New Forest DEAN

That's all good info - cheers guys. Will get stuck in... DEAN.

Thanks again. Catweazel - not being familiar with the terms, I presume layering means planting / growing less mature trees in the gaps (sunshoots?)?? That might be a good idea, because, despite the relatively dense canopy, the stools are set quite far apart. My main intention would be use it for firewood and somewhere for the kids to play. DEAN.

Cheers Guys You don't think it sounds too dense then? or could it be denser? Its a bit unmanaged - historically they just put a bulldozer through it about 6 years ago and flattened everything. This is what's grown back up - some sprouted from the logs left on the ground! Alder is apparently very resistant to the wet once cut - often used for piers etc. Thanks again - DEAN.

If you continually work to good standards and occasionally “tip off” the local arboricultural officer about a “good” tree that someone wants felling then you are much more likely to get work that you apply for granted. That seems outrageous to me as an educational point - since when has 'you scratch my back...' been good education. I think they might want to be reconsidering whether that should be in a syllabus - the whole statement suggests that the Tree Officer doesn't make balanced decisions, which is what they are supposed to do. You CANNOT educate students to encourage unbalanced decisions in any form. The Tree Officer is an OFFICER - he has authority bestowed on him by virtue of training, experience and position which must be exercised in a uniform manner. Does this mean if I 'tip off' HMRC they might be a bit more flexible if I'm audited? How about the Police? Planning Officers? 'occassionally tip off...' - so now you are the arbitrator of who suffers additional cost or admin'. You can build trust with an authority through good practice (both ways) - you cannot build trust by being duplicitous; Would you admit to the potential client that you had informed the Tree Officer? would you inform after you had lost the job? or just as good practice? hmmm.... I think the issue for the OP is to complain to the LA etc that their slow admin' has a negative affect on business - if the Tree Officer wants to TPO, OK, but not with significant delay. I have to deal with LA's every day. DEAN.

Hi All I have just acquired a small area (about 1/5 acre, say 20x40m) of Alder, just off my garden. It was cut down about 6 years ago, but has already regrown in dense clumps to about 15 feet hight. Each 'tree' (clump / multi bole) is about 3m apart forming a dense canopy. The ground below is very wet, with a drainage ditch running through the middle. Any advice on what I could do with this? to improve? to use? (firewood) thin out? encourage? Really not sure what to do with it at the moment. Thanks in advance for any tips or advice. Cheers - DEAN.

Taking a pee has never been so complicated

The Husky 445 instructions recommend greasing the nose - it also notes that chippings can bind the chain. It's only done it once and a good run at full tilt out of the wood (good oil splattering coming out) and it noticeably smoothed out. Given it a blast with an air hose as well. Interestingly, the chain has not needed tightening yet? I've only been cutting oak, 12-15" (some 18") that's been down a year already. I limit myself to about two 10 foot logs a day, partly 'cos I'm hand splitting. DEAN.

Agreed. However, the problem often stems from the Council Tree Officer being too lazy to visit site (some visit every site, some never) in order to better understand the actual constraints. In my above example, the Tree Officer had simply cut&pasted a Condition from a large housing development to a small domestic extension without considering its relevance, impact and cost to the owner. Despite detailed plans, I recently had a Council tree Officer insist on tree protection measures and full details of materials storage, vehicle movements etc when the non-TPO tree was in the far corner of the site, across a lawn, over some planting beds through some green houses and through an orchard, away from roads etc. The extension, however, was by the driveway.... DEAN

Cheers again - I am in danger of being a pain. I presume that it can't be a bent bar if its running freely again now? DEAN. ps - Rob - did you get my PM about a new Microlite bar etc?

Cheers I've loosened the chain a wee bit and its running well again - cuts nicely again and seems to have a film of oil on it. But the suppliers think it is either a lack of oil getting through or a bent bar? DEAN.

'Details of all other activities which have implications for trees on or adjacent to the site' Typical example of one small part of an extensive (and pointless) Tree condition attached to a Planning Approval for a very small domestic extension that was not near a TPO tree. We asked if they wanted details of the owners weekend BBQ.... DEAN

I am an architectural designer and deal with Planning and Building Regulations Applications for different size projects (i.e extensions thru' to housing developments, industrial etc). This is a bit difficult to summarise, but: Nearly all Planning consultants are ego-centric and think their element to be the most important, which should be considered and included in advance of any submission - Trees, biodiversity, flooding, access, contamination, Localism etc etc. Every applicant, from a small extension to a housing development will typically be pushing the limits and taking a punt - therefore, it is simply not worth the speculation to pay for all of the external professionals to provide comment or substantiation in advance. It is far cheaper to submit an application (pre-application enquiries are just as expensive) and see what happens, what its refused on, or what conditions are attached. If one of these conditions renders the scheme unviable, then its still cheaper to amend or re-design and re-submit - most applications get a second free go at Planning. Add to this: useless Council Tree Officers, OTT one-size-fits-all tree conditions, expensive Arb' consultants (i.e. wont set foot on site for an informal opinion), developers fear of trees, anti-TPO attitude etc etc and its a bit of a struggle.... The Planner is right - more information up front smooths the way. But no one is going to risk the cost up front if the Planner (or consultant) refuses on a subjective point. DEAN

Using my Husky 445 this evening for only the third time (about 30 - 45 minutes use total since new) and the chain suddenly stopped dead, locked quite tight. I've only been through one tank of fuel since purchase (and the little bit from the chainsaw supplier) and filled the chainsaw oil up on purchase, then and topped-up again today with chainsaw oil (it was still about half full). Its been cutting much better and was halfway through a 9-12" oak log when it just stopped. The chain was tight on the bar with no slack at all. I haven't needed to tighten the chain since purchase as it has remained at the tension when supplied and demo'd - about 5-10mm max when pulled. I've followed the instructions and loosened the chain and after a few seconds of grumbling it now runs freely - but I haven't tested it yet just in case I'm missing something? There doesn't seem to be a surplus of chainsaw oil on the chain (the Echo I borrowed was practically dripping), but there is a film when the chain link is pulled out. Any suggestions? I don't want to run it and screw it up. Cheers - DEAN.

Oregon 21BPX064E seems to be a 'micro chisel', the same as the 95VPX (unless I'm misreading the box). I've looked at the 445 on Youtube and it does seem to be cutting better than mine, but obviously no chain info' and its safe to assume the operator isn't a kook like me! Thanks again - I will speak to Rob. DEAN.

That could be good - Rob D is about a mile from my house Not sure why the suppliers put that bar and chain on then - they even went to some lengths to explain the benefits when they sold me a spare chain (I did ask about narrower chains having read Spud comments on other threads). Still most of the 13 tonnes I have to ring is under 18", although I even managed to get it to bind on a 6" log today - slight twist and it stopped. Thanks for your responses and patience with a kook. DEAN.

I'm amazed that you have all overlooked the main thing we all did as lads - find inventive ways to blow stuff up. My Dads never quite gotten over his shed going boom-boom. Not sure this good H&S though... Paper round, chimney sweeps assistant, garden nursery work, washing door steps, selling cartoons, chopping wood...all kept me in cash as a nipper. DEAN.

Brand new Oregon chain (21BP, 64, 325", .058"/ 1.5mm - whatever that means) - as supplied and recommended by the chainsaw dealer - produces nice chippings. Only cut a few bits of wood so far and nothing on the ground. Not sure if a 445 should be eating up 18" wood? Cheers - DEAN.

For those interested: Tested the Husky 445 (not trying to sound cool - I can't spell Husqvarna) with a 15" bar on some 18" dia oak and beech - I found that it has to be on totally full rev's from the start of the cut or it will bind. Also the blade has to fed base first for quite a long way through the cut. Trying to roll the bar nose down around the bumper spikes (dogs?) when less than about 1/2 way through the log will also bind the blade. This means the blade is well over 45 deg's or more, tip up. Unlike the Echo I used, any real force down on the blade from me and it starts to bind or stop. Less pressure and it seems to cut quite well, the above aside. In short - (bearing in mind I'm a novice), it seems a little underpowered unless my technique is improved. Cuts through 12" stuff quite easily; 6" like butter. About 30 minutes use so far and the chain is still not loose. I'm sure some of my 'technique' above will set safety alarm bells off..... DEAN

I take it from that response that they are quite big! Just out of curiosity, Felix - can you PM me how much you want for them - I could get the waist taken in! Cheers - DEAN.

Eggsarascal - PM sent - big thanks.

Cheers Felix I'm a 32 inch waist / 30 inch leg, so I think XL might be a bit spacious? What size are they? Thanks - DEAN.

I know this is probably the wrong place for this thread, but I can't find a PPE section... My mate's offer of some spare chainsaw trousers has gone south, so I need a pair - is anybody getting rid of a cheap / old pair? or - any suggestions on a good cheap supplier? I know there are loads on line, but not sure where to start. I really don't need anything fancy as I will only be doing a few hours a year. I also need a helmet and gloves. Any help appreciated. Cheers - DEAN.

Cheers guys. It cuts bloomin' good (well, compared to the 30cc Echo I borrowed..), but is surprisingly difficult to get started. The Echo sprung to life almost immediately (despite not being used for some months), but the Husky takes minutes, even going through the six stage starting process. Within an hour of posting the original message above, the company I had brought it from called to sell me some PPE having just read it! Is a cow horned hat part of PPE? DEAN

After much deliberation over electric vs petrol and trying to find a good second hand petrol Stihl or Husky, I finally thought b*gger it and bought a brand new Husky 445E with a 15" bar from Forest & Arb (aka. Winchester Garden Machinery). Paid £350, which seems a lot less than other places on line etc (about 30% off) - the £100 / £200 extra compared to most second hand saws seemed a good idea as I could've ended up buying a total lemon. Hopefully the 445 should be OK for the few tonnes of fire wood ringing I need each year and is at the 45 / 50cc that everyone recommended on here. Can't find any reviews apart from one very negative! Thanks for the advice from everyone - now I need some old PPE... DEAN.

That's the neighbour - not me. Thanks for the advice - I will be ringing on the stack and throwing it straight into the landy for splitting at my place. The logs are too big to drag anyway. Still not sure between electric and petrol tho'. DEAN.