daltontrees

Not unheard of on Beech. I've never seen it knowingly on Beech in Scotland, but I'll be on the lookout. The most significant thing seems to be that H.a. operates to delignify, whereas I tend to think in tems of cellulose degradation (at least intially) on broadleaf trees for anything that yoyu could mistake for H.a. Any tipsfor distinguishing?

Interesting list of synonyms for this one, including Trametes fagi.

So I opened it up, manky inside. Got a big bucket (£10 form B&Q) and a big bottle of white spirit, and started scrubbing. All sorts of shiny metal appeared. It's now in the hsed having a long soak, I'll flush it out tomorrow. Meantime I cleaned the inside top cover. Reminds me of a roasting tin I had once. Not bad for a winch that's probably 40 years old. Now, where did I put that chicken?

What better to do after a long day on spikes than come home and crack open the Tirfor? Here's the old girl, and the part I had left over when I put it back together last week.

Just one, see pictures to follow...

Useful. Looks like paint thinner is the recommended solvent. I'll give that a go. My winch has to have 11.3mm cable. Quite exact. It got some kinks in it and stuck but I straightened it by hand. Just need to make sure you don't unwind it while straightening it. Thanks everyone.

Corkscrew the speedline once around the stem then take it to an adjacent tree and adjust tightness with a portawrap. The need for the iece to go round the stem will kill momentum and if you get the tension right (not to tight at all) the line stays loose unti the piece hits the ground then it has nowhere to go because it's on a sideways pull from the adjacent tree. You got to be ruthless about clearing stubs on the way up.

I think I've got to it in time, as it still pulls very well. Getting it apart is easy, getting it back together is the hard part.

This is an ancient thread but rather than start a new one I will add to this. I have an old 30cwt Tirfor and it has got prgressively harder to engage the release lever. I'd say it is now borderline impossible. So I took it apart today and it is caked inside with as ll sorts of gunk and crusty black stuff and the release spring is so gunged up it can't fully compress whuich is why I can't engage the lever. A full can of WD40 later applied at point blank range and some of the crud is off, but that's just the bits I can reach. Previous posters have suggested soaking in diesel, and I'd be tempted to scrub the innards in diesel with a (disposable) kitchen sink scrubbing brush in a large (very large) bucket as I can't see anything else removing enough crud to get it clean. The decal says to oil with lashings of heavy gear oil regularly, but someone has used axle grease and every pine needle and sand grain and swarf has adhered to it like non-setting glue. Any thoughts on this approach, anyone? Any contributions would be appreciated. I'll try and remember to take a pic of the innards tomorrow, as I have to open her up again anyway as I forgot to put one of the bits back in. Not a small bit either...

Eh, no not really.Trees don't have feelings, they just have automatic reactions to situations, pre-programmed genetically by millions or hundreds of millions of years of evolution snf communiocated chemically through vascular systems. That which worked was passed on, failures leave no offspring. I have forgotten why urea is applied to stumps, but I will remind myself shortly.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4228119/ Third paragraph in the Introduction and third paragraph in the Discussion. Root grafting appears to be important not so much for energy but for auxin triggers for callus development. Douglas Fir seems to be the ideal species for studying this phenomenon of 'stump overgrowth'. It may not just be a quirk of nature. In evolutionary terms, for a species with a tendency to root grafting the ability to close off even stumps could prevent the colonisation of whole stands by pathogens. Just my amateur theory.

Thanks, I'll settle for the Genus. Microscopy wasn't on my mind when seeing off hypothermia was.

Saw this today, mixed native woodland and this was offset from the base of a semi mature Ash. The resistance to frost disintegration is impressive, it was so cold I nearly fell apart.

Flambulina?

S'up to you, you reap what you sow on Arbtalk.

Acht, I have just moved office and I can't find a thing. It may be a day or two before the reference book I need comes to the surface.

There is a lack of advice on this question at the Arb Association, so here's the basics as I see it. The person you appoint should be qualified, and I would suggest minimum of Professional Tree Inspection and AA Tech. Insurance is a fundamental - at least £1M professional indemnity. Ask to see proof of it. It's not too cheeky to see a sample report. What you're needing is a tree risk assessment. That's not the same as the often-mentioned VTA (Visual Tree Assessment) methodology, which only covers about a third of the risk assessment process. I was going to go on and list all the other things you should be looking for, but it'll take too long. If you send me a private message through Arbtalk I will provide you with a consultant specification you can adapt. I'm not looking to get the job (I'm in Scotland) but I would be happy to help you make sure you get what you need form the survey and consultant. Asking for quotes for a 'tree survey' is like asking for quotes for, say, a car. If you don't specify how many wheels the car has to have, you'll get a Reliant Robin.

Interesting! And just having looked at 2012 Regulation 19 (2) (b) (ii), it seems there is no 28 day limit on appealing against an 8 week deemed refusal. Otherwise there would be no rationale to apply for TPO consent until the TPO is confirmed. So, apply on unconfirmed TPO, get refusal, and either wit for confirmation before appealing or wait for non confirmation and then do a Gary Prentice on it after 6 months. Or am I getting that wrong?

I may have a partial answer to the triggering mechanism, but you'll have to wait as it requires a lot of typing and I am having to leave on survey for a couple of days.

Thanks, that makes sense as I spotted something recently on Sycamore that I couldn't identify. I'll add this one to my repertoire.

True. What limited experience and knowledge I have of these things is that it comes down to a simple quetion of whether the tree is important for the amenity of the area. As long as the Council has not decided it is important on an unreasonable basis, there seems to be a reluctance of courts to interfere in Councils' discretion. A Review in theory is possible if the Council failed to consider the importance of the tree at all. And a succesful Review might merely result in the Council reaching the same decision later without the procedural mistakes.

David, do you have any experience of this one occurring on other Maple species, like Sycamore or Norway Maple?

And I suppose there is some possibility that whereas a TPO with no objections would be approved under delegated powers quickly but an objection might ofrce committee procedure which I would guess would add a month. So it may be quicker not to object.

There's no right of appeal against the making of a TPO. As you suggest, make application for the work on the TPO'd tree, wait for refusal or deemed refusal, appeal and wait again. Please remember the information needed to support a TPO application is considerably more onerous than for a CA notification.

I'm just back from the hills. "Just check the client's and your post on that morning, then go for it." A new TPO would not have to be se4rved via an agent. It should go to the owner/occupier. Your previous role as agent may not be relevant. Play it safe. Check the mail while fuelling up (you should be looking out for the postie as part of teh risk assessment).