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Literally all the time. I'm in Bath though, and every garden is on a slope.

The welds have started cracking. Both.

This is how I got going with SRT.

We recently replaced an older non-pro 12ft version with a pro version. The old one was much lighter and wore out. The new one is beefier, and should therefore last longer. I don't know about beef levels on the new non-pro version.

In case it's useful to someone else; mine's that one too.

My Sherpa manual says every 200 hours or half-yearly. Either way, I bought the machine second-hand. I figure it can't hurt to replace, then guesstimate 200 hours from there. Thanks for checking the filter type! Airline powered vacuum extractor... like this? KATSU Manual Pneumatic Oil Extractor Pump 6.5 L Fluid Evacuator Motor Engine Oil Change Petrol Fuel Transfer Vacuum Suction Pump with 4 Probes for Cars Motorbikes Marine : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK KATSU Manual Pneumatic Oil Extractor Pump 6.5 L Fluid Evacuator Motor Engine Oil Change Petrol Fuel Transfer Vacuum Suction Pump with 4 Probes for Cars Motorbikes... I have an airline, £54 sounds like a bargain compared to tidying up the almighty mess.

Also really depends on if you have an attachment on, and which one. I load mine forward on an ifor flatbed trailer with 8' ramps. I stand on the back more often than not. Sometimes raise the grapple to move the weight further out and make it more front heavy. I would only contemplate reversing it up without an attachment on.

Back to oil change on the Sherpa. Anybody work out a good method to catch the oil out of the drain plug (which sits literally about a fag paper above the Sherpa floor) without making an almighty mess and half the oil going underneath the counterweight? Obvs the counterweight is heavy and an arse to remove. Also, what's the spec of the hydraulic filter that wants replacing every 6 months according to the manual? And where to get one?

Oil change on the Sherpa Agri... The Sherpa manual gives almost no detail on engine oil change other than that it obvs needs it. The GX390 Honda manual talks about engine oil and reduction case oil. The Sherpa manual doesn't mention reduction case oil. The engine itself has what looks like two drain plugs either side of the engine, one of which is unusable because it's so close to the red sherpa bodywork. It also has two oil level access points, again on either side of the crank case. One is alu, and has a dipstick, the other black plastic without dipstick. I drained the oil, and filled it to halfway up the dipstick on the alu filler. I'm assuming that's right, and there is no reduction case to worry about? Also, 10W30 as per Honda manual or 10W40 as per Sherpa manual? Does it even matter?

I bought a Ryobi 1/2" impact wrench to make changing wheels more efficient, and torque mine up to one and a half ooga-doogas. Think the guy I bought it off mentioned 80Nm, but I can't be arsed getting my torque wrench out after impact wrenching the nuts on.

A bit late with my reply, and not really helping you, but I have three sets of wheels. One wide agri, one wide grass pattern, and one narrow with aggressive agri. I change them all the time, preferring grass when I have the width and it's dry enough so they give me enough traction. My narrow tyres are absolutely awful to use, their only advantage is enabling use of the Sherpa when you have to get through a narrow gate. I bought a Ryobi 1/2 impact gun; it takes less than 5 minutes to swap. Not wanting to slag off your setup, but your tyres look like the worst of all worlds: they look like they'll still churn up (wet) grass, but don't offer enough traction when it's wet. I've been amazed at how much traction, and how little damage, my grass pattern tyres make on sodden grass.

Sherpa continuing to be extremely useful. Tricky reverse for the 4x4s? Use the Sherpa. Log too heavy for Sherpa to lift? Put it on the arb trolley and push it around with the Sherpa. Short sling between the AT handles and the S to create a pivot point. Also works by grabbing the AT below the handles. Working on the bank of a quarry. The climber is 20ft up a tree, and level with where the wood and brash need to end up. Pulley in the Ash on the bank, Sherpa pulls everything up; easy day. Rakings made the tarp too heavy? Drag it to the chipper with the Sherpa.

Silicone spray worked a treat. No more squeaky bushes. Thanks!

It's fine on two wheeled trailers / chippers, it's on double axle jobs that you need a more delicate touch. I can make it work for now. It needs to earn me some money before I spend more on it! I'm getting quite load creaking when I lift or tilt. I'm assuming it's coming from the bushes on the lifting arm pivot points, which don't have grease points on my machine. Is this normal? Anything to worrry about / fix?

A high lift to get stuff in there though if you have to do it by hand.