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Charles Hey Arborist

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Posts posted by Charles Hey Arborist

  1. Looking to buy a decent splitter, mainly for use in the yard but being able to use it on site would be a bonus.

     

    Not sure if I should go for something like a 13T petrol Thor, or invest in a tractor and get something more like a 18/20t.

     

    The cheaper end of the tractor market looks like a minefield, I don't have much experience with tractors. A loader would be handy though...

     

    Any input appreciated

  2. What were you using Charles? We've been using Clark Forest SuperTack for the last couple of years. You get free delivery on a 25L container - makes a v good price:

     

    SuperTack Bio Chainsaw Oil (25 Litres) | Clark Forest

     

    I do occasionally get some issues with oiling (have to fiddle about with oiler settings) but I think this could be do do with the stuff thickening up a bit as weather cools. In two years we've only had to put petrol through one oiling system to clear it (thanks for the tip Russ!) and I'm really lame with my regularly cleaning. I've recently bought an air compressor but before that just shoved them back on shelf.

     

     

    That's the stuff I've used for about a year or so, and starting to see problems on saws that aren't used all the time... :confused1:

     

     

    Where do you get the rapeseed peter?

     

    Thanks

    C

  3. I've used it for years. Cost isn't an issue if you think about your health and the environment.

    I use to use stihl bio plus, never had any issues.

    But I switched to a cheaper brand for the last year or so, and a few saws that have been left on the shelf for a couple months have ended up all gunked up and the chain won't move. Not investigated yet but one seems to not be oiling at all (bar over heats after couple of cuts)

     

    I want to keep using bio, is all bio the same or should I go back to the stihl one? Or should I do something like clean out oil tank and clean bar/chain on the saws that don't get used daily?

     

    Thanks

    C

  4. Thanks, still got the hitch climber on but will swap to this Monday!

    LOVING certain aspects, not having to isolate a branch with throw line, and not worry about changing friction. Love hand ascenders and foot ascenders make it so easy on my body.

     

    Can't quite get my head around the perfect way of doing re directs, retrieve able tip ties and combos of the 2. Especially without having to work down then go back to your anchor before going to the ground.

     

    I want HAAS, and hitch is behaving at the moment but a mechanical device would make me happier (wish zigzag or something could be Used)

  5. Thanks for all the replies.

    I don't like risking hedge cuttings through the chipper, so currently get given to a farmer who probably owns a box of matches...

     

    Just looking for a more sustainable/Eco friendly way of dealing with it, I don't think buying a shredder for a small arborist gang is worthwhile, so either hire one once a month or get a waste firm in with a big skip or something seems best. Thanks.

    C

  6. How does everyone view C Mattheck's updated model of branch attachment?

     

    Can't find much info on it on the net but looks good to me.

     

    Looking into all sides this in my LV4 assignment today, very interesting.

     

    The point I find myself coming back to is:

    What is a branch attachment, and what is a fork attachment? Why didn't Duncan Slater differentiate between the 2?

  7.  

    There's a bypass in the stress control unit that bypasses the no stress- may help work out if the no stress or something else is at fault?

     

    Assuming it's the same ECU as the tw150 I'd try the stress control bypass, then at least rounds it down to either an electrical stress control problem, or an engine/hydraulic one.

     

    Recent experience with my tw150 makes me think either relay (srb500 but make sure it's a Lucas or hella brand not a cheap one) can be got from TW dealers, anywhere online or local motor parts place. If not ECU, but try the relay first as it's probably that and it's much much cheaper...

  8. That sounds like a hell of a collection!!! You have what I would like!!! Maybe in years to come! I think the landrover tipper is looking to be the clear winner at the moment. What is the best platform for a tipper? A hi cap or 110 pick up? Can't afford to buy a new chassis can direct from LR.

     

    Any landy with a chassis cab is the easiest place to start so you don't have to change any body panels, especially good if it's already 3500kg, some are 3050kg which is a bit of a pain.

     

    130s are more expensive but easier to keep the rear axle weight legal, especially if you have tool boxes. But tempting to put a big box on and fill it which would be well over weight. 3m3 is sensible I think. Other day was on an off road job and must have had 6m3 to drive across a wet field, was fine, but imagine it wouldn't have been nice at road speed! They're fine upto 60mph full to 3.5ton if they have decent suspension.

  9. As per other advise I'd check belts first, then maybe the flywheel speed sensor. Then assuming fuel filters are ok, I'd replace the relay, or see if it's a faulty ECU? (Just had to do my 2006 150 ECU apparently not uncommon on pre 2009 machines)

     

    There's a bypass in the stress control unit that bypasses the no stress- may help work out if the no stress or something else is at fault?

  10. It's not rude Charles but I use long reach hedge cutters because I can reach twice as high as with a short one, therefore reducing the ladder work by 50%, in other words trimming the hedge twice as fast.

     

    The ELH reduces the fatigue level considerably (& reduces the vibration in the hands) therefore I can keep trimming and only stop to refuel.

     

    I find a short one more powerful, and a 30" cut not 20", so run along the bottom with a short one then pick up a long one for the hard to reach bits!

    Also find getting a dead straight hedge easier with the longer blade, but maybe that's just practice.

  11. I'm 42 and wish if bought one a long time ago.

    I only use long reach hedge cutters and think I should have bought the Arborist model.

    Still, it was money seriously well spent.

     

    Sorry to sound rude, but maybe that's why you find it such hard work? I find short hedge cutters twice as fast as half as tiring on my upper body.

     

    Although I have to admit I bought an ELH about 3 months ago and never used it yet as the ground or laughed and said I was being a pansy...

  12. Thanks for all the replies.

    Not sure I like the look of the raptor, I'd never heard of them! But I'm willing to give anything a try. Also had a call from a mate about another 750kg machine that's worth a look.

     

    I do have my C+E, difficulty comes with other people driving my kit, much easier to find a 750kg driver!

     

    I can't make my mind up out of the following:

    1 good all round chipper, something like a 8" road tow.

    Keep my tw150 750kg chipper for the small jobs and lads to drive, and 1 big one for big jobs where I'll be there anyway. Would LOVE a bandit from global. Or something that might give different options, maybe an 8" tracked machine.

    Get one of the modern 750kg chippers and wait for getting a bigger one...

     

    Most of my work is small domestic stuff, and should think at least 4days a week a 750kg chipper is all I need. But when those big jobs and conifer removals come in it feels far too slow.

     

    Tough decision!

     

    Thanks.

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