Bob_z_l

@Vigen Tigen

Can't offer much guidance on sections.

I've listed in the Timber -construction materials   and also diy - / crafts wood.

I'd have a look at what is being advertised of a similar style and go from there. using

Unless you are very lucky I think you'll have a bit of a wait.

I did have stuff go quickly but think it was because I was almost giving the stuff away.. 

It's a "how long is a piece of string"  thing. 

IF you have someone who knows what they want and what is a good / respectful price, you are made. 
I've had this.....and I've had the mushrooms that want to "build" magnificent furniture from what I have clearly stated is freshly milled ( and therefore cheap) wood, that requires drying and further work. 

I feel that I could almost write a book on the experience.
I'm sure some of the other chaps will be along to offer their advice too.

As before, all the best of British Luck to you.

I have sold a few boards....not as many as you have.

Ebay - can take a while. Plenty of idiots asking questions with no real desire to purchase. Difficult to place in the correct section unless you pay more for multiple inserts.

Gumtree - Same except no fees and limited audience.

 Tried these but not a lot of takeup yet.

Don't do facebook and so no comment. 

Comes back to ebay. It's a nuisance and yet a global go-to for stuff. Just need to put it in the right section. Get your title right so you get maximum exposure on any search, good pictures and an accurate description and wait...

Best of luck. 

Certainly had elements of Mixy rabbit.

I suppose the only good news would be that if it did have it, it won't be dragging itself back into a warren and killing the whole lot. 

Sadly, in a week or so you might find it flat in it's scrape.  

I have similar in a large Oak tree near me. Although there is a local squirrel population, I put it down to the dry weather and the gusty conditions lately.

7 minutes ago, eggsarascal said:

I’ve had it both barrel’s of a good mate today, he doesn’t mince his words. It was short and sweet, it went like this, you need to cheer up and shake this nonsense off you miserable bastard. Probably not the best medical advice but he put a smile on my face.

Good mates and family are the best tonic. Keep on the up.

2 minutes ago, Muddy42 said:

I have an old MS460 (76cc I think) with a 20 inch bar that I brought back to live with a meteor piston last year.  So far its been great.  Like you I was trying to fill a gap between small and massive saws.

Does the 460 have a separate pot? 

As my earlier question.

26x 46x all even numbers. so even = Pro?

12 minutes ago, AHPP said:

Further musing:

 

The 441 is pointless when the 461 exists.

Farmer saws like the 291 and 391 will feel dead if you're used to a good pro saw like the 261. The farmer/landscaper/prosumer 230 should by that logic be shit too but their power:weight ratio is particularly good.

My 230 is fine, when I had a few issues a few years ago (2000 model) the chap in the workshop winced when I said how much I was using it. He said prosaw and 261 was the way. In truth they are similar except the 261 has mag/alloy cases and feels more robust. 
Hence my question....without getting my mitts on the model, how do I tell? 
The engine construction is different. 261 has a separate pot like a 661  
Can I assume Pro saws have this? 

I wondered if there was an easy way... 23x 25x 27x prosumer 24x 26x pro? Odds not pro Evens Pro?

Sorry If I'm asking a silly question.

Help please,

 I have a 261 and also 230 and see the difference in the 261 Mag/alloy crankcases.

I'm looking to add another saw to the collection midway between 261 and 661. Probably second hand.

What model range am I looking out for?  361, 441. 392 460/1   I'm getting confused.

14 hours ago, MattyF said:

Keep an eye on the big dealers websites for trade ins , they will need a bit of work but I picked mine up from carsbilington, spent what it needed on brakes ect and don’t think I’ve lost anything in 8 years looking at current prices. 
Definitely get 4x4 for crawling out of forest ditch’s you’ll probably unintentionally find ! 

Too dear for me. 

Sorry, I'll get my coat.

1 minute ago, Muddy42 said:

 

Richard Flagg has quite a few other videos about the problems with Ultra, if you are interested. Plenty of other people online seem to have issues.

 

I think I was as surprised as anyone to find out there had been concerns, particularly given Ultra has been sold for at least 10 years.  Id be interested if anyone in the UK had had problems?

Good point.   The US have their own mixes of fuel. ... 

Reaching out in the hope that  @Crocky has some comment....only based on the fact that he'll be looking at the insides of my 261 that has almost exclusively run on E5 pump fuel and Ultra 50:1 or as near as dammit. 

25 minutes ago, wyk said:

Whilst I haven't seen it quite as bad as Richard has, I have seen a few saws in front of me on Ultra that had loads of carbon everywhere. I suspect he sees stuff run in much hotter climes than we have here. Still, I was not impressed with what I saw. Not much lube, loads of carbon. Usually I would suggest 40:1, but with how much carbon I see, I just say go with something else. Like, anything else from a different brand.

 

Sorry, not having a pop, but....

It was the way he was quick to whip the pot off, when a view through both the inlet and exhaust ports would have shown the same. Yes?

Also, cynical me says, there was no indication of how old the saw was. 

I run Motomix (50:1 Ultra) in a milling saw and Ultra /E5 mix in all the rest.  Milling flat out just about through every pass. The implied lack of lube is quite a big concern. Plus....it's the first time it's been brought up.

I've seen/followed all the pump fuel vs alkalyte threads and Aspen vs Motomix and nothing about excess carbon and poor lube. 

This is very concerning. I've been using Motomix in my881 since new because I want it to last as long as possible. Now you are saying I'm damaging it by using ultra.  
Interested t see what others say.

I always split when wet. 
Some wood goes like iron when it dries (Holly? Hawthorn?)

As said above...there are a lot of factors, including when the wood was felled. I have had some winter felled oak nearly (squeaks below 20%) in a year. 
Whereas now that the sap is rising the wood splashes and splatters as there is so much moisture.. The oak I split recently - last weekend - I expect will take at least 2 years i.e  two summers before it's ready. 12" long logs cut into bars almost. 

Bitzers

Dorking / Light Sussex cross. 

2 and 1/2 weeks. Looks like I have possible cockerel. Bad news as the Dorkings and Light Sussex's are both B'tards. Can't see a x being any better. 😞

Araucana Bantam chicks. Hens will hopefully be laying light blue eggs.

Will that one ratchet hold it too?

2 hours ago, AHPP said:

Squirrel the last of the dry stuff away in boxes, bins etc round the house. If you need it, you burn it. If you don’t, it’s a bonus start to next season. And you can get the last bay filled with fresh.  

Same.

Mrs is still burning though. So, Yes Fire still going.

Ours came back last Thursday.  Feels like summer is almost here. 

Our Swallows arrived back today. So very happy as it means (to me) summer is within a short reach. 

Agreed to all above..

Had my old (1999) 023 out yesterday to clear a blown over tree in the garden. Doesn't get as much use as it did after being superseded by 2015 MS261. 
I've said to friends if Stihl (or Husky) made cars....I'd have one. Straightforward to service/maintain and with care they last. 
 

Chap in the clip says about moving the retaining clip out of the way. This is the most difficult bit of the whole process but not beyond the skills of a maintainer.  Forewarned , forearmed etc. 

Did mine a few years back. I thought it was quite straightforward. From memory when you  unclipped the wiring it left a small (fiddly) screw to remove and this held a small retaining plate. 

Keep everything spotless and oil up the new solenoid o-rings before refitting. 

Again from memory only 30 mins work end to end.

23 hours ago, lux said:

 

 

@doobin I would say you are welcome to try my lo-pro set up on your new saw. I leave  the bar attached to the mill etc so its a quick swap over when i want it but mine is running on my MS660's and im sure Ive been told the bar mounts are different on the 880 / 881 - Im sure someone more learned than I on the topic will confirm or allay that.

 

 

I don't think you can swap up 661 to 881 as bar nuts are larger diameter on 881  so the slot is bigger.

You could go the other way and run an 881 on a 661 but you'd need a fancy adapter off RobD at chainsawbars

Bar Adapter Turns D025 12mm Medium Stihl Studs to 14mm A031

WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK

---

Use this adapter plate in order to fit 14mm Large Stihl type bars to the mid size Stihl mounting studs which are 12mm.

1 hour ago, doobin said:

Currently it has a 36" Stihl Rollomatic, mainly for removing excessive butt flare and crosscutting milling logs prior to placing on the bandsaw mill.

 

I'm thinking a 54" bar/mill would be the best setup. 48" of cut is a fairly chunky butt, and apparently the same Panther mill will take a 64" bar if needed?

Have a think about an auxiliary oiler too. 54" is a lot of bar to oil. Even with the 881 at max flow. 

And enjoy!

2 minutes ago, Macpherson said:

I have 48" Alaskan, a 54" bar would let you use the full width of the mill losing about 6" in mounting the saw, so yes 54" would be the right bar to max out a 48" mill.

 

 

Phew... same figures as me.