howburn

We supply Aspen in our local area, customer pointed this out to me last week, MotoMix - Premixed Fuel - a convenient solution for those that want a reliable fuel Does it differ to Aspen?

Seen a few references to cleaning off aluminium deposits off cylinders that have resulted from material transferring from the piston to the bore. It is often mentioned that this is done chemically ether acid or alkali, any more details than this? What can I use? Thanks

Don't bother with the 1.3 vauxhall. It is a fiat engine and commonly has clutch, flywheel, turbo trouble, as well as poor electrics. It is a shame as they are good on fuel and nice to drive, just not very well made. I did a corsa up with the same engine, got a replacement engine from a scrap yard, the scrap yard said don't bother fixing they are bad news.

Further to my last post, if fitting a conversion kit take a look at this http://www.valeoservice.nl/data/master/webfile/10123266774CA473BA636D2.pdf?rnd=93 I have fitted Valeo conversion kits in the past with no obvious problem, but I have also fitted a non branded kit in one of our own cars (Corsa 1.3tdi SXI) and I was not happy with it, lots of gearbox noise etc. But I don't think Valeo do one for the Ranger yet.

Fairly certain Milner do not do it. Be cartful with second-hand as the flywheel may be near its wear limit and will not have far to go. I think it is a LUK clutch fitted from new and there technical line is quite good and tells you what level of movement is acceptable in a DMF. It is worth checking how worn your DMF is as if it is outside acceptable tolerance it will be false economy fitting the new clutch with out the new DMF. I can check the part numbers tomorrow, and I may have some alternative prices. It is a shame as this clutch kit is not really up to the job in the ranger if used for proper work, it is fine if just used as a car, on a good note it is not that bad a job to do, as far as clutches go. Have a look on eBay there are some 4 piece kits for sale at £580, be worth finding out what make they are etc. Dont think there are any off the shelf single mass conversion kits available yet for this truck, may be they way to go but I have mixed feelings about them.

Central Spares supply me with Jonsereds and I have a few in stock. CS are the importer of Jonsered and I think a trade only outlet, but this may have changed. I have sold a few over the last 18 months or so. I think they are OK, Jonsered, Husqvarna, Partner, McCulloch and Flymo are all part of Husqvarna outdoor products which in turn is owned by Electrolux. The way the range has been explained to me is such as the CS2138 etc is a hobby light weight saw and could be described as having McCulloch pedigree where as some of the medium & larger saws are more in line with Husqvarna and very different machines, so I think it is a case at picking the right saw in the range for you. I am also in Cumbria if you want to what I have in stock then PM me.

Oregon

I am helping a mate get going with a hakki pilke 1x37. We replaced the chain and bar about 10 days ago with a Carlton 16-01W-K2-TC12 bar and .325" - .058", 66 LINKS, SEMI-CHISEL chain. The bar is being turned everyday but the chain needs tightening at least 3 times a day, and is now past being tightened, and he has reverted to the old chain for the time being. I am not sure what this chain is. I have read on this forum that Jonsered bar’s and chains are best for this machine, and I have ordered Jonsered chain (5045701-66). But this will also be a ripper chain so we don’t want the same to happen. What chains are others using? Thanks

A collage course I was on years ago, said that the chain travelled at around 24 meters per second, I am sure there will be some variation on this.

Thanks for input. It was the Tillotson HL121B carb and I got a full kit for this. It also needed a new condenser, it runs well now and I gave it back to the customer last night. Cheers

I can help out with Jonsered manuals, just PM me for what you want.

Hi, Got the above saw in for repair, big heavy old thing. I need to replace the gaskets in the carb, the carb that is fitted is a Tillotson HL121B. Have been in touch with Tillotson and they claim it is the wrong carb for the saw. Wondered if anyone could shed any light, is this the wrong carb? I will probably stick with this carb on the saw as it was working OK in the past, just all the gaskets have dried out.

To follow-up on all the advice and help I have received. The owner brought back to me the barrel and piston, piston picking up on the exhaust side, some witness marks on the bore. Top of piston normal black colour. Both piston rings complete, but bottom ring stuck in where dealer mechanic missed the gudgon pin with the hammer, and consequently the piston is quite bashed up (think he missed lots of times)! After reading your comments, replies and the workshop manual, I think it was down to air leaks the damage doesn’t fit with the description on the workshop manual for over revving ether. Going by the witness marks for the gasket faces for the barrel to crank case and carb they don’t look perfectly even, air could have leaked through. Explained to customer that crank seals could be leaking or the crank case could even be cracked and to the best of my knowledge this has not been checked. Spoke to the supplier of the coil and he strongly doubted that the coil was the cause, has supplied loads been in business 40 years. As goodwill and without asking he supplied a new barrel and piston. I have had somebody else look at the damage and their thoughts fit with what I have described above, as does the coil supplier. So to summarise the original damage, the general thoughts are ether poor workmanship when fitting barrel and piston or other air leaks. The owner did say the first he was aware that the saw was not right after they had repaired it was when it constantly ticked over very fast (air leak?). Suggested he went back to the dealer and asked a few questions, did it run OK when they put it back together? Did they check the engine revs? If the coil that was fitted was so detrimental why did they re-fit it or advise him? And also say that he had had advice that the damage may be down to what I have said above. The head mechanic/Forman replied "spoken to Husqvarna and they say it’s the coil". The dealer would take no liability what so ever. I spoke to Husqvarna about the coil yes it could cause the damage the dealer claims. I however in this case disagree. Cheers

You could try one like this. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bVAAx3mMKY&feature=fvw]YouTube - WORLDS FASTEST LOGSPLITTER[/ame]

Thank you very much for the advice so far, particularly to niftysteve for the PDF. I was unaware of revlimiting coils, and can see them causing trouble. I really need to find out if this defiantly needed one. The owner fortunately does not hold me responsible and he is bringing the saw and damaged parts back to me for inspection. The coil I bought was advertised as a non genuine but direct replacement for this saw. OE part number 503901701. After market part number GHS 2727. So if this is the cause then there may be some come back. Thanks

I know it's not a chainsaw, but I need some advice. The above saw came to me for repair in July this year. Not running no spark. Diagnosed faulty coil. New genuine 'green' coil £85 GBP. Non genuine of eBay around £45. The seller has very good feedback (100% + and 46500 have left feedback). I can't leave a link on this posting, you can search eBay UK for the coil, I think there is only one seller selling such an item. The saw went fine, gave it back to customer. Month or so after saw was starting to play up, as my customer had another machine from the dealer he let the dealer look at this saw, they replaced barrel and piston and gave it back to him, and he has been using it. Until last week refused to start. He took the saw back o the dealer and they say needs new barrel and piston again, due to it over revving because of non genuine coil. I would be interested on your thoughts on this. I was not aware that the coil controlled, limited the revs. Or is it possible the dealer did the first repair wrongly and using the coil as a scape goat. Thanks in advance.