predator

my electric sharpener is sat on shelf now unused file give me better results and the chains last longer too as i tended to get greedy with the electric sharpener and the cutters where getting blued and burred

you poor soul i hope you make a good recovery i did after droping a 3 ton van on my hand severed tendons etc i just feel it a bit in the cold you will be ok after the plastics have finished with you fizzyo after etc 7 to 9 weeks lol

i just use a file

MY THINKING GOES LIKE THIS AT THIS MOMENT IN TIME IF I HAVE A OLD SECONDHAND CAR/BIKE/CHAINSAW OR WHATEVER DONT CLOG IT TO DEATH OR IT WILL BREAK AND AS FOR ANYONE SELLING ETC SAWS ETC sorry caps They will tell you to run at full chat as it will cut faster work harder etc etc even builders i know who have hired bought new stone saws have trouble with piston damage etc all told to run at full chat again .As upto know i aint had a engine failure ever but i,ve done a few up for friends at there cost clogged to death etc can i just add too i use a semi synpathetic oil and always temted to add a tad more the the recomended 100mm to a gall so to speak maybee i,ve been very very lucky upto now etc thanks guys anyway for you advice and have taken it all on board and will mull it over it just scares me to run a engine at full chat and get it all hot n bothered lol

well i,am 48 yo and even at school age used my dads stuff petrol cutters etc and these days chainsaws and never had a piston/engine failure yet i just rev enough to cut the wood and it works for me just tickling through my firewood as i dont fell big trees etc thats for the exsperts suppose thats why my saws are never in bits worn out etc as i dont use them to there full wack my fuel lasts ages i refill oil every second tank of fuel and the odd file up after snagging on a odd nail stone that a treestump has eaten

THANKS FOR THE HELPFULL INFO ALEC it all helps you know as i never stop learning and you have now put to bed as me a hgv engineer etc often thought about people saying run at full revs when cutting but i dont and wont" i give enough throttle to cut wood to save fuel and wear/stress on engine etc and less chance of a piston picking up as the saw dont run as hot .I also give my saw a free run to get the oil back into the chain as i cut a lot on dry logs for my firewood etc

any comments please i would be greatful esp about ms341 compared to ms361 merry christmas to you and your familys too

Going to ask in this post please whats the differance ms341 compared to a ms361 is it fitted with a larger jet in the carb etc or as usual barking up the wrong tree its too late anyway as i,ve bought a 2010 model ms341 for larger tree logs etc i,ve fitted my old 20" bar n chain off my old 038 will it be ok ,ish for what i do for every now n then so to speak as it was running a 15" bar

Well i got a 2008 ms260 but after using a ms250 it feels really soft n squidgy as the mounts seem very soft or is it me use to the ms250 as that was solid so to speak i could feel every cutter working lol good saw though but the ms260 is a breed apart after using it but only time will tell i was told the ms250 only has a little oil pump and it was on a 18" bar so i thought it was,nt getting enough oil etc when i got it the bar was blue etc but also the guy who had it thew it out the tree said it was rubbish etc on checking it over he had fitted the chain the wrong way lol he bust the chain brake and broke the rear air filter cover and cracked a lump of the rear handle not the saws fault in my book but moved on up now as i,ve read on here they make a good ground saw for chomping my firewood up

MY SIDES JUST LIFT OUT ETC and got the use of steel/welder for free so all done for nowt as for the mesh sides i did,nt know any were available ??

GOSH THAT,S A GOOD AGE You must of looked after them ??? & are they used regular etc ???? or is it a collection you have" .As i feel when i,ve upgrade etc i dont want to sell my old saws on dunno why i feel like that!! you get attached to your tools i allways look for same screwdriver in my toolbox even though i got others in same drawer i would be gutted if it wasnt there

TBH i did,nt think a log would hold up 2 blokes

I read most of the post,s etc but they seem to confuse me at times .When does a chainsaw become a old chainsaw and how long do they actually last or how long do you hold onto a chainsaw etc years or months as all mine are secondhand and cant afford new one,s no way could i just go all out for a new saw to cut logs up for my burner in the winter etc as i can only just afford to run my jeep n trailer to collect wood for next years fuel and i think it will get a lot harder to be honest this country is on the bones of its arth and theres no end to it we will have to pay a tax next for having a woodburner me thinks

Thanks i left the front with larger holes in so i can load longer lengths logs etc and ring them up in my own time and less time wasted cleaning up after the chainsaw has finished spewing shavings all over the customers property so sorry caps again

I WAS FED UP RATCHET STRAPS ETC GETTING THE OUT WRAPPING UP AND CAN GET A GOOD LOAD ON NOW I borrowed the use of a welder and scrounged some galve fence posts from my mates dad just finished it to day inc guards for front marker lights as i,ve had to replace them twice now just to say i,am not trained as a welder fabricator etc i just put it together rough n ready its worked out ok and all lifts out very quick [/img] http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u41/MRROBES/PLANTTRAILER002.jpg

cheers thank for all the advice etc my sister has e45 cream and has offered me a tub full but fancy the snowfire could you tell me where to buy it as i,ve never seen it advertised and i do get dermatitis wet leaky itchy skin on the backs of my finders all caused by wearing rubber gloves in the past so can only use the builder rubber grippy ones for short periods so with the cols weather and my first time mauling with logs alot etc my hands are suffering now rough and very dry splitting on the tips too and can will get very sore for me and start bleeding etc

WOW YOUR TUFF CHAIN OIL LOL Yes i do work with my hands all day etc either on spanners car/truck repairs mot,s etc and that not been the problem its only come on so to speak since i fitted a logburner mauling with trailer loads of wood man handling it about and also built a 80ft x 12ft wood store and yes its full lol me and my landlord share it and i get to store my gear there for free etc but my hands are really rough now on the verge of cracking where my fingers bend and very very dry its deffo the wood thats dried my hands out you know how it is gloves on gloves of then forget to put them back on and the only thing i got here at home is some shaving balm for time being

Hello i have been cleaning up around my plot burning old rubbish etc and splitting logs to stock up etc before all the snow comes even though i,ve worn gloves er most of the time i,ve noticed my skin on my hands has gone rough like thick old cardboard . what hand creams have you tried and what worked best for you etc as my hands are wrecked thesedays mauling wiith logs etc

i agree with what your saying totaly thanks its been a very steep learning curve for me whats good/bad etc thanks everyone for your advice so far

good thinking about the casings n date markings its also a pitty they did,nt date up like briggs & stratton do in there engine no,s and stamp the cc on the head like on motorbike engines too or color code them its a minefield buying a s/h chainsaw as i aint got the moneys to go out willy nilly for new etc

AS A EX HGV FITTER strip the rear drums of etc and remove any brake dust and if the drums have heat craze scrap them new one not that dear to be honest and check what type of lining been fitted in the past as cheapo linings dont work well as oe brake linings have better friction qualitys there for better handbrake readings it will give you an idea by checking the rear foot brake test reading compared to hand brake also if you hold footbrake down hard then apply handbrake then release footbrake your readings will or should rise up but my advice is strip down rear brakes and do a full rebuild replacing what ever is worn i,e drums linings and if done proper it will lock out on tester which is what they want to see also under load your load sensor will give you more brake force when you have a full loads on as for bedding in etc the shoes will bed in quicker if you get the fitter to file the edges off a tad they will bed in lot quicker on another note if you have air over hydraulic you could have wet linings caused by leaky wheel cylinders bt iam only human so could be miles away and talking slutch lol

i,am only a logburner so would be out my depth lol its a man thing log dancing is for pro,s by the looks and i ask myself why are the doing it after drinking berroca anyway lol

How many of you guys have tried drinking berroca lol and danced with your buddy on a log as seen on tv i think its a bit odd two grown men dancing on a log to be honest it must be hard to do and i would end up in the drink and whats it got to do with this drink anyway or is it just for real men who can log dance ??????

CHEERS AS CLEAR AS FOG LOL i just wanted to know if the was an easy way incase a s/h saw is what the seller says it is so to speak and could relate to numbers/dates which inturn would give saw specs year of build cc etc ALL INFO WOULD SAFEGUARD ME WHEN I BID/BUY A SAW AND KNOW WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN I PICK UP

Just trying to find out if the chainbrake sticker is missing been replace etc how could i date the year of a saw i was say buying from ebay s/h etc do they have other markings on as i bought a 038 saw a while ago and was told 1993 then found out it was 1982 SO SOLD IT ON NOW it was very greedy on fuel and heavy so got a 341 to replace it