TKO

Yeh this looks pretty weak. I was hoping to see a single piece of equipment as opposed to a cobbled together set up. I wonder what the second attachment hole in the gold body is for? where is the image from?

Nah bro, it's in my kitbag and I still use it if I'm offset from my anchor by a long way. But I couldn't bring myself to repurpose non arb stuff, label it arb stuff and then charge £500 for it ???? But joking aside the tape measure with throwline and a swingcheek pulley solved the problem for me so I just stopped there. I don't think there is any need to sell a purpose built unit, cos it's crazy easy to make.

Every now and again I use the this technique but with a timber hitch. Pull the the line out, find the next position, stick the gob in, measure the deadeye round the stem, fold the line at that point, spin it, sling it round the stem, drop the pulley through the bight, pop the line in, tie it on, knock the lump off Iv used Marlow whoopies in the past, but found that they were really susceptible to glazing. How do you guys find the tenex? Does it tend to glaze at the overlap points? I like the idea of a preset daisy chain, do you often find that your block sits quite low in comparison to the bottom of the gob due to lack of adjustability?

Has anyone tried out Reecoil's retractable tool lanyard yet? if so how have you got on with it? looks like this

Okay sweet! there's no visible leaking from any of the crank case seals. So if I'm looking at pot and piston, do you reckon I could get away with just a piston? The pot looks in good shape What have I done that is likely to have caused scoring on the exhaust side of the piston.

Hi there guys, Iv got a 560xp that doesn't want to idle. I can rip it over on half choke and keep blipping the throttle between cuts but the second I take my finger off the throttle it dies. I have had the eahaust off and there is some really faint marks on the piston but nothing major. Is it part seizure? Or loss of compression do you think? At this point I'm looking at a big bill to fix either way, I just want to buy the right fix. Any help would be really appreciated. Cheers

Shawyers Tree Specialists Vacancy for climber Company is based in FairOak (Hampshire) Applicants must have a minimum of: CS30,CS31,CS38,CS39,Driving License. Not Essential: B+E towing license, CS41, Excellent rates of pay Apply through [email protected]

Shawyers Tree Specialists Backup climber/Groundy position available Company is based in FairOak Applicants must have a minimum of: CS30,CS31,CS38, Driving License. Excellent rates of pay offered Apply through [email protected]

Hahahahaha:lol::lol:

I lost a real expensive set of keys on a woodland job last year, so went out and bought an Amazon tile. It's Bluetooth like you said, the battery lasts a year, it's £20, it plays a noise when you activate it on your phone, your phone logs where you last parted ways with it and if anyone passes it with the tile app it will update the location (without them knowing). It's saved me a few times this year, if only by turning a 45 minute turning over of the yard to a minute of searching for the sound.

So I spoke to art direct and they replied with "iv never heard of that happening before, good luck" hahaha, which needless to say was less than helpful. So I then spoke to Mike at treekit, who was awesome. He dismantled a brand new one for me and called me back once he figured it out. Those guys are wicked, they really go the extra mile. Anyway, turns out you just pull it out like with any positioner. After hours of effing, jeffing and reaching for the hammer on numerous occasions I finally got it free. Once I got it out, I had a good look and it seems the aluminium on the rope guide clutch had oxidised and fused itself to the pin causing them to become one item. My advice to anyone with a rope guide would be to make sure you dry it out every time you get it wet, rather than letting it fester in your kit bag like i do. Hope this is helpful to someone in the future

So far I have tried, in is order, boiling water, wd40, a screwdriver, finger nails and finally a hammer. I decided to call it quits when I realised I wasn't so much trying to remove the pin but just trying to smash it

Darrin: Right hand number 4 pin is jammed in tight. I dunno if there is a thread in there or if it's the clutch tension or what, but I am starting to graunch up the ally but trying to get it out with a screw driver. Steve: Yeh I know what you mean, I had the same. Annoyingly the rope guide only has one removable Side panel and the pins aren't exposed on the reverse side. So you can drive them out with a punch.

I just glazed through my rope guide rope bit and bought a replacement. I've broken it down and got as far as the pin that holds the clutch in place.....but the little git won't shift. I had assumed it'd be the same as the positioner and just fall out but it's stuck fast. Anyone ever replaced their clutch/rope before and know how to remove the pin. Looking forward to hearing the solution Cheers in advance.

I'd love to give that a test! I really like that they have sorted the adjustability and the midline attachment in one hit!