Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Tallgrass

Member
  • Posts

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Tallgrass's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

  1. I'm covering a Tree Officer role at the moment and am receiving a large number of section 211 notices, and some TPO removal apps, due to claims of subsidence after 2018. I am receiving trial pit reports that detail clay soil, but do not establish a plasticity index. Often root samples are not found of the species of tree which is proposed for removal. Other causes of subsidence do not appear to be thoroughly ruled out, foundation types not discussed, and, especially relevant right now, there is zero mention of the extended dry conditions of the summer of 2018 which many of these claims relate to, and the influence that had on the soil shrinkage in general. It seems common sense, that in 2018 with the lack of rain, subsidence could occur even if there were no trees present, (but of course I only see the claims which propose a solution of vegetation management ie. blame the trees). My job is only to say (in the case of a section 211 notice) whether we (the LA) would object via placing a TPO on a tree. But in the case of TPO'd trees, I want to be sure the attribution of the cause of the subsidence as moisture extraction by the trees (as opposed to the extremely dry conditions) is correct. With section 211 notices, where a householder (or their insurance company) is notifying us of their intention to remove, or applying to have TPO'd trees removed from their neighbour's gardens - I am aware that if we do not object/grant, it could be contentious, especially if the insurance reports (Arb, Soil testing, Root testing, drainage etc) are not 100% conclusive (as I outline above. The 3rd party neighbour may not get to see all the reports, or even know an application/notice has gone in. (In our case the LA does upload reports provided onto the internet on the planning portal though - but how would a neighbour know to read them if not notified by the subsidence sufferer next door?). The first thing the neighbour hears is from the subsidence sufferer is 'We have permission to remove your trees'. In which case, the neighbour looks at the reports online and thinks "But my tree is tiny. 2018 was a really dry year, why doesn't their report mention that..." Arrrggghh. My life would be a lot easier if I didn't have such an overly developed sense of fairness, but I feel insurance assessors are lazy. They spot a tree, and then get an arb in to write a report to say 'remove the tree' because it's the cheapest solution. There is no thorough examination of other possible causes by an engineer etc. In one case I am looking at now there are 2 defective drains which have been leaking, closer to the point of subsidence (3-4m), than a semi-mature 10m ash (about 8m away in the neighbours garden, which is due for removal). Nothing in the report discounts that soil has been washed away in this area after years of leakage except to say 'the drain defects are considered to be outside of the area of the concern in regards to the building movement', nor evaluates the 2018 weather conditions I know I should look at the zone of influence too (NHBC), and in this case, that ash won't be there for long anyway, but my point is general. Is it worth me going back to insurers to highlight these areas missing from the reports? I have had one minor success where I got them to agree to a 30% crown reduction of a magnificent Liriodendron, rather than a full fell (though I know it's suggested CR might increase moisture uptake in subsequent years), but the elderly resident loved the tree, she won't last much longer (her daughter said), the insurance will still pay out, and we get to keep the tree in the conservation area. It might come back to bite me yet though, especially if we have more drought conditions as expected! And if the insurance companies do continue in this vein, despite climate change, we'll have no trees left in towns soon. Anyone else wading through this type of mud? Any thoughts? Feedback would be greatly appreciated.
  2. Thanks very much for your really clear response. Very helpful.
  3. Yes the underside is not right for an Inonotus. Thanks for your help. I'll look it up.
  4. Just looking for help with ID. I can only think this is Inonotus cuticularis, initially thought it might be Ganoderma lucidum but too velvety a top and distinctly stalkless. On a beech stump felled a few years ago due to Meripilus. If it is Inonotus cuticularis it's only the second time I've seen it in Sheffield in 5 years. Poor picture quality. Underside was creamy white pores (thought I took a pic). On a sidenote, is there anywhere left in the UK where Mycology can be studied as a principal subject e.g a degree?
  5. Reading this thread to try to assess the likelihood of polyporous (now known as cerioporous squamosus) creating extensive white rot decay on this sycamore. Great original post - thank you. This sycamore is a roadside veteran with a decay cavity at the base of one of the stems, the same stem which has polyporous on it at approx 2m height (right hand limb). I'm pretty convinced it will only be associated with dysfunctional tissue but.....it's next to a road. The same stem also has another small cavity high in the canopy. I intend to decay detect with the resistograph at the height of the polyporous to assess wood strength. Initially wasn't too worried but now I've seen your photos Raffle....I'm thinking again. At the very least a reduction to the limb in question, retaining the upper cavity habitat, might be required. Anyway it's a privately owned TPO'd tree so not up to me to do the work, but convince the owner to. Any feedback/thought would be greatly appreciated.
  6. Hi all, I'm currently speccing a job which involves the removal of trees growing out of historic monuments. We need to ensure no regrowth from cut stumps. I'm currently thinking that careful spot treatment with glyphosate, or the use of ecoplugs (very gently tapped in) will suffice, but does anyone have any experience of this area, or know who can advise on what herbicide might cause least damage to delicate stonework? Here's a pic of one of the monuments although it's hard to see the small self-sets. I don't know what type of stone we're working with but will try and find out. Also we're doing over winter before nesting so treating with glyphosate might not be so effective, and repeated treatment in a few months once the stumps are drying probably useless. Any pointers much appreciated. Thanks
  7. Hi all, In Sheffield we've noticed several previously healthy whitebeam and rowan which have put on small amounts of growth earlier this year and then recently the foliage has suddenly withered, browned and growth has stopped entirely, giving the appearance the tree is dead. We can only think it is some sort of bacterial infection (though no signs), or simply the dry period we had here around easter until recently. Has anyone else noticed this in their locality? We're wondering about leaving 1 to see if it will come back next year, but only if there's one in a safe location. Any thoughts? Thanks Leonie
  8. Gator bags used all over Stockholm with great success. Sadly we see way too much plant and run on housing development and planning officers are too stretched to enforce conditions.
  9. I have seen exactly the same type of failure here in Sheffield on Norway maple due to entirely girdled roots (although a bit of decay contributed here too). My theory is they are container grown trees, left too long before potting on, and then plonked in the ground without any root pruning.
  10. Ooops just saw the pic of the base. No decay on the side showing. The white staining looks like residue from an exudate.
  11. What's going on at the base? Is it surrounded by grass, soil, astroturf, paving etc. Is it getting enough water? It looks like it has been really heavily pruned and that may have been too much. It could also just be taking it's time to leaf up this year. Some trees are still quite late
  12. Apologies if there is already a thread on this. I've searched for 20 mins and can't find one and don't have a lot of spare time at work. Can anyone recommend any foliar feed by name or other treatments to simply give a relatively young tree with severe salt damage a boost/extra nutrients? I've also heard of this sugar/solution flushing. Considered a volcanic rock dust application, or simply a basic blood and bone application too. We're going to do all the usual things like covering the base of the tree in winter, reminding operatives about salt/run-off/snow piling etc. But if anyone has any basic info on a treatment, or past experience - it would help greatly to advise my colleagues. Many thanks
  13. Perhaps you mean what we used to call Phytopthera bleeding canker, but which we now know to be primaily casued by Pseudomonas? In any case I am going to pop out with a phytopthera testing kit now so see one way or another.
  14. This comment confuses me - do you mean pseudomonas (bleeding canker) or phytopthera? Not quite sure what you mean.

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.