Tomthetree

I am travelling around the north island of New Zealand October 14th onwards looking for work as a freelance climber. I have my own climbing kit and PPE and I have been climbing for 11 years. I am looking for between 1-5 days work at a time please message me on here thanks!

yea thanks they have everything i need jsut wondered if anyone had a second hand one for sale a little cheaper thanks

After this book by Hirons and Thomas, please DM me

they also come with longer screws

best thing is to buy 'kiwi klimber spacers'. they are just a piece of aluminium that slots between the gaff and the shank which gives you some more room without having to use the long gaffs. they fit the distels fine

After the recall last year has anyone started receiving their replacements? I am waiting and haven't heard much from DMM recently

Does anyolne have experience with Crispi boots Crispi Forst GTX Chainsaw Boots - Honey Brothers Haix Protector Forest Black HONEYBROS.COM Haix Protector Forest - Black from the UK's leading Arborist supply company, Honey Brothers tree surgery and arbourist supplies trusted around the world

Kit doesnt need to have a CE mark to pass loler. If your loler person knows the law in detail they will know they can pass kit without a CE mark if its 'fit for purpose' which the RRP is. Any non CE kit needs to be lolered straight away instead of after 6 months from new I have a non CE RRP and non CE ropes that have loler certificates This was all told to me by the loler guy

I have the locking one and you need a bigger than expected load to lower something easily. Small limbs often dont come down with the locking one. I got it thinking id use it loads for small stuff but the stuff i was expecting to use it for is too light and then stuff that is ideal for it i have usually prefered to use a conventional system for. It has a pretty narrow window where it is great. It is easier to lower lighter stuff from higher up the tree as there is less rope weight on the backside of the device so if the piece doesnt want to come down, you as the climber can take over and it will get it going. I use 12mm sirius Also it is great if you want to lower from a mewp bucket. I have had my rope in a bag in the bucket of the mewp and you could lower by yourself or if there are 2 of you in the mewp they can help. This method is great as it minimises the clutter. Mewp + rigging + capstan + someone on the capstan can get abit cluterred Overall I dont use it anywhere near as much as i thought. I wont get another one but its handy sometimes to have in my kit. If you do get one id say get the lighter pulley one For small stuff to lower you can beat natural crotch or a rigging ring. Thats my experience anyway 🤘

A slightly thicker option would be any of the Yale 11.7 ropes such as blue tongue which are all the same construction as blaze but slightly thicker

24 strand double braid ropes such as Yale blue tongue or cougar blue are more hardwiring than the 32 or 48 strand kernmantle ropes the double braid ropes are roughly 50/50 core and sheath dependant ropes the kernmantle ropes are core dependent with an abrasion resistant cover. as the strand count increases, the diameter of each strand decreases which reduces the abrasion resistance a great double braid for srt is Yale blaze or Samson velocity

I have a Mk2 550 and I use it for exactly the sameas the OP. Small stuff on the ground and i bought it so i could have a light ground saw in the tree for stems and its also been great for crane jobs 18inch bar .325 pitch and 058 gauge and it runs really well, i keep the air filter really clean and its great!

what are experienced climbers with all saws and rigging in edinburgh area charging if anyone knows?

Any advice on what fid set to buy? About to start learning to splice trex hollow braid of all diameters. I have seen Selma fid set. Is that any good? also what needle and thread do I need to lock stitch? Thanks

I am looking for some slightly larger inner spikes for my 550xp mk2 the standard ones are really poor I can’t get the spike in when cutting leaning trees or thicker bark are the dimensions exactly the same as the mark 1?