njtimber

I know of a Holzmann vs 25/4PM for sale from a joinery near us that is down sizeing I think this is a four sided planer in one pass.

husky 340, bought it new in 1999, never let me down, originally bought for fencing work,ie ending rails,pointing posts etc , but that saw has cut many tons of firewood,felled and processed,ended and scarfed rails,pointed posts and anything else ive needed it to, goes pretty much everywhere with me, cracking little 40cc saw

Have to agree with you for a little odd job saw the 340 is exellent ,I've had mine a long time the only problem is that I have just broken the side casing with the starter cord drum in it .Don't suppose you know if you can still get spares ?.

Still 460 with an 8 spline ring sprocket and a 20 inch bar lovely old girl. I'll be sad when it dies and I have no idea what to replace it with, perhaps I will have to get it re-built.

I've never driven a komatsu , I know an old chap who drove a 20 ton komatsu when they were yellow and blue, he liked the old machine.

Yes I currently use a kubota ,years ago I drove a Hitachi for my old boss . Just wondering what other people rate and if there are any to avoid.

Hello just wanting opinions on the preferred makes of excavators for forest work ,I currently run an orange one but want to know what other people rate as good machines as I am looking to replace it. Cost of spares,oil flow for attachments etc etc

Hi all,

Hope all you guys and gals are doing well.Id like some opinions on mini medical kits worn on the harness.

Firstly do you have one on your harness?

Which one do you prefer?

And whats inside.

The reason im asking is our employer wants too renew our kits and wants us to recommend the best kit for us to wear,size constraints and contents etc.

We use treemotion lights and petzl sequoia harnessess and currently have the stein medi kit on them.Some of us have the blood coagulent granules.

Any advice,opinions greatly appreciated.

A company down our way have developed a arb medical kit that clips on to your harness, they consulted a ex marine trained in medical field work and large trauma wounds (he now operates as a climber) . Have a look at their website see what you think (they do postage if it helps) it's Tree kit and they are based at Hurn near Bournemouth.

Stihl extendable pole pruner ,not sure what the current models are but I run 2 older ones and we prune young hardwoods regularly . Good bits of kit in my opinion better than the ones that have fix in extension sections. They will cope with limbs up to 6 inch as long as you adopt appropriate pruning cuts.

Yes gallop should do it ,might need a couple of applications.

I stupidly lent my Husqvarna 61 to a pal as I don't use it much, when I got it back the bar and chain was in an awful state, he'd been using the saw to chop out tree roots in the ground!

I put the chain on the grinder to restore the cutting edge and cleaned the bar up but when I tried it today for the first time the saw won't cut straight, curving to the left badly.

I checked the cutters and they are sharp and equal on both sides but when I apply pressure to the side of the chain it moves alot, also the chain links seems to be worn at the base where it rubs the bar more on one side than the other. I haven't checked yet whether one side rail of the bar is more worn than the other as well.

I will get a new chain as I can't see a solution to resolve the uneven wear on the base of the links but I was hoping to salvage the bar.

 

So my questions are:

Is it acceptable to close up the bar groove? (It's a laminated bar).

 

 

 

If not where's the cheapest place for a replacement bar, most probably an Oregon Pro-lite 20".

Try new saw chains .Co. UK based at Hurn near Bournemouth will send it by post to you .if your not sure of bar options ring mark and he will tell you what you can put on it .also his prices are very reasonable so ask about a chain for it ,I think you will find you end up buying both . Hope you get it sorted.

Approach contractor's in the area you decide to live in and offer your services to them . See if they will give you a trial day to establish whether your a good worker once you have proven yourself you may be able to pick up more work ,gaining experience of working practices. It's good to work with several different contractors gleening different techniques from each one , then begin to advertise for your own jobs whilst continuing to sub contract to others. Over a period of a few years your private work will pick up and if you get any bigger jobs you will have established relation's with other contractors that you can call on for help. Just be patient and work hard and slowly your business will provide you with a decent livable wage,just be prepared to take on any work that comes in because you never know what it may lead to.

I know its easy for me to say but i would call his bluff, he is tryng to bully you and its not nice being bullied, its bwd for your soul and in this case your pocket, where else is he going to get 40 quid a werk gor an old shed, string him along for now saying you will think about it, just to give you time to find somewhere else, then when you find somewhere else you have a choice either to stay put or move to another place, who knows you might find somewhere else that is cheaper and with more services, all is not lost, good luck.

Thanks for the advice , I have made enquiries with other estate's and received quite a positive response. I think you are right something good can come from a bad situation, sometimes a change in location brings new opportunities. Must admit though I did feel like I had been kicked in the nuts,but the response of people I have approached has made me feel much better.

We are looking into refresher training in first aid and have been advised to do a first aid + F course apparently this deals with larger wounds more typical to forest injuries. I haven't booked one yet but will look into it soon.

Yes the farma (if it is like ours ) will serve you well.

The reason for increasing it is that in their view it is worth a fortune per square foot, it could be if it was secure, lockable with a concrete floor ,power, water and a roof without holes in it. I think they are comparing it to an industrial unit on a business park,which in its current condition it would take a serious investment to bring it up to this level.

We plant the trees and roll the bracken between the rows twice a season until the trees are established . (Using a narrow tractor)

£40 a week

Thanks for the reply £40 a week is what I would consider reasonable for what I currently have ( it is slightly more than I currently pay ) but substantiality less than I have just been asked for. Time to move I think, pain in the arse to move but I simply can't afford the ridiculous increase they are suggesting.

Between Salisbury and blandford

After 21 yrs of employed then self employed service our local estate has decided to significantly raise the rent (to a ridiculously unaffordable level ) on our small forestry yard. I am trying to establish what the going rates for a small out door yard (approx 100 foot square ) and an agricultural barn ( in rough order) approx 30 ft by 60ft gravel floor ,one open side ,no services (electric water etc) . Any input on approximate costs per month would be very helpful thanks nick.

It's a huxtable saw bench with a hydrax splitter will cope with any size wood . You can either ring it to size with the chainsaw and then split it ,or cut it into billet lengths split it and bench it to size,all the branch wood just bench up . Ideal for doing whole trees where they fall. As far as price goes I would want £850 for it your welcome to try it out if you want I'm in Dorset . Nick 07867 971 473

I've got a 3 point linkage sawbench with a splitter mounted on it for sale (splitter runs off tractor hydraulics) .The good thing about it I that you can hook up one bit of kit and do both jobs

Have you looked at the Farma range,they do 3 point link cranes we have a trailer crane of theirs and it has served us well.

I run both artic and front steer alpines and never take the artic on slope work they roll far easier than front steers which tend to slide

They don't roll you steer into the tilt which stops it . You can cross mow slopes or mow up and down the gradient turning on the slope ,as long as you have the bottle to stay in the seat

I've got a double drum 6t in working order but I am down on the south coast ,it's probably too far away for you, if your interested I could send you pictures . It could do with a new coat of paint though.

if your buying an artic be very careful on slopes, its really easy to get in a mess, if you are in woodlands with even a gentle slope I would stick with a rigid version, especially if your skidding stuff with it or running heavy 3pl attachments

Don't understand what your saying ?. I run a holder and a bcs articulated tractor they are far safer on slopes after all that is the terrain they are buit for, you are more likely to roll a rigid tractor on a slope. As for heavy equipment on the back we run a merrier crusher with roller and felling frame on the bcs which is a very heavy unit and it handles it easily. A rigid tractor will never out perform a artic tractor on slope work !!!