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roys

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Posts posted by roys

  1. 1 hour ago, eggsarascal said:

    Tripped over last night leaving my mates house, wouldn’t mind but I hadn’t had a drink because I was driving back, five hours up the hospital, one wrist in plaster and a cracking black eye from face planting my self. 

    Oh man, don’t think that is what is meant when they say do a break fall.

    only had a plastercast on once, when it came off my wrist and hand after 6 weeks it looked like it belonged to someone else, all strength and muscle gone, it soons build back up but it did surprise me.

    Speedy recovery eggs.

  2. I can 2nd the Charnwood being a great stove, I have been using a 16b multifuel for about 18 years, last year was the 1st part I had to change, a plate at the back of the grate think it was about £60, so it’s doing good touch wood.

    @Alycidonare the 16b’s still made or do they have a direct replacement, just thinking if it it die catastrophicallywhat would I replace it with as it does all my domestic hot water and central heating ?

  3. Is there only certain trees that will get TPO’d, for example would you only get a TPO on a native tree like an oak but not on a non native like a sycamore or leylandi, fully understand there is other criteria, but just wondering if she phoned up the tree officer and said they want a tpo on a sycamore he would immediately say it doesn’t meet criteria without looking any further?

  4. 23 hours ago, Will C said:

    Any chance of any more info of the electrolytes is set up and processes? I understand the basic principles but looks usefull to know more about. 

    Certainly. You will need:

    soda crystals, I get mine in Tescos in the washing aisle, wee green bag, cheap as chips

    DC power pack, I use an old CB radio one, 240VAC in 12VDC out, an old fashioned basic battery charger will do as well, fancy clever chargers won’t work, the power pack needs to be able to put out roughly 12V DC and at least about 5A. I have measured it and it draws about 2.5A.

    Lump of mild steel, not painted, galvanised or chromed just some plain old bits of mild steel, I use some bits of flat bar I was practicing welding on so it measures about 150mm by 100mm, drill a hole in a corner and fit a nut and bolt size not important maybe 4 or 5 or 6mm

    Bucket filled with water high enough to cover item needing cleaned.

    couple of bits of wire anything from 1mm to 6mm sq will be perfect.

    Put about 1/2 cup of crystals into the water and give it a stir.

    Using the nut and Bolt in the corner or the mild steel connect one end of a bit of wire to it, connect the other end to Positve on power pack.

    with the other bit of wire somehow connect it to the the piece needing cleaned, the other end to Negative on power pack.

    put item needing cleaned and lump of mild steel in bucket, make sure they don’t touch.

    switch on and you should see tiny bubbles forming very quickly then within 30mins you will see nowt due to brown scum forming on top of water. Leave it to do it’s stuff for 5 to 8 hours, take out wash of in clean water, dry then rub with something like a Scotchbrite pad, a light oil and jobs a good un.

    Precautions, well ventilated area as I believe hydrogen gas is given off, certainly goes with a bang and showers shitey water everywhere when you arse about with a lit cocktail stick, ask me how I know.

    Addition: sometimes I connect up a 2nd piece of sacrificial mild steel to the positive if the bit need cleaned is big or has a few faces, did a vice recently put it in the middle of bucket then one bit of MS at 12 o’clock position in bucket and one piece at 6.

    The stuff left over in bucket is fairly harmless as it is just water, washing crystals and some rust scum. I just pour it down drain.

    Crystals act as an electrolyte to conduct the electric .

    • Like 6
    • Thanks 2
  5. On 15/02/2024 at 15:16, roys said:

    Look what I found in the woods today. No not the steel rule.PXL_20240215_141255373.thumb.jpg.007a30101b5228c4c6495742a6842d64.jpg

    Spent a bit of time on the bill hook clean up today, 5 hours electrolysis, then reground the two cutting edges, then burnished it, not sure if I am happy with the pattenation finish or to go for a smoother finish, which might ruin the “Made in England” and “10 in” stamping.

    9DAADEE8-9711-409D-AE9C-E531D7E94989.jpeg

    • Like 4
  6. 3 hours ago, openspaceman said:

    Professionally installed with battery sufficient for storing a winter day's worth of electricity worked out at £2k/kW for her, she is in a particularly good position for Solar PV and produces about 50% more than my similarly sized (4kW original and 1800W DIY addition) in the year. If I were buying again I would have a bigger battery to cover my worst day's demand. I don't see much point going bigger than that because off peak charging covers you for dull days. What is interesting to me is that her Solis hybrid inverter does not allow her to charge to a set % state of charge. The reason this is desirable is that you need to enter the day with enough room in the battery to absorb any solar PV but still have enough to cover the evening demand until the next offpeak slot if it is a dull day.

     

    The economics if you have an EV are something like:-

     

    Peak rate 31p/kWh

    Offpeak rate 9p/kWh

    Battery amortisation say 7p/kWh

    Charge-discharge loses 20%

     

    So using the battery to avoid peak rate costs 9p/.8+7p=18.75p so a saving of 12.25p/kWh by using battery to avoid peak rates.

     

    ...and what has this to do with wood burning stoves being banned?

     

     

    Hope you don’t mind me pitching in, trying to understand your system as I am I think wanting to do something similar.

    If I understand correctly your original 4kW system is probably 10 to 12 years old and getting a FIT payment. You have since added a 1.8kW system. My question is how have you combined them without affecting your FIT contract but still be grid tied and using the extra energy generated?

    Apologies for being nosey but it professional interest and apologies for thread derail.

     

  7. 13 minutes ago, dan blocker said:

    Just curious as to why you’ve chosen to put your sling so high up when  the tree your using as an anchor would be stronger if it was  around the base and the winch would be easier to operate if closer to the ground🤔

    ‘Tis a good question, I was using it to tension 55m of 12mm wire rope for a zip line so it is at that height to give it the correct droop height at the end of the run, just for us big kids and the little ones to play on.

    • Like 2
  8. 52 minutes ago, maybelateron said:

    Yes I use a tyre to store my tirfor cable in. I also have two other tyres with steel extension cables with eyes at both ends. Having taken the tirfor to a job with the wrong tyre/cable I learnt to check carefully when loading up for the job!

    Ohhh that wouldn’t be a good day.

  9. You won’t regret getting one either a Tirfor or the clone I have both, they have saved me many a time because as well as the tree stuff it has pulled quad bikes, loaders and pickup trucks out of the mud, it also pulled a transit out of a ditch, and I use it for tensioning a zip line. It is the 1.6t ones I use, and probably use it once or twice a month.

  10. I also found a motorbike front tyre works for me as storage method for the wire rope, there is a technique for putting it into and removing it from the tyre without dealing with loads of kinks. Which is basically rolling the tyre to remove the rope.

    • Like 6
    • Thanks 1

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