Ohlins

Click on the links to find part numbers etc for Defenders,along with other models. V.I.N. ID to confirm your model year etc. Clifton Scientific Text Services, the Netherlands This site I use most for ordering parts...very clear and detailed. Allbrit MG ROVER & Land Rover Ersatzteilkatalog Land Rover parts Landrover Parts Catalog (Click on lrparts.ru and then scroll to the bottom of the next page and click on 'Spare Parts Catalogue') Land Rover Workshop Manuals > LR3/Disco 3 > 501-19 Bumpers > Front Bumper Cover (Click on 'Other Land Rover Workshop Manuals' LHS Middle of page) Myton Automotive - Jaguar,Land Rover Parts | Jaguar,Land Rover Land Rover Parts - DEFENDER (LHS for list of different LR's) Defender, parts and spares at www.lrseries.com (Useful for parts images) Tyre Traders Tyre Conversion Calculator (Compare tyre sizes and diameters) Quality Land Rover Parts Spares and Accessories Online (Useful for calculating weights if posting second hand parts as each image has the weight of the part listed...also what models that part will fit and crossover to) I trust this will be of assistance for the LR men here....and for the LR nerds provide a 'spot of light reading of an evening' lol

Hopefully it's that...sounds like it could be. Another thing to check is the intercooler hoses,normally the bottom one as these can delaminate inside with age and kms. If this is the case you'll have a noticeable power loss also as the engine sucks the inside of the hose closed,thus strangling the motor. Easy to do and worth it if it's only that! A hole in your intercooler will also give power loss. IMO if you're noticing the oil level dropping there's not enough loss to drop the level at the rocker cover. Blown turbo seals will produce blue smoke at the exhaust also(along with a whistle).....If it were I,I'd also check your elbow turbo hose at the turbo to make sure that it's seated properly.

Eve'nin.... If you have a look here... Remove and bypass the EGR valve on a Land Rover 300tdi Engine | Landyworld You'll see that there's exhaust gas,i.e. soot etc going back into the engine. The crankcase breather comes from the rear of the engine,at the bell housing. The one from the rear heads over to the turbo intake where the turbo sucks in vapour grease from the crankcase. It joins at a 90 degree elbow. Take this off and re route. The turbo will be dirty and stay dirty if this is not removed. I blocked the90 degree elbow at the turbo hose with a plastic bottle top super glued on. Paddocks will sell the blanking kit (or make your own from a metal plate) PM1068 | EGR Blanking Kit - all 300TDI Top intercooler hose also.... ESR2309 | Hose Intercooler Carry out a google search on Audi or VW EGR problems and you'll see pictures of how bad this system is for any engine.... (On my 3.2 Pajero,I have the same hose blocked with a cork and silicon of all things. The chap before me blocked the EGR but didn't factor in the crankcase hose...luckily for me where it joins the turbo hose the grease vapour stayed en mass in the hose (weird shaped hose helped)and not in the turbo as when I checked it was luckily clean) Hope this helps

The turbo impellers will have play north to south but should have none fore and aft. If fore and aft then turbo seals are gone. When some people disconnect the EGR sometimes they forget to disconnect the crankcase breather that goes to the air filter pipe. This means the engine(via the turbo)still sucks in greasy oil,thus putting same into the turbo. For example my 390,000kms 300tdi turbo has no oil in it and is 100% clean due all pipes having been removed/blocked. Likewise the inlet manifold is clean alloy. Check your intercooler is clean also. Normally it will have oil in so take it off and rinse out with petrol or white spirit. Land Rover make a cleaner solvent just for this purpose. My breather hose just vents down into the chassis...there are 'catch cans' available to connect same to if need be. Valve stem oil seals will puff smoke out on overrun,say freewheeling down a hill..check in your door mirrors to see if this is so. If your turbo seals are indeed shot you can buy turbo cartridges or a seal kit,though if it were I I'd get a recon turbo. If seals are indeed gone you should hear a whistling sound on acceleration. If left the engine will consume it's own oil,by same passing the turbo seals. In the worst case scenario it will eat it's oil at high revs until there's none left thus blowing the engine. keep an eye on your oil level as it will drop enough in a weeks drivings.

Off the top of my head....Make sure the LR is 2008 and not a 2007 model.Check that the clutch has been replaced by upgraded part..if not factor in a clutch at some stage?...the 2007 (up to July 2008?)engines had oil piston cooling jet problems resulting in rough idle...LR stated to change the engine if rough idle occurred. Time bomb for that model year. Check that gearbox,diffs and brake servo are all OK.

At present I have... 3.2 Pajero with 256,000kms 110 200tdi ex army H/Top with 108,000kms ....and my 300 tdi Disco which has just spat a transfer box out at 390,000kms(I'll keep the engine as it's using no oil between services and scrap the rest) I spied a 200tdi Disco in a car park a couple of years ago with 930,000kms on the speedo...looked rough but it was still running daily....I hate to think what was spent on that to keep it running up to do that distance!

[/img] [/img]

I'd use 30 in the front and no more that 38-40 psi in the rear.

...and in stealth mode.... [/img]

I now have the rear seats out,heavy duty springs and a box made that holds 1.2 cubic metres of wood. Chain saw etc lies on the floor at the rear of the front seats..works really well. [/img]

I bought a Husqvarna 460 Rancher from the US last year and have cut about 25 cubic metres and have started to cut about another 25 to re stock. I paid €342 for it and nothing for import duties as it was marked as a gift.....just an idea....