green heart

If it's in a meadow situation, then some trampling/grazing animals should be a useful natural control. Alternatively, regular rolling/mowing or a very focussed spot-application of Glyphosate based herbicide, with a sticky adjuvent, applied almost to run-off. Selective herbicides aren't usually any use for controlling 'simple plants' like moss or mares tail, so full marks if you can get good results using depoitox. I'll have to try it, out of curiosity! Also, don't use Depitox on the riverside.

I was surprised to learn some years ago that Ash and Hazel were also used to make English long-bows. A bow maker actually purchased some cleft Ash from me, in preference to my Yew !? Though this was all twenty years ago, before Ash die-back was a thing.

As a 10' tipper owner, I'd probably agree with going for the 12' on balance. But bear in mind: when you're using a land-rover to tow a 12' x 6' trailer on busy narrow lanes, the trailer will be wider than the land-rover, I think?

Holly lays very well -but in the winter months . I've never layed any in summer, but if I absolutely HAD to lay it in summer, then I'd be pulling off most of the leaves to reduce transpiration losses? This would be an expensive, prickly time-consuming job -hence leaving it till autumn..

We've layed hedges for a couple of decades and I'd only lay them between October and March, due to brittle stems and nesting birds. That said, it's -sometimes- possible to get some reasonable results with smaller, supple, shaded pleachers, if it's essential and you are very careful. If you're unfamiliar with hedge laying however, then just wait until October!

Ps A close up of the buds/leaves would be very useful

Looks a little similar to a very tall/large Azalea, or that type of thing.. I've no idea, obviously -but definitely the wrong bark for Lilac. Sorry I can't help

Ancient and very unremarkable 1964 vintage. Raised in tiny old Cheshire village. Persuaded by parents to follow my interests in electronics/robotics rather than (more interesting) forestry. FC were laying people off for fun, at the time. Made redundant from my control system/panel designing job, at age 21. Promptly started a Landscape and Treework business, inspired by older role-models..Compulsory VAT registered within 2 years. Quit most landscape works and expanded into Conservation contracting and L.A. working, etc. Survived a good hang-glider crash but have persisted with various other rash/unsuitable outdoor pursuit activities.. despite becoming a Dad. Covid hit our workload very hard.. Still love working/climbing, even if I'm shit, compared with youngsters! No telly for 20 years Red front door. Er, too embarrassed to admit details of current car tho !

Hmm.. at $150 dollars a month for a 'licence', that just smells a bit like some sort of pyramid selling scheme to me.. I thought that kind of nonsense was outlawed?

Why not use an arb trolley with some mesh sides, or just hire/buy a teeny chipper with wheelie bins? Could be less hassle? -Or get some of those lightweight 8x4 black correx sheets that builders use, providing there's no breeze...

Yes, the GTA40/M18 are much the same weight, but physically smaller/less clunky on the harness and in the hand ? They excell in lighter pruning work, particularly the ergonomic GTA26 and DUC150, (though with a lower torque/speed). Also they are cheaper, and there's a whole load of other tools that can use the same batteries, obviously.. You're welcome to try mine out, but I'm in Ches/Manchester .

I'm reasonably sure it's down to the characteristics of the motor Milwaukee have chosen: a low-ish RPM unit, but with a fair high torque.. So therefore they selected a chain with more cutters, to get the 'work rate' back up, if that makes sense? That's my guess, anyway. It's a very different experience from using a 201/2511, but much like 5thelement experience, I'm a convert, where pruning jobs are concerned. I will get round to testing a 'normal' chain on the M18 and report back, but it'll be a few weeks yet..

No, it was Wednesday 12th March. I don't know how others on here have managed to view a video of the accident... but it would be good to grasp and share any potential learnings, from Mick and Steve's more informed comments.. Can one of you share a link here, perhaps ?

So, assuming no further leaning/gound movement can be detected by earlier suggestions made here, then how about proposing a light thin and 1-3m reduction, only to the upper growth tips? This might be repeated say, every 3-4 years, to maintain a reduced wind sale resistance. It obviously retains the screening that your client seems to value, and provides a likely source of a repeat contract. I've assumed from the photos, that there's easy access for a 20m tracked cherry picker -maybe just a long day's work? -Where do I send my bill, for consultation, please ?

Just a heads up about a very poorly Welsh Climber, who recently survived a 30' fall from a tree, who was then apparently immediately crushed, whilst lying on the ground by the same tree.. 😮 I don't know the poor guy, or anything beyond the meagre details that appear in the press, but something clearly went very wrong, with what appears to be a mature hung-up roadside Beech tree. I'll try and find out more and post here. He'll be out of action for a few months or maybe longer; there is a just-giving page set up for him . I've tried various means to post a link up here, without success so far -both my braincells must be very tired.. in the meantime just Google: 'Jack Jones tree climbing accident '