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farmerjohn

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Everything posted by farmerjohn

  1. Not really a arb-tractor and digger but they do the trick when i need them to turn from construction to timber gathering. Hoping to get a fixed log-grab very soon for the kubota.
  2. hi, could you please pm me the link too, if the sale has not been, Thanks, John
  3. Hi Pete, i will look for the TRADA guide as i will find it very useful. Thanks for sharing the information, i have not come accorss the problem regarding the slope of the grain before and would be intrested if there is any 'bedtime reading' on it so i can avoid that pitfall. Hope all got sorted with the truss in the end. regards, John
  4. was that truss designed up by a engineer? i would like to point out i am not one, but i work with one on a regular basis, i would not have used a raied tie beam truss on a pitch as shallow. In my opinion, and my opinion only i would have thought the truss has failed as the principle rafters are on a very flat pitch and where the tie beam as been cut in it weakens the timber. as there is no triangulation compression as the angle is so flat, that would be my assessment of it from my knowledge, but it is no way fact.
  5. yeh its odd that, does anyone know the reason for this? i asked for good oak but not HT graded (i think thatswhat they call it) so i dont get any paperwork with it, but it should be pretty good and only get charged green oak cost. i had a structural engineer work out sections for truesses, purlings and ridges. only so i know that if we made it to a calculated spec it will not have any problems in the future.
  6. its green oak, thats why we put some oak pegs through, think they were about 25mm diamiter, just in case it dires back, didnt want the possibility of the tie beam shrinking back quicker than the principle rafters and potentially 'dropping out' we also put some adhesive in the half lap which will never be seen as well if i am being honist dry graded would have been too expensive, as there was not building regs we did not need to use graded timber, but the guys i get the beams off are pretty good, i asked for not big shakes, knots or flaws that may affect the strucutre of the truss. thanks, john
  7. course it is, soz, spelling never has or will be my stong point. thanks for the comments
  8. to be fair, we nearly did bash on and cut it right through, after a bit of head scratching came up with the same conclusion as youself woodoworks and half lapped it
  9. I buy bio diesel off a guy near me which is WVO with fat stripped out, iv ran my 55 plate nav D40 on it no problem 50/50 during winter and 75/25 in summer, also a 53 reg transit no problem, BUT i had a 54 plase iveco van and a 03plateiveco pickup and i had nothing but problems with them, to be fair, i had ignition problems with them before running them on bio. not sure if it was the bio or they have massive fuling problems (i wish i had google 'iveco daily starting problem' before i bought them) in short as mentioned in winter when temperatures are coolermixmore diesel with it or it will solidify in lines, i also filter again before putting in vans and i add a chemical which basically increases the octane rating of the bio.
  10. ok, "you are mistaken", the dovetails are not cutright through the main beam, both dovetails at each end of the tiebeam and the crossing of the principle rafters at the top are all half lapped and pegged through to hold them together. specifically for the reason you mentioned.
  11. if you dont mind me asking, what do you mean by 'your group'? i have tried the website and it did not seem to work, i would be intrested in reading up on it. The company i get the insulating lime render from is called eden lime mortars. I have insulated one side of the downstairs of my house with insulated 25mm plasterboard, I really want to insulate the other half with the lime render and then heat both sides up to the same temperature and get a thermal image of the outside to see what the heat loss is like through the walls for each product.
  12. Thanks Alec, i should have got some photos after the water stains were sanded off, i'll see if i have any. I have not seen canoeheads thread, i'll have a look for it now
  13. All trusses and purlings are larch, spars are rough sawn larch. All joints are mortice and tennon made with circular saw, chain morticer and hammer and chistle. comments welcome guys, (if there not too harsh!!!) Thanks, John
  14. joined tie beam to principle rafters using dovetail joint which was made using circular saw, hammer and chistle
  15. I am going to try and attatch some photos of trusses we made for 2 projects, here goes.....
  16. i deal with a few guys up here for lime products and they have developed a very intresting insulating lime render that i am going to try on my house and a grade 2 listed building we have to renovate as soon as the battle with the planning enforcemnt lot is sorted and my client can buy the place. I think that its just as important in modern times to insulate a house the way fuel prices are going and until now the only way to insulate a wall was using modern insulated plasterboard which is not sympathetic to a older property, now this other product is on the market i think it fits a really big gap in the market, is you are intrested drop me a line, i'm going to do a test run on my place make sure there are no problems with it. if you want any detials on it let me know, or any other advice, i'm sure i'll need some reagrding timber soon, cheers
  17. farmerjohn

    fakey-cake beams

    This is a gallery of some green elm i came accross in a local timber yard and i modifyed them to hide an pair of old timber lintels during the resoration of my house.

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