Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

wyk

Veteran Member
  • Posts

    1,415
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by wyk

  1. The 9010 is a different category than the 7900 series. It will easily oil a 36-40 inch bar buried in the base of an oak stump, and do this sort of work all day long for years. The 7900 is sarting to strain to keep the bar oiled with a load like that, and you'll eventually damage the B&C and maybe the chassis. It's not about the speed, it's about the task. If you need a 36inch bar or more, and it will be long cuts in hard woods, you might want to go with the 9 series. If it's under 36 inches, I am sure Shavey can hook you up with a 7900.

    • Like 1
  2. That part is NLA, and it also very rarely dies. I would make absolutely sure it wasn't generating spark and that the flywheel is fine and the coil is where it should be.

    You can find them on occasion on EBay and a few web searches.

    I had a 330EVL not long ago, and I found it a nice little saw. Had very high compression.

    155186545.QlFPBj4H.330evlrt.jpg

     

     

  3. 9 hours ago, Stere said:

    How com the  yankee makstar has a mag case them?

     

    Could be  they think theere isn't the demand for the smaller professional saws coz everything is bigger in the USA, aad pros  only want big saws , small ones being seen as for home owners?

     

    image.thumb.png.cf3a549e018e32518302cdba34567d04.png

     

     

    WWW.MAKITATOOLS.COM

    16" 42 cc Chain Saw

     

    I'm a big fan of the Makita 4300/Dolmar 421 myself. They wake up once ported, too.

     

     

  4. 22 hours ago, spudulike said:

    That exhaust port looks like it hasn't been machined correctly to me!

    It may be a clamshell with a 90* angled exhaust port, A La Echo and old Macs. Here's an Echo 355t:

    170400436.keFC4XKk.jpg

     

    This isn't directed at Steve, but the OP:

     

    How a saw behaves with the exhaust modified varies. The 'too much' part is when it starts to blow exhaust on plastics, or just gets too loud. Some exhausts have baffles inside that will go a long ways to defeating any improvements on the external venting if they are not removed. You will almost always need to retune the carburettor.

     

    Always mod the muffler off of the saw. If your piston is at TDC and you pull it over without it igniting any mix, it may actually suck in whatever is in the exhaust instead of blow it out. The last thing you need in a 2t engine is a load of steel shavings.

    • Like 1
  5. 3 hours ago, nepia said:

    Isn't rapeseed oil the only veg oil that doesn't cake when left for a while, hence its use?  I've used it for years without issue but haven't tried any other veg oil.

    Rapeseed/Canola has antioxidents naturally. So it's less likely to oxidize compared to some other bio oils, and a healthy choice for cooking with ;). Many bio oils have tachifiers added. In the UK and here in Ireland, it really doesn't get hot enough to need them unless you are averse to sharpening your chains.

    I say I work on an estate, but it's really more like a cattle and fishing ranch. I try not to pollute the environs with mineral oil if I can help it. It also saves a huge amount of costs.

    • Like 1
  6. 15 hours ago, bmp01 said:

    Ok, I want that to be the case (just wires, no electroncs). I like simples.

    I was looking for an explanation for why the strobe timing and the tacho went beserk when the saw started misfiring. ... which I now think was fueling induced not coil induced. Understanding the tacho is easy - its looking at the time between sparks to determine engine speed, if engine speed is changing dramaticlly due to musfire then the tacho can't follow it sensibly.  But the strobe, if it flashes in response to a spark and the coil isn't limited type, then the spark and strobe should keep happening at the ssme point in the engine cycle. Maybe the strobe can't operate at high 2 stoke engine speeds, it's a plain and pretty old strobe I'm using.

    I'll pull the covers off  it and hope to find just wires.

    That may be due to a limited coil. Does it happen at high rpm?

  7. Depending on a few factors, an electrical impulse/wave travels about 70% the speed of light in copper, with currents traveling around 1/100th the speed of light(c=nearly 300,000km/second in a void) through a metal wire. Assuming direct current, the signal reaches the bulb so fast it's almost as though there is no delay(unless you are a subatomic particle or a photon).

    The timing light likely has some sort of inductive set up with wires coiled around or terminate at a bulb, causing it to flash when there is an electric signal. Unless it's a rather fancy strobe, it's likely all wiring.

     

    • Like 3

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

Articles

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.