Ryan

Hi guys, Im not recommending everybody switches to using waste oil as as Im sure nobody wants. If I was using my chainsaws for my job i could factor in the cost of chain oil and it wouldnt be an issue, however im only cutting firewood in an attempt to save money. But anyway I just wanted to pick up on a point raised and want you to consider something for a second. If engine oil even after 10k miles is good enough to lubricate the crankshaft bearings of a high performance diesel engine running up to 5000 rpm and often under severe load and better still the bearings in the turbo charger at speeds in excess of 100,000 rpm surley it is more than adequate to lubricate the bar of a chainsaw. As for damaging an oil pump i doubt it. I have ran an 020 stihl for 8 years on waste oil and never needed to replace a pump. But if it ever did a new oil pump is about the same price as a gallon of oil which would be used in a couple of days.

Of course it is, but at least I dont smoke it! Seriously though you are quite right but then again so is exhaust fumes from your saw, your chipper, tractor, landrover and I believe water contains carcinogens too although nobody wants to admit that.

I use exol 2 stroke oil. £4/L at local motor factors. Using it about 8 years. As for chain oil, its used/black oil from the landrover after servicing.

Cheers guys. They are not the biggest but its nice work. Craobh, youll have to enlighten me to the meaning of 'stubby'

I started today to cut the timber I recently fell in with. This will be the biggest job I have taken on so far. Made a good start today with about 80 trees stripped of branches to head height ready for felling and another 40 felled and stripped, bucked ready for forwarding to the roadside for collection. Took a couple of photos during the day. It will keep me in firewood for a day or two. First few cleaned up ready for felling The first cut On the deck How its looking after the first day.

I have had to resort to the flexothane jacket on occasion but as said you get wet from the inside out. If the weather ever would get a bit warmer it wont be so much of an issue getting wet. Just thought there might be a wonder jacket that is the best kept secret in logging. Im a keen shooter and wear gear from NewZeland called Swazi. It is the ultimate in waterproof breathable gear but not tough enough for the woods.

Just wondering what you recommend in terms of wet gear. Im only a firewood cutter but have taken on a big job which requires me to put in a lot more time and as I work all week at another job it means I have to work every weekend whether it is raining or dry. I have never worn any PPE clothing other than boots and helmet but I'm thinking about getting some trousers and maybe a jacket but If I was going to pay the kind of money I have seen some of these things advertised I would have to be waterproof gear. Trousers would be my first buy.

Is the tractor currently listed on ebay? I bought a tractor off ebay a couple of years ago without seeing it first. The seller had hundreds of positive feedback many of them farm related items. Description was very detailed listing all good and bad points. I won the auction posted a cheque and sent a lorry to the south of england from N Ireland to collect it. Tractor was home couple of days later. Still have it and happy with it. The auction went to £8000. It was a big risk but worked out well.

Im starting to look for quotes for the road transport of timber which I wish to fell in the coming months. It will be by artic lorry in 24-27 ton loads, all softwood timber in 16ft lengths collected roadside on tarmac and delivered again on the roadside 22 miles away (all main roads). What would you expect to pay per load in your area?

Thats good advice guys. I think I will use a long length of box section say 100x50 havy wall and maybe 8-10ft long. This will attach directly to the tractor in place of a top link. I will then drop an a frame down to meet the lift arms. This means I can lift the butt of the logs well off the ground. If I kept the last few feet of branches on the top of the trees this would help keep the logs clean. How many do you think I could pull at a time given a butt diameter of 8-10 inches and dry conditions? Slack ma girdle any pictures would be a help im sure. My only source of information is the internet as I dont know any loggers. Im just a firewood cutter all be in on a large scale.

I have only been in the field once for half an hour and conditions were very good. As I say its only for firewood and I am in no panic so I can pick weather conditions to suit. if I had the first lorry load home before end June id be happy enough, at least that would be this winter sorted. Craig I have a small fraser tipping trailer but its only single axle. I had thought of making up a removable frame with a couple of large "U" shapes and forward them out with that. It would need to be real dry for the single axle trailer though Thanks for all the comments so far, giving me plenty to consider

Thanks timber cutter. Thats the kind of operation im interested in. I was intending skidding in 16ft lengths as that length suits most of the timber skellys round here. As for having timber strewn over 100 yards I intend using the front loader with a grab to tidy them up. I am staring to make one like this

These are the type of things I am interested in, simple but effective.Is the key to skidding getting the butt of the logs off the ground to prevent them from damaging both log and ground?

Yes its 12,000 trees and not tons and the majority are no bigger than 8" in diameter. the whole site is about 5 acres. It hasnt been thinned or maintained. I thought skidding would be fine as I have access across a very broad front maybe 300m and not tied to a lane or track and can take a different route almost every time. As its only for personal firewood I wish to keep the cost as low as possible. I have a small engineering workshop an could manufacture most types of grab or simple machine if there was something which would be useful. I do wish to stack them in an adjoining yard for artic collection.

Some of you may have seen my post regarding a small woodland I have purchased the timber from for firewood. Its 90% Norway spruce of about 20 years old and most of it is in the 6-10" range. I am felling and stripping manually with chainsaws , Im I no hurry to do it as it as much a hobby as anything. I wish to cut the trees into 16ft lengths and take them about 200m across a field to the road side using my tractor, an 885xl International 4WD for collection by artic timber skelly. My question is should I use the front end loader and make up some kind of a grab and carry the timber out or would I be better to skid them out behind the tractor using a chain and maybe some kind of attachment to lift the butts clear of the ground? I'll probably make a grab for the loader anyway to help with stacking the logs for collection. I saw this on youtube and thought it was a good idea. I want to be able to carry several lengths at a time as there is 12000 to come out. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WolPsDoUaCE]farm tractor with skidding lever - YouTube[/ame]

Parts came for the Ms240 today courtesy of GHS. Had all the bits cleaned last night and ready for assembly. New main bearings and seals, new small end bearing, Golf piston kit and gasket set. Total of £50 and a couple of hours this evening and all's going sweet again. Next job husky 136, and I bought myself a cracking 048av stihl. Had an 042 for years and always regretted selling it, so went one better. Bargain too at £190 delivered.

Yes originally it was m5 x 18

Coming up nicely, started with some fine wet and dry and rubbed lightly for the guts of half an hour. Just to polish up a little and should be good to go. I cannot find a meteor piston for it now. OEM almost £100!! The cylinder is def Mahle.

Heres a couple of snaps of the ms240 cylinder I mentioned in an earlier post. Does anyone think this is salvageable. I have never tried to clean up a cylinder before and wouldnt have the first clue how to other than it involves acid. I have always tried to source used or aftermarket cylinders but as I wish to keep this saw for my own use I would prefer to keep the OEM cylinder. Exhaust side Intake side

I have an IPL for the 020av but not sure how to put it on here. Maybe you have it anyway. Tank gasket is 1114 359 0700 which mister sols. have. As for ignition there is a few options. Has yours go a set of breaker points or solid state coil? Ill try attach a link to an IPL http://www.treeworld.info/attachments/f40/18065d1295572547-stihl-020-av-workshop-manual-stihl-020.pdf

I received an email from him this evening and he was wasnt aware of any faults or that the numbers were missing but he did refund £50 of the purchase price. That will help a bit. Anyone have a used OEM piston and cylinder knocking about? Will an MS 260 top end interchange?

Spied an ms240 on ebay last week from what seemed like a reputable gardenequipment retailer. Advertised as running very well and said to have been used on the day of advertising for cutting firewood. As history is unknown he stated it could do with a service. Buy it now £160 inc free p+p. It arrived today and I assembled bar and chain, filled fuel and it started easily. Compression felt O.K., but as soon as it fired I knew it wasn't right, it sounded noisy with a distinctive knock. Not very bad but not a nice sound. It idled erratically and stopped. I didnt re start it. So off to the bench and started to pull it down. First thing I noticed was the serial number has been removed with a grinder!!! Stolen saw? Also the decal on the chainbrake with date, model etc has recently been removed. Pulled off cylinder and both it and piston are heavily scored on exhaust side. There seem to be no play in the main bearings but a tiny movement in the conrod assembly when moving piston up and down. Unsure if its big or small end as movement is so little but its enough to make a noise when moved. Another disaster purchase from ebay. I have sent the seller an email explaining my findings. Grrr!

First saw i ever stripped too. Took me a while to figure it out. You have to remove the back bolt of the top handle. Two screws located below the handle. Theres a couple in round the exhaust. Take off the air filter and undo the two carb nuts and the couple of screws at the front of the recoil starter. They are a bit of an odd ball but nice to work at once you get them apart. Edit; they can develop a leak where the carb plugs directly into the tank(there is no fuel line). If it it the gasket, split the tank clean the joint face ond smear it with oil. set it oiled side down on a piece on a piece of card or gasket paper and the cut out the shape left behind by the oil. Thats how i make my gaskets. You should be able to buy the gasket if you dont want to diy

I think the comment was referring to my post. At no time did I feel I was a danger to other road users or not in control of my vehicle. I was on country roads in rural Ireland and speed was rarely in excess of 30mph if ever. The trailer is plated to 3500kg and the landrover gross train weight is over 6000kg. I doubt If i was even overloaded but I could be wrong. As for the tyre blowing out on investigation it was down to an individual tyre defect as the tyre had been damaged and plugged.

I had to wheel it all out an alley way at the side of the house in a wheel barrow. Some of them were very heavy and many of the rings had to be cut down the middle to aid lifting onto the trailer. I couldnt have done the same the next day though.