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Charles Hey Arborist

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Posts posted by Charles Hey Arborist

  1. Hi Charles, the 372 is a tried and tested formulae that many I have done saws for really rate :thumbup:

     

    Yup, but the 576 needs some work anyway, the 372 already works ok! Lol

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Ps add to this thread- still love my 346xp and 200t spud did for me :D

     

     

    What about modifying chains etc on ported saws? Eg taking depth gauges down more? And different sprokets? Should my 346 have a different sproket to put the chain speed up? :/

  2. Type approval is proving to be a nightmare regarding the defender 130. IVA looks to be the only option (long waiting time for this) unless I can get land rover special vehicles to at the very least put something on the chassis (ie tipper or flatbed). Not to mention some of the prices ive been quoted so far to build the chip box!!

    Quite simply.....very very frustrating!!

     

    Think the bigger companies should be able to offer type approval, but they'll be the expensive prices!

     

    I'll pm you.

  3. What sort of quality are you looking for?.

     

    Do a search of the forum using the word splitter, use the search box on the right hand side about a quarter of the way down the page.

     

    Personally I would narrow the search down then ask the suppliers who has one local to you, then talk to them. Dealers doing demos usually pick perfect timber for the demo such as Ash and Silver Birch. When I bought a processor I found Fuelwood only to happy to set one up and demo it for me, fair way for you to travel though.

     

    A

    Thanks.

    Yeah I've had a good search. But not keen spending thousands on a bit of kit without having a good go.

     

    I like the look of Thor, the 13 magic would probably do me lovely, but can't have a hydraulic option only petrol powered or PTO. Friend has a hey rack. Be nice to have something a bit faster and more portable.

     

    I have contacted a few dealers but not much luck re getting to try before you buy!

     

    Charlie.

  4. Been trying to buy a splitter, but don't have much experience with various types. Any companies that will give a good demo, or rent one out for a week or something?

    Probably run off tractor hydraulics.

     

    Thanks

  5. Been porting a 390XP, if came in with a Golf piston that was badly scored so had some history of a repair gone wrong.

     

    New Meteor piston fitted, widened inlet and exhaust ports, modified transfers, lowered the squish and a muffler mod - it is going to be loud and has some decent compression now.

     

    Like a prat, I forgot to push the diaphragm on to the metering arm and wondered why I was getting an after Christmas workout trying to start it:001_rolleyes::lol:

     

    Fired up first time after having the carb apart, loud but good:thumbup:

     

    You never ported that395xp of mine did you? Mate keeps wanting me to ask as it cuts so much better now!

     

    I have a 576xpg (non auto tune I think) that keeps cutting out at the end of cuts, as soon as you let off the throttle. Does it more often when using half throttle. Really really annoying! Any ideas?

    It runs fine starts fine, idles fine. Dies immediately at the end of a cut, not die slowly. 5-6 pulls and it starts again.

     

    Know where I can get any big saws spud, 3120xp, 880 etc?

  6. Just moved some of it, a quick list of what's there, all sizes approximate, any ideas on where I might sell it would be appreciated.

     

    22 ash boards 2" thick. Approx 8' long. 14-22" wide ish. Some has lovely colouring.

    3 ash boards 4" thick, same width length. From the same tree as the less colourful ash above.

    5 oak boards 2" thick, 15 or 16' long I can't remember. 15"+ wide

    2 oak beams, 1 approx 6" square, 8 foot long. 1 8" square 10 foot long.

    Some semi splayed beech I played with when I got my Alaskan- 4x 2" boards, 2x 1" boards. 12-20" wide 8-9' long

  7. I've got some Ash, and a little Oak, and due to a change of circumstances I have to move it out of it's storage ASAP. Rather than keep moving it about it would be easier to sell it! Where's the best place to shift it quickly?

     

    It's mostly 2" boards cut with an Alaskan. Mostly 8 foot long I think.

  8. Lovely job as always there Mr Spud!

     

    Thanks once again for the 346, such a pleasure to use! Tempted to fix the heated handles now!

     

    I stretched my chainsaw repair skills this week: On my bench were 3 saws, new bar and chain on 2 of them, and a new clutch spring on another! :P

  9. wow, a few posters with some interest in this one!

     

    Crown, well the meripilus is (yes its merip!) is into the roots for sure, and well into them, the tree is in terminal decline, though only through transport dysfunction in the short term, reduction may assist the tree but for me, in THIS instance its not worth the effort, IMO, sometimes you just have to admit defeat.

     

    hen of the woods well it looks NOTHING like merip, if you have seen merip, youll know when it isnt! grifola is nowhere near as common as merip, not even on oak.

     

    Little is scientificaly known about the effects of meripilus on Oak, but I found one last week that was windblown and fruiting merip heavily, and the darker (pathogenic suspect) form, as apposed to the suspected lighter saprobic form.

     

    As for tim, and the beech. Well hang on, do you know what sylvatica means? and Oak is NOT a woodland tree, its natural home is the open structured pastureland, where it fairs much better, being a high light requiring species, thats why haloing has been perfected.

    Beech on the other hand, well the name for a start! also prefers a little shade, though not too much, but it doesnt like full sun, not like the oak and the ash anyways.

     

    Hate it when Tonys right... ;)

     

    Tree fell over in the recent winds. NOTHING solid left on the roots, all the major roots were soft enough to stick your finger in with no effort! Seems Merip on Q. cerris is not a good combo! Pic to follow.

  10. Realistically, if you need to get in to tight spots or up foot (or barrow) only tracks then you want everything as small and light as possible. The trailed bandsaws are only really applicable if you can drive them up to the log, or move the log to them.

     

    Have you seen the milling pictures/videos thread in the past couple of days? Burrell has posted some pictures of the tree we milled on Saturday - 4ft across and at times one of us had to stand on the collapsed fence to squash it down enough for clearance on the mill - I even ended up milling through the berberis at one end of the upper section there was so little space. I don't think this could be done with anything other than an Alaskan (nothing against other chainsaw mills - just a bit less portable).

     

    I do run a chainsaw driven bandsaw mill, which is excellent - there is a brief video of it on the same thread. The up side is that it gives the speed and narrow kerf of the bandsaw with the portability of the Alaskan. The down side is that the throat is only 14" so you do have to break down larger logs first (not too tricky) and that it can sometimes be temperamental like all band mills. The other down side is that they are only available in the US.

     

    Alec

     

    I thought your little chainsaw driven one was great :)

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