Dean O

bank farm trailers in Swansea - they said that they've had a falling out with IW over spares availability.... there possibly more to it, two sides to every story etc. I like the look of these tilt beds though - brian james current version seems to be the 'cargo all plant' and seems to be available with low sides and mesh kit and bucket rest as an option, which could be handy.

I hadn't realised that they offered one aimed at this market - its interesting to note you can get the stumpy on there too. is it an 8 ft or 10ft

popped into my local trailer place today - who was a ifor Williams dealer they are about to change brands to a competitor - but cant tell me who yet...

thanks guys I'm at home now, couldn't use the search function on my phone earlier for some reason. they do look good, but I may need it to be able to carry out other duties too. carrying the odd log, stump grinder. also looking at the possibility of having to carry a small 1.5 t digger. can I fit one on a gd model due to having to accommodate the arm vs draw bar length? am I asking it to do something it just cant do? thinking at the mo that a shift to a 10 ft general purpose might allow me to spread the weight of the chipper on the bed better.

Currently using a gd85 ifor. Which is good for size but now needs a new floor and a rewire and is a good few years old. I've noticed one of the bearers is starting to bend. Not sure wether to spend a bit on it and maybe weld in some more bearers or just trade it in for new. Not sure wether to get something stronger. Probably still an ifor as the dealers just down the road... but what are the options. What are you guys using? Thanks. Dean

thanks - will take a look.. Dean

sorry I should add - our role there isn't to pick up handle or dispose of (re latex gloves), as if we see a needle - work can stop until its dealt with.... its the accidental contact with I'm trying help mitigate against. Hence thinking some Kevlar gloves would be a suitable additional measure. thanks Dean

we have training and a sharps box but would like to add some new gloves to the ppe as an additional precaution. the job is just removing shrubs in an urban setting - likely low risk - however as low as the risk might be, unfortunately, there is one in most settings like this. If it was a high risk needle littered spot I'd give it a miss, but in this instance - if I can reduce the risk to myself and employees, further, its sensible to do it. any one recommend some gloves, there must be employees out there that have issued or used them? I'm thinking those I've mentioned (or something similar) could be slipped on under chainsaw gloves, and might give some added protection against pyrocanthus too? thanks Dean

looking at buying gloves for a site where there is a risk of needles present. any recommendations? turtleskin range looks good such as: TurtleSkin CP Neon Insider 330 or 430 look ok to keep dexterity and offer some protection? thanks Dean

try a new battery in the fob first

Ive got a 4x4 2140 iseki Its not for work - bought it for topping some small fields but its sat unused for the last year - to busy to get in there myself ended up asking the local farmer to go in there and flail. the topper I run on it is a bit on the heavy side (only 4 ft but well built) so weights on the front are a must. just had the hydraulics and clutch overhauled as the seals were on the way out and gear changes getting awkward (and planning on selling in the spring due to planned move), getting parts took a search but are available. they hold their value well for what they are. the only other comment I have is - it scares the poo out of me on side slopes.

calculating against my revenue it doesn't look that much better for me - around 36% as I blew loads o money on kit that year which skews things

was that 21% of revenue or 21% of costs, thanks

no - my salary is a fixed cost, whereas dividends are quite dependant on the level of profit the company makes. I'm conscious that I don't want to get into discussing profit percentages - as I feel this might be personal to people who may otherwise contribute to the thread regarding costing's. different business's will vary - if I was a sole individual carrying out consultancy I would expect my costs to be much lower (less equipment to by, maintain, fewer staff etc.) - but my wage may remain the same so would hope to have a healthy salary v total cost %. I believe the restaurant industry aims for a salary: total business costs of around 30%. maybe it would be a better gauge to measure salary% to business income or profit? but was hoping that some out there may have made the same sort of analysis of their own business at some point.

has anyone recently worked out their labour cost as a percentage against their total running costs? and does anyone know whether there is an 'ideal' - either in this industry or in business as a whole? should say to make clear I'm not after exact figures - just a percentage of total business costs. Im running at 37% - which seems a little high as I've had a lot of equipment expenditure over the last year - which has pushed my total costs up. Thanks Dean

We have a member of staff who when left the RAF did a number of tickets through resettlement. in all honesty they were the tickets that fitted the value of his resettlement not the ones that were really needed by prospective employers leaving him a little underqualified for his aspirational carreer direction. I wouldn't discourage you from this carreer choice if that's the way you want to go but I would see two hurdles - financially you are entering as a casual labourer with no experience of the job - pay will reflect this - I know you say this wont matter as you have a full time job - but at some point you will need to value the amount you are being payed to work weekends against the value of spending time with the wife and kid - you will need to be working regular weekends to pick up the necessary skills and add to your quals as you go..... then at some point would you want to move away from your current carreer and into this one. that transition will likely still result in a drop in wage and possibly, as a new guy learning the trade a drop in job security. you wont be laughed at - there are many in the industry that have moved into this line of work for the same reasons as you good luck

it wasn't the question - but I think you should weigh up whether its worth selling at all - by that I don't mean whether the vid or content itself is any good - but whether you think the value to you is worth 100/200 quid in terms of how much 'good' it will do you. this could be in terms of goodwill from this employer (ie repeat custom) or direct financial return. you could leave it on you tube and let other people you work for (or people you don't) know its is on there and this would likely return more value to you directly. if you had a good relationship I would have said allow him to use it for free but request that your name is credited somewhere in the text adjacent to the vid link - but from what you have said regarding 'business' and there is no give or take between you then - personally - I'd find it easier to just not sell it (unless desperate for money).

I built one in our loft when we moved in here. I climbed a lot at the time and the pitch was good for training body tension, static moves etc. got a mix of the normal climbing wall holds as well as odds and sods made from bits of logs and pockets - make sure you get hold of a mix of lengths of hex head bolts as the holds you make yourself often need a bit more wood behind them to stop them pulling through

would Rylands Vs Fletcher be of relevance - in this instance water escaping from highway land leaving them liable? might not - in the same way as falling leaves doesn't?

Thank you for the info guys, both have popped up on ebay relatively locally and seem to be at the right price (but not so cheep to be suspicious) similar hours, similar money, similar condition etc

Can any one tell me the difference between these two machines? they seem to have the same engine/ same hp the 14 is a little lighter but has better height and depth, but a little less horizontal reach than the 18 the 18 seems to have two speed tracking.... is that it? am I missing something? any one with experience good or bad of these machines or knowledge of their reputations? thanks Dean

old and new chain both have 114 drive links (36 inch bar) only difference ive noticed after looking closely is - the old chain is a stihl new is Oregon.. just never noticed it being such a struggle getting it on, or so little clearance. thanks guys - will give it a run and see if it stretches a bit.

Ive just struggled for ages trying to get a new chain on the 660 - is it just me or is the bar sitting a bit close to the sprocket? its not touching - but only a mm or two clearance.

ha ha - OK should have said - not sure how much heartwood there is in the elm I have ... ie might have a high proportion of sapwood. walnut would be a nice compliment. re comment regarding oak - yes makes me think end grain of ash might be a bit soft compared to the yew. maybe beech?

also have some elm - not sure on what the heartwood is like