spudulike

Sounds like I'd better give up then and just keep choking it like I have for the last 6 months. Don't fancy splitting the crankcase. Wish I'd asked on here before I started fiddling

The most common fault is the earth wire shears, often it looks ok but the wires break inside the rubber cover. Try replacing just the earth (yellow/green) wire and see if it works!

I need to replace the both wires in my 200t. The yellow one is easy but how the hell do I get the black one to pull out? I tried pulling it through from the coil and now it is stuck the other side of the hole in the top of the saw. Also how do I get the new one in?

Thanks will

Split the crankcases, that will do it! I would usually cut and solder the wire for the reasons you have. You may be able to take the grommet out but wouldn't bother!

In the past, I have just repaired it and used shrink wrap to cover the joint.

It will get a full check over, my over indulgent pressure and vac checks where any loss isn't acceptable, the fuel system will get a going over and I think it is looking like a 372 top end but time will tell.

I find many decomps leak and now just lap the things in and apply a little grease when pressure checking. I don't think this by itself will cause a major seize but guess it is possible but not likely.

Any decent tech will check out all the possible issues and then reset the carb to ensure it is running well and within spec.

You are welcome old boy:thumbup:

From the damage, it looks like it has been seizing over e period of time and then failed really badly. There is a lot of aluminium sludge around that bottom end and that usually means that the ring has stayed mobile in the groove and the aluminium transfer has been abraded off the bore.

A big mess and unusual to have scoring on the inlet side as well.

Hey now, in all these incidents England fans are provoked, now it's just coincidence that its always their followers provoked,

 

It is so unlucky that not one other nation seems to be as disliked as them,

 

Mmmmmmm strange that one.

And bloody strange that the rest of the world see to want to live here.....that I just don't understand but there again, I think I see the reasons:sneaky2:

Six years ago I bought a Ryobi 4 stroke kombi tool as a "lending out" tool for all the acquaintances that ask to borrow tools. I have seldom used it but bought some extra attachments.

 

I wondered why an old school friend was a bit slow to return it, turns out the camshaft is plastic and has melted the lobes off the exhaust cam.

 

[ATTACH]206469[/ATTACH]

 

Unfortunately the part is not listed, it appears to be a common problem and people have made their own but that's a bit much for me as it only cost 80 quid. What to do with those attachments though?

 

The oil feed to the cam seems to be through a bicuspid val;ve in the cylinder from the crankcase and there is some sort of impulse line through the overhead camshaft.

It is possible the valve got tight in its guide when standing and took out the lobe.

The attachments would probably work on a McCulloch powerhead or you may find a non runner with the part intact and repair your unit.

For the cost of posting it back, I could easily replace piston /ring

But what else would need to be replaced/tested, to try and stop it happening again

Pressure and Vacuum check to ensure all rubber parts and jointing faces are sealing fully, fuel line and filter, carb diaphragms/metering arm/gauze filter, finally a tach tune to make sure the saw is revving correctly.

As I also mentioned - the main bearings may have a fair bit of aluminium in them so may be damaged or need flushing out.

Have you heard of a small site called eBay:lol: You will find them on there. Many UK sellers now and GHS are stocking them now. Before you ask, the Greek guy (Leo) and also the Lithuanian guy (Max) are OK and get the piston to you in a week.

This one looks like a metal one to me!

Clutch Sprocket Bearing Fits 025 026 MS250 MS260 MS261 Stihl Chainsaw | eBay

Ebay tells me I have purchased one before and they have always been metal!

Every single 261 I have ever used has had the needle bearings go at some point. I have got a load spare in my tool box for when they go on site. I'm sure Sthil make more money from those bloody things than the actual saws themselves. 😉

Mmmm - cynical but probably correct:thumbdown:

Heya spud, where do you source the steel bearing from if you don't mind me asking? My 261 needs a hug big time

The Bay, you can tell in the images if they are steel caged!

I'm about to pull the trigger on a new 201T Spud, any recs?

 

Better and more durable than a 540?

 

My 200's fine, but my backup 020t AVE's still a bit temperamental at times, but still screams!

 

Do you trust these microprocessor driven new saws like the 201?

 

I run very high octane racing fuel, mixed with stihl's silver synthetic mix.

 

Thanks for any advice mate.

 

Jomoco

The autotune is great when it works and is the way forward. Unfortunately you cant get in to the carbs and resolve some issues as you could on standard carbs. Sometimes people just jump on the autotune and blame that rather than diagnosing the real route cause giving it bad press.

One issue of these lean burn autotune engines is that they use much less fuel and therefore much less oil and this makes for bottom end bearing issues and possible top end seizes so.......a fully synthetic decent quality oil and a 40:1 mix would be my recommendation and sounds like you are there anyway - just use a fatter oil to petrol ratio to keep the saw sweet.

The technology will become more reliable as it did in the automotive world, just takes time!

No doubt there is an issue its just that the bearing is the same one that is fitted to a vast range of saws.

 

The issue as far as I know is the clutch drum, this is causing the bearing to fail, trash the oil pump etc rather than the bearing being at fault.As you say more often than not the oil pump arm is broken.

 

The drums on the 261 seems to wear extremely fast. I have had ms260's in that must have done thousands of hours on the same bearing and hundreds on the same drum.

 

Ive just been fitting the ms260 dums and have had no return issues as of yet

I fit the steel cage needle bearing and a new clutch kit. Tends to do 1-2 years so not too bad.

I have seen old saws come in, no maintenance but perfect on clutch play, damn strange that Stihl didn't get it right on this saw:confused1: Have also had similar on 362s though....not good.

In a politicians answer kind of way Stihl probably are right. The bearing is OK the drum isnt. Well thats my take on it.

Yes but something isn't right as some have been so bad, the drum has actually worn the end of the oiler arm off and some have stripped the arm off the oiler worm/pinion!

No good just denying it as the evidence is there and telling the customer this tripe just pisses them off!

I just wonder why the MS260 was fine and the 261 was so bad - no idea if the latest ones are any better!

Mind if I quote you Spud? I'm gonna screen shot the FB page and email it to Stihl NZ and see what they say.

Feel free - one was running on just the glass fibre cage as it had no needle rollers left! Had old 026, 066 etc in with perfect needles so the issue is in the design/materials!

Hi Steve,

I'm after a little guidance on carb tuning.

I've fitted a dual port muffler on my stihl 066 and I'm concerned that without a tune up I risk leaning the saw out.

Do I tweak the L out a touch and leave the H screw ??

I would retune both but it is only the H screw that may cause damage. I would just tach the saw to 13000 - 13500 rpm, without a tach, give the H screw a 1/4 turn anti clockwise and check the plug colour after an hours running - it should be coffee colour!

I would be concerned about just putting on a dual port without any retune!

That's absolutely splendid, thank you very much.

Will box it and get an invoice out shortly. Can you PM me an email address and address to send it to?

Cheers .

Hello spud, I've had a look and they are the same as this. I pushed the spring loaded bit in with a dentist tool and the screw could then be turned. I have ordered the tool for adjusting easily, from what I could see it is a 21 toothed spline, not a seven, does that sound about right? How much would it be for you to get me an exhaust and do a mod on it and then post it to me?

Is this exhaust OK for you as it is completed now?

Well that's a bit of a joke, every 261 I have had in has a buggered clutch needle bearing along with damage to the oiler arm and clutch drum bearing hole!

Keep denying it and it will all go away:001_rolleyes:

ok when I have about 1k spare I will come and see you!

You suggesting I put my prices up:lol:

When you are ready:thumbup:

The new upgraded one?

Well of course:001_rolleyes:, what else would I fit for the esteemed Mr B:lol:

Not modded Carl, although its on my list of wants! I have a collection of saws that spuds going to get from me one of these days. 5 are sitting in bits currently, and counting

How many years have I been waiting:001_rolleyes: I even have a T540 undercarriage with your name on it in the workshop!

When you are ready:thumbup:

Got the saw into some trees today, filter and plug have made a little difference and after running it through some 15" wood flat out to reset seems a little better.

 

Still a little boggy at times, when I was in the dealer he said about plugging it in for a reset and some updates?!? I thought it was a saw not an iPhone 😜

The autotune has firmware updates and various parameters can be set back to factory default. There are checks for throttle sensors, carb temperature and carb solenoids that can be done as well.

It is progress but needs time to become a reliable technology as it is in most modern cars. Those manufacturers that don't use such technology, will have to do so before much longer....that's the way it is!