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Megatron

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  1. Megatron

    It would be great if you could comment on the pictures of the ignition module that I uploaded. The thread is "Stihl 038AVS, HT lead replacement". It sounded like you might be able to identify it and help with replacing the lead.

    Many thanks

    Charlie

  2. From;http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/531765-post34.html If you were commenting I was one then who was the other? You obviously have a problem with anyone giving advice which improves upon or contradicts your own and indeed difficulty accepting advice yourself. I don't see any of your advice I have undermined, merely added to or asked questions about if what you posted from my technical opinion was incorrect. This site is a one way system for me, give good technical advice and get little in return for my time. There is no financial interest for me. It isn't worth it and I will cease to post here with immediate effect. To anyone that has appreciated my advice; your welcome. Here are a few useful resource links I hope some can make use of; -Husqvarna illustrated parts lists Untick "manuals" and tick "illustrated parts lists". -Some Stihl Tech tips newsletters -Various manufacturers parts lookup including B+S, Honda, Homelite, Oregon etc -Jonsered parts lists including various older models. -Parts, service manuals and tech bulletins various -Oregon 511ax user manual -Introduction to cylinder porting, covers the basics. -Spotting fake chainsaws
  3. WOT= Wide open throttle with no load. 4stroking= Mixture is too rich to ignite every stroke so misfires. Result is a constant burbling sound. Not the same as the surging you get when a 4 stroke hits the limiter and the choke gets opened. In my opinion this is a pretty good explanation; http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/111089.htm#post1755083
  4. [ame] [/ame] Four stroking out of the wood, clearing up in the cut.
  5. What is the point of this except to stir up trouble? The only someone you are referring to is me. I have never explicitly claimed to have more experience than you so you must have inferred that from reading my posts. You are the self proclaimed "expert". I objected to the rules that were unclear, with my interpretation being advertising was not allowed in posts unless the poster was a sponsor. It has been clarified and a decision made that I will respect. By contradiction I assume you are referring to when you claimed to know "exactly" how carbs work. Thinking that was quite a bold declaration I responded with a couple of relatively simple questions to test that statement. Your response was incorrect. When notified your resonse was that you had trouble differentiating between red and blue. You were under no obligation to answer the questions put forward. Your asking for a prize implied you had little doubt about your answers, so in my opinion undermined the authenticity of the medical excuse. Who's hiding? With regards to tuning the modded saw, a test log imo is best. Listen carefully for the difference in noise of the engine in and out of the wood. You want the saw to fourstroke at WOT and clear up under load. Depending on the application you may want it to still fourstroke under self feeding but clear up under a heavier load. A tach is of little use as factory specs will no longer be applicable.
  6. IPL here; http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI1999_AAaa/HUSI1999_AAaa_I9900042_.pdf 503 25 34-01 It is possible it might be NLA if your having trouble finding one. Aftermarket ones might be available? If not you can buy the whole sprocket kit from Oregon, I believe.
  7. I have read the thread as I read every other that I post in. "Common sense" was the answer to the extent to which one is allowed to promote their financial interests. Which in my opinion gives quite a bit of leeway and should be outlined more in the rules, such that this situation does not arise again in the future.
  8. Just pointing out that the respose given by the tech may in fact have been right. Classic example of how some dealers/techs undeservedly get a bad name. Tuning "by ear" was the right response to give...
  9. IMO the rules need tightening up. I see no difference between advertising the fact you repair saws in posts and having an advertisement to the fact that you repair saws in your sig line. Which I have seen members do and I assume they were asked to remove it. Some members have also endorsed a certain Stihl parts supplier, who as far as I am aware are not a sponsor. There are several sponsors that offer similar apart from the fact they allow you to buy Stihl parts over the internet. Which is forbidden by Stihl. They are either a Dealer themselves and when Stihl find out will get shut down or they buy from another Dealer who would find himself in hot water if Stihl were aware. This is a result of dealers instructed to only sell to end users not third parties. Not to mention the copyright infringement by uploading all the parts lists from MediaCat. Many of you have said it would damage the site if certain members were deterred from posting. That would only occur if they did in fact have a financial interest in the site but refused to pay ad fees.
  10. -Firstly not all 372XP saws are rev limited, depends on the age. -Tuning by ear as the saw comes out of a test log and/or making timed cuts are the only way to tune a saw with electronic rev limiter. Not using a tachometer. Most mechanics will just set it to the "basic" setting and leave it at that.
  11. Should say 3003 not 3002. 3003 is the bar mount for the MS240 through to MS660. 3002 is MS880, 076 etc.
  12. The replacement module for the 038 is the 0000 400 1300. Used on many of the Stihl models. I have Bosch, SEM, Ducati and IIDA 0000 400 1300 modules here all with removable HT leads. Any chance of a picture of said module?
  13. Helicoils won't work in plastic besides you would have to use a lathe to make a replacement stud as you likely won't find a helicoil with the DG8 threads the bar stud uses. As Pleasant says 1127 664 2410. The replacement stud has DG9 threads. No need to re-drill the hole just screw the stud in, coat the threads with a bit of oil. Make sure it goes in squarely. Use two bar nuts tightened together to enable you to screw it in. There are oversized studs available for other models with plastic cases e.g. MS171, MS181, MS230 etc 1123 664 2405 The saws with alloy cases with the 3002 bar mount also have an oversize stud available but very rarely is it worth installing as there is normally a lot else damaged on the case. 1115 664 2405 (Standard stud used on later 056 saws).
  14. From; http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/627480-post10.html From;http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/541897-post13.html

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