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lux

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Posts posted by lux

  1. Anyone on here able to supply cleft post and rail ? The stock from my local AVS is consistently rubbish. The ends of the rails and the mortises always require fettling which is a massive waste of time on site. A lot of the post are very twisted.

    Spoke to another local producer but he was double the cost of AVS.

    I’m

    Based in Haslemere, Surrey / W Sussex border. Drop me a message if you might be able to help.

     

    Cheers

  2. I agree with Mick and Big J. This guy sounds lame but if you can’t replace him at the moment suck it up for now and choose your time when it suits you to let him go.
    If he is an employee surely he has a contract or he should do. Everything he has done will be breeching it. In which case record what’s been done and give him a written warning in the first instance.
    If he’s not employed and is actually casual but regular labour just replace him when it suits you.
    Blowing up about these things Is often unproductive. On the plus side to blowing up at least you won’t need to take him home that day ......

  3. In theory it will certainly help. My knowledge only comes from investigating what other agencies have done in their research thus far but having gone on the pests and disease walk around at the arb show the information cascaded down from that certainly rings true with the visible representation in my woodland.
    If you coppiced the ash and we’re thorough in clearing the area of branch and leaf my money would be that the regrowth on your ash would be healthier. How long that vitality goes on for given The extent of the disease and that spores are airborne in the spread of the disease is anyone’s guess. Coppicing them and giving them a half chance must be better than nothing and possibly. loosing them I’d say.

    • Like 1
  4. I’ve got 10 acres that is probably 60 to 70 percent ash. Lots of die back.
    Leaf litter is a big problem as chalara remains in the petiole and as then will cycle back into the tree. There is no correlation in die back in the crown to any sort of chalara based damage at the roots so you only need to be concerned about falling dead wood etc. If you have a honey fungus present in the location it will attack the trees weekend by chalara so basal inspections are still important.
    I have deliberately let some pollarded ash lapse. They were pollarded by the previous owner of the property and I’ve been here nearly 4 years now. The lapsed pollards couldn’t look healthier but the rest of the wood is all suffering. My assumption is it’s linked to the lack of leaf litter due to the pollard.
    For me it’s just a case of working on trees near my house which pose risk. As for the woodland part of the garden I let nature take its course and deal with what comes which typically means clearing them after they fall.
    I did investigate grants for replanting but you need a minimum of 12 acres to be eligible for the grant.

  5. It's arrived!!!!!!!!


    IMG_5622.thumb.jpg.c180cdb334ab4cc0dc1c4dde7aaea2fd.jpgIMG_5624.thumb.jpg.d42363feb479bbcf6bc8c9df857af8d0.jpgIMG_5626.thumb.jpg.f3589c362841dff5350d1554e2e6532c.jpgIMG_5628.thumb.jpg.ba4a14216a942150c7dc03233ed1e72d.jpg

    The latest logosol sawmill!!!
    The F2+
    [emoji3][emoji3][emoji3][emoji3][emoji3]
    Watch this space
    [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

    I’ll be interested to see this. [emoji106]
  6. Hello! Thank you for getting back to me! It would be great if you could fill out my survey- It's trying to look more at how private land owners have chosen to deal with the disease and the main influences behind any management plans they have put in place so size doesn't really matter!
    Thank you for the offer of field work, though hopefully if I collect enough survey responses I shouldn't need to do any site work!
    Many thanks!

    No problem. I’ll get that survey done.
    I’d be interested to see other landowners takes on it.
    My local authority is just felling ash everywhere as that’s, in their opinion, the best and cheapest strategy. [emoji107]
  7. Hello! Would it at all be possible if people could fill out my dissertation survey which is looking at how private woodland owners and managers are dealing with ash dieback and the main influences regarding management plans for infected Ash. I would really appreciate it!
    Many thanks
    https://rau.onlinesurveys.ac.uk/chalara-survey

    Hello Hanah

    I’m not sure my plot constitutes a big enough example but my house has about 10 acres of ground, 5 of which are designated as ancient woodland that is predominantly old ash coppice.
    Sadly I have a lot of chalara present
    If you think feedback from this is useful I’ll fill in the survey for you. Should you wish to use the site for any field work etc for your study you are most welcome.
  8. I've got an Alpine Magnum I would let go for £1000 if anyone wants it?
    Comes with a new set of teeth. I just don't seem to use it these days as my 20hp Rayco fits through a 29" gap.
    Magnum is a good tool with a Husky 3120 running it. Bloody thirsty though!
    I am in Suffolk.
    SG

    Will yours fit onto a stihl ? I’ve got a couple of 660s it could be used on.
  9. The Dosko 200-6h is very worthy in my opinion. They now have 500 series Greenteeth. To convert an old model over with fresh flywheel its really cheap and they are animals. 1 man lift onto a pickup and they take up very little space so lost time over say a 13hp Rayco is off set by the fact its one visit to site (if you have a smaller pickup). If truck space and man power are plentiful, go 13hp type machines, if not buy the little Dosko. 
    Only snag can be its light weight pulling it into the stump as you grind.

    I like dosko. I’ve been using the 27 Hp for years.
    That said their 13 hp machine is useless on the basis it’s too heavy to lift easily and is heavy to push on anything but flat ground.
    I didn’t know they were still selling the little machine. Dosko is now the danequip variation on the full size machine.
    • Like 1
  10. Those standard teeth are silly money aren’t they.
    From what I’ve seen you need to increase clearance to allow 700 green teeth. There is a full conversion kit for rock machinery grinders but it doubles the cost of the grinder ! I’d imagine you’d have to be very accurate if redrilling the existing wheel otherwise it will shake itself to bits.

  11. Access is quite key. At present I use nothing smaller than a 27 hp danequip which in some heavily landscaped gardens is just cumbersome. Not impossible but just awkward and often overkill. If the mini grinders are reasonable I’d buy one to make life easier but if they are just no good then I’d stay status quo.

  12. I’m considering a mini stump grinder. A lot of the time the usual grinder is overkill and either means lost space on the back of a van or towing an extra trailer to site.

    There are numerous small grinders that are an easy two man lift and fold down so I could pop in in the back of my hilux. They all look similar so are probably the same machine sold by different retailers. Lumag etc. Usually 6/7 Hp ish.

     

    Anyone got one or used one? Are they worth adding to the line up or just a bit naff in use ?

     

    Thanks in advance

  13. That saw will have ample power for the job especially as it’s been ported. It’s most likely to be something very simple like how you are applying pressure to the saw and mill as it cuts. Very little forward pressure is required on larger cuts. Experiment as you use it and find out what’s best and comfortable for you.
    You can buy little winch kits for a mill but I would say before purchasing one it’s best to get the feel of using the mill without one. Just a bit of trial and error as you go I’d say. It’s what learnings about.
    You can always look at rob d’ website. Chainsaw bars. There is more than likely a video on there that covers mill set up and chain tension. I run mine a little slacker than normal but not slipping about as that will create other problems.

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