CDMR
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Everything posted by CDMR
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I am in southern Bucks so that would be a bit of a schlep but thanks for the offer
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Whereabouts is it? I have a chainsaw mill that could do with some exercise if it's not too far and I am not a million miles from Steve.
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I am in awe of your positivity and wish you as much good luck as possible to minimise this dreadful blow. Stay strong.
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I run a 661 with a 36" lo-pro bar and it can struggle on a full width cut in harder wood so I would think you may struggle with a 461 and about a bhp less. Hopefully someone who has tried it will be along. Personally I hand sharpen but I don't mill every day or on a day rate otherwise I might have been tempted to the darkside. If you are mainly working in woodland and away from the boundary your risk of hitting metal should be a bit lower which works wonders for chain longevity.
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I had a play with casting pewter in wood to fill knot holes in some free carved cedar bowls. It works pretty well and turns a disaster into a feature but it takes a bit of getting right. The main problem is that it tends to shrink a fair bit so you need to ensure the cavity is flared at both sides to stop it falling out when it cools. It does melt on a gas stove though which is handy.
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The combination of last sentence and signature did make I laugh.
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Depending on the type of cedar, how about some for draws and wardrobes as it is a natural moth repellant. So similar cut but not featheredge and quarter sawn where possible. Just a thought.
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I'm in Cryers Hill currently but currently looking for a yard for a mill, storage and a kiln but it wont (hopefully) be too far away. I'd be very happy to rent out space in it once it is up and running.
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Not been killed in the rush thus far. I was planning on building one fairly soon. I may just have to accelerate that plan.
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Does anybody have some space in their kiln over the next couple of months for some 2" Sycamore and some Cedar slabs? I can't be specific on quantities as yet as I am awaiting client decisions but am hoping it's around 300bf. It would be great to find a reliable kiln drying supplier. I am based outside High Wycombe, would sort all the transport and am happy to either undertake or help with the stacking.
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Another vote for Wordpress. Mine is hosted on GoDaddy. I'll let you judge if you think it looks professional. It was fairly simple to set up myself and I'm not really very IT savvy.
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It seals the end grain and stops the wood from drying unevenly, causing splits and deformation.
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Gotcha. Good thought. Will look at that too. A carb rebuild sounds on the cards though as soon as the bench is free.
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Sorry, AV?
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Investigated fuel pick-up issues but all seems fine. Before I play 'find the bit of the carb that pinged across the workshop', any other thoughts?
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There is a school of thought that you should use the same wood for the sticker as the wood you are seasoning. I don't see why it would work but it does seem to make a difference on some woods that are prone to discolouration from the stickers such as Cedar and Sycamore. Sorry, bit OT.
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Good shouts. I'll have a look at them but it was brimmed so not hopeful. It's also instantaneous so as it tilts the revs drop off straight away. You can almost play tunes with it.
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I have an old 44cc Ryobi that works fine when its horizontal but as soon as you angle it nose down it loses power. Any thoughts as to how to solve? (Buy a decent saw is not an option for the time being and this one has served me well for a while.)
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Thanks spudulike. I'll pass on the CScope but take the advice.
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I've just finished milling a Lime tree that was outside what transpires to have been a farriers. It looks like the farrier would bang a few nails into the tree then shoe the horse by the tree, pulling the nails from the tree as he went. The nails were all at a similar height and on one side of the tree. Obviously some got left behind until lucky old me, or rather some of the teeth on my 36" bar found them. I have been using a small metal detector designed for checking timber before it goes through a planer but it doesn't 'see' very far into the wood so thought I might invest in something better. It should pay for itself in saved chains and files. Any recommendations as to kit and/or ways of working around the problem of metal?
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If you mount them so they warp convex they will deflect the plank above. This will put more pressure on the fixing and risk the boards coming loose. If they are concave a gap is created but the water would just drip off further away from the wall. FWIW I'd go concave.
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But apart from the Walnut, what did they ever do for us?
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How beautiful. I would debate the phrase 'tediously cutting through wood' though. Bit contentious round these parts.
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There is a company called Swedex that do the full range. No idea of quality but seem considerably cheaper.
