turning into wood chip for someones biomass boiler?

Ive heard the Sherpas and ASs are good. The Grillo looks like an Iseki, maybe the Grillo is a knock off. Ive just managed to raise the deck a bit on the Grillo, by moving a 'shut off' so the blades can turn in the travel position. The highest standard height setting was 90cm, which was too high and I was hitting too much and digging into the soil.

So I have put a few hours on the Grillo. It cuts great. It doesn't clog and stall like the Bolens did (which I was really asking too much of it to become a rough cut mower). It just smashes through everything, rocks and stumps included. I like the simplicity of being able to remove and sharpen the blade tips. - It needs choke to start even when warm, so I think some carb cleaning might be helpful. - I'm going to raise the deck a bit. I'm hitting too much even on the highest setting.

and pull the bit out regularly to release the chips and sap.

Personally What gear did your father have? Personally I wouldn't think it was a viable business now without a tractor/ forwarder, large log processor, a loader and room to dry >1000 crates (some of it can be outside, some under cover.

Thanks Eric. Ive also bought a second hand Grillo Climber 9.22. My thinking was this had the largest engine without being 4WD. 4WD would have been nice, but these are more expensive and there are more parts to go wrong. I havn't felt I have needed the extra traction in the past, but maybe I will regret this. For some reason the tyres have been shifted from tractor tyres to turf tyres, so I will probably return it to aggressive tractor tyres that will help with the traction. Regarding your electrical issues, you might try a 'contact spray' to control the oxidization - the kind that you use to protect trailer electrics? Alternatively I have bypassed all the safety systems in various mowers. I haven't looked at the Grillo's electrics yet, but normally you have one circuit running to the ignition key that needs to be closed by the various safety switches to work. Normally the safety circuit is a different colour from the black/red of the earth/positive - yellow or blue. A bit of continuity testing with an electrical tester will normally work this out. Let me know if you want me to figure out how the safety switches work on mine?

Thanks. Yes the others have newer B&S engines which I understand are not perfect. Brushcutters or rough cut mowers have thicker blades, off road tyres, do not collect and are generally built to take more abuse.

Does that brass metal vent thing work? meaning does it allow air in and stop (too much) fuel escaping. It depends how precious you want to be, but its just an air vent, you could try gluing that fibrous thing back in. Clean everything with narrow wire and carb cleaner.

I have but the thing is I wouldn't use it "for anything else" just mowing.

Castle no. Its an old market garden, where they used to sell plants, fruit and veg. Flat varied ground but very fertile alluvial soil so the grass and weeds grow like stink. I also do paid work for a few people who can no longer maintain their gardens or use a chainsaw - so think of knee high grass with buried obstacles. I like fixing older machines and keeping them going.

So my ancient Bolens ride on has finally had to be retired with a cloud of issues - camshaft, gasket leaks, clutch, rust, broken spindles. I am looking for people's experience with the various ride on brushcutters out there. They all seam remarkably similar. Generally I am looking at the model with the largest engine in the range that is not 4WD. I could get 4WD if second hand, but the new 4WD ones seem to be more expensive. On the face of it 4WD would mean a few more parts to go wrong. - Orec Rabbit RM952 - Grillo Climber 9.22 - Etesia Attila 98 Budget of £5k if second hand. The new ones are about £10k. I'm not adverse to new either. And before anyone else suggests alternatives, I have an ATV flail mower for the really rough stuff, 50cc strimmer and a normal collecting rotary mower for lawns. This is for quite specific applications, tight access and under orchard trees. Thanks in advance.

Purge bulbs can look bad from the outside, but inside they are fine. I'd just disconnect the pipe that returns to the carb and pump fuel through it for a while. Then run. Check everything for cracks and air leaks.

Purge bulbs are pretty easy to replace, just make sure you get the lines back in the right order. Regarding the bar oil leak, to see if all parts are there, you are best to check the assembly diagram online for your model of saw. Also get the saw and bar spotlessly clean and check that the face plate is flat and sealing properly. Confirm its the right type of bar and correct number of chain links for the bar. Also check that the bar oil holes line up - a good technique is to make paper or cardboard copies of the bar

Sorry I am not quite sure what you have replaced already? Have you bought OEM part number 1129 350 5850 "Tank Vent for Stihl 020T, 020" (photo below)? Buy this and everything should become clear. This part comes as three separate parts, which get combined and fitted together. Your top photo looks like the middle metal part of 1129 350 585. Your next photo looks like the innards for the plastic part on the left of the photo for 1129 350 585.