njtimber

You really should select the best willow for what you want (as said), just planting random types could be a complete waste of time.

The right one will be many times better than non specific types. We grew quite a few different ones some years back, the differences between them was unbelievable.

 

Having said that, standard crack willow will produce log size stuff very quick.

I thought growing crack was illegal. ....probably quite profitable though.

Is there no proper old school agricultural drainers near u?

 

Most old drainer folk esp from that area would probably have a good idea wot it is and best way to fix it without any need for fancy hydrologists etc.

 

Got a couple of old guys in my area that seem to have xray vison there that good at spotting/guessing where the draind run before they dig down to them.

Firstly a hydrologist is completely different from a hydrogeologist ,and if the problem occurs in several places and is due to pore pressure digging a drain will probably achieve nothing except denting your bank balance and upsetting your client. And as for spotting and guessing ,would you hire in expensive equipment on a guess ? Because you could soon make yourself look a right pratt. As for those old guys are you sure they are spotting and guessing you might find they have done their homework before coming on site,after all no point getting older if you don't get wiser,and a wise man never gives away the secret of his wisdom.

I'm not a geologist, but I believe that greensand is green due to unoxodised iron ,when it reaches the surface it oxidises and turns brown. If water passes through it under ground this will also oxidise it. You get upper greensand and lower greensand , the lower greensand tends to be more silty and more grey in colour.

Pore pressure in the lower greensand layer ,save yourself a fortune on failed projects and talk to a hydrogeologist, they will need a grid reference . Pm me if you want Helens number she is one of the best you will find by a mile. Nick

A client has a lawn that`s on quite a steep hill which is predominantly hard ground that is high and dry. There are several wet spots of around a metre square that are so soft you could end up waist deep if you stood there long enough, unless he drives his mower over these area`s flat out he ends up digging it out. I need to engineer a solution so am looking for ideas, has anyone here had any experience of this? clock the vid.

 

Bob

 

 

Are you over chalk ? And what is the location of the site? I might know someone who could shed some light on this, I will call them tomorrow and ask . Tha

N series because of the swivel seat. A series are stockman tractors with annoyingly small cabs. Personally I think the A series are cheaply built and therefore can get quite expensive after 2,000 hours in repairs etc. If you could find a 100 to 120 hp 100 series or 50 series with low is hours this would be a far wiser buy than an A series. Of course you will have to guard the tank etc on a newer N series. Buy the best you can afford with as low hours as possible, cheap tractors = expensive repair bills.From my experience steer clear of the A series, you buy one you will regret it. We have an old 6400 ,great wood tractor with an integral metal fuel tank ,swivel seat (good for forwarding ) 100 hp 4 cylinder so short bonnet and quite manoverable.My friend has a N 121 (guarded up) and he is very pleased with it. Good luck nick.

You ought to bump this thread occasionally to keep bringing it to people's attention. Thanks nick.

Oh ,steel for rigging ,aluminium for climbing.

That's ridiculous.

 

How is the end of the rigging line attached then?

Timber hitch ,may be old fashioned but it's worked well for 20 years on big stuff.

I seem to be struggling to find a pure plant insurance policy.

 

Most want to sell a complete package or wont cover as I dont do normal Arb work or wont cover for fire risk as its near a fire / firewood.

 

Suggestions?

Try trust insurance

Hello Guys.

Brought with me a 6'/70"/190DL bar of unknown manufacture from Australia to Denmark. The nosewheel is now pretty worn, and new jobs are comming in, where my 40" bar is too short. Any idea, where i can obtain a new 70" bar for a 880 Stihl here in Europe?

Greetings Ben

Check out cannon super bars ,Google it. I have one on an 880, very pleased with it .

Talk to rdb logs he rebuilt my old one,he could be a good sources of information. Thanks nick

I'm looking for a cheap firewood processor.

 

It can be PTO or engine powered but not electric.

 

Not to fussy re make or model.

 

Pref no VAT as its for my personal use.

 

Smaller ones preferred due to costs.

I've got a pto saw bench with a mounted hydraulic splitter which fits the 3 pt linkage and plug the hydraulics in . I would sell it for £850.00 or near offer ,its an older unit but unbreakable and will deal with any size wood. If your interested I could send a picture . Thanks nick 07867 971 473.

Hello

 

i don't want info and pictures i want to buy one, so was wondering if anyone had one for sale

 

Tom

Hello tom I have a 85 hp bcs dual steer volcan for sale with a merri crusher with felling frame and roller , very good condition ,under 500 hrs selling due to end of contract on a Christmas tree farm which is now going to be franchised out. Hours may rise because we are still occasionally using it. If your interested give me a call on 07867 971 473 or home 01725 552 172 if I don't answer leave a message and I will call you back (the signal around here is rubbish ) Thanks nick

I've got a kubota kx41-2 had it for 10 yrs apart from replacing the tracks ,bucket pins and bushes,and servicing it regularly ,it's never let me down . Service is quick and simple all the filters are easy to get at. Plenty of power. Well worth getting a thumb or 3+2 grab. Always found Digbits and local kubota agent very helpful. If I was buying it would be kubota or takeuchi.

Have you tried pastor ,a broadleaf specific weedkiller. If you want a really potent killer you can mix it with roundup but it will kill everything. ( assuming they haven't banned pastor recently as well )

Thanks for the replies, ive spoken to c j cox their price seems good and they know what theyre talking about too. Hope to get a good deal out of them if they supply the tractor too.

A friend of mine ,les bought a tractor from them and had it guarded prior to collection, he is very happy with it. I have had them service our 6400 and found them a good company to deal with. Good luck . Nick

Had a look at jensen ?

Hello rich ,Where's the loader ?

Thank you all for your replies and good advice. I always try and keep safety top of mind and keep my chain sharp (letting the saw do the work), swapping the chain after each tank of fuel. I have an Oregon bench grinder to maximise the sharpness of the chains I use and minimise the time it takes to sharpen them.

 

I am based in Ayrshire and have access to lots of mature hardwood trees. Haven't really spent much time with the 576 yet but will take it easy to start with. My plan is to use the 576 for felling and then cutting the larger rounds from the trunk and using the 550 for the branches and slimmer trunks.

 

My biggest concerns are the force of any kickback on a 576 as compared to my previous 345 and also the weight of it.

 

Thanks, John

Crosscutting is pretty straight forward, but felling larger hardwoods can be a bit more tricky ,assessing weight/lean etc deadwood/widow makers etc if you know some experienced cutters get as much information from them as possible about removing buttresses, bore cuts for leaners etc. And never work alone ,always have a first aid kit with large wound dressings ,hopefully you'll never need it. And a mobile phone for emergencies. As far as training goes it's good to have for a basic understanding of correct procedure and insurance purposes. The most important course you should attend is first aid. If your ever not sure about felling a particular tree ...walk away ...its stood there for years and a few more days until you get your head round it won't hurt. All the best nick

My holder is a pivot steer with a loader orchard growers need pivot steer to get up and down corresponding rows (we use ours for swiping between tree rows)

Stubby says he is 62 brush cutter says he isn't far behind that is my point they don't make them like they used to . They don't seem to have the same drive or work ethic these days.

I am in Dorset and could do with occasional help (depending on contracts ) from the right person. I say occasional but for the right person on a self employed basis I could put a lot of work in front of them as long as they were open to varied work.

If they are new to this sort of work then what needs doing might not be as obvious to them as it is to you. They might be bone idle, but they may just lack confidence and not want to get it wrong.

 

How do you brief cutters when they start working for you?

Belive it or not I am incredibly patient with new cutters and genrally work alongside them to help them with any uncertain situations . I have learnt this through having 7 trainees only 2 stuck it out 1 of them still works with me the other eventually went into carpentry and is bloody good at that too. (They were both not interested at school and into trouble but with guidance and reward for hard work they remained keen and have both done well ,self employed etc)

It's the lack of energy with the subbies I have had in recent years and going back to the truck to look at their phone every 5minutes ,they know what needs doing but I keep having to ask them to do it even when we have done the same operation repeatedly. I kept an eye on one guy recently left him alone after working alongside him for a week and in an entire day he used 2 and a half tank fills ,at the end of the day I asked him if he would be happy to pay someone for what he hadn't done all day . (Just for the record I still paid him for a full day) but what good is it if you have to babysit them all day. Good skilled labour is rare and should be rewarded accordingly.

Continuity of work in an area is a different matter.

Tbh the biggest barrier to someone hiring my skills is rates .

2 of us work within a 20 mile radius and never catch up with work admittedly you do have to be adaptable with a range of skills but I would not want to cut all day every day like we used to and I like planning it so we do a couple of cutting days followed by a easier day, fencing or hedge cutting etc. I do agree about rates /skill/experience commanding proper financial reward and I really hate being compared to inexperienced unproductive muppet operator's with day rates by stupid managers whom only look at cost not productivity.