andythesquirel

What Silky handsaw do you use off the ground?

Grey Git - I have been looking at a Cannon bar from tavistock for milling. How do you rate them against standard stihl/husky bars?

Charlie, thanks for the comments. Regarding swapping of bars. Stihl uses a 12mm hole, and Husky uses 9mm. However, CANNON BARS make an adapter plate so that Stihl bars can be used on Huskys. Never met anyone who has used one of these adapter plates yet, but would be beneficial to me in my part time role.

:wave:Greetings - My first thread ! I am a part timer, who has both stihl and husky saws of various sizes. I use them for general tree work and milling. Because of the different makes I have different bars and chain link gauge's: husky 0.058 (1.5) and stihl 0.063 (1.6). I am looking at standardizing my equipment, so that i can exchange bars between machines (where applicable) and buy chain in bulk for cost saving. Husky chain is narrower, therefore should cut quicker and when milling gives narrower kerf, but at only 0.1 mm difference stihl might be preferable for obtaining ripping/normal chains locally. Any comments would be appreciated.

Welcome from another new guy! Am sure you will enjoy this site as much as I do.

I cannot fault any of the previous comments about mogs. A number of years ago I picked a ex-military U900 406 (baby mog!) cheap when my land rover packed in. The offroad capabilities, are awsome! I have had no major problems - But let me be clear "THIS IS NOT MY WORKS VEHICLE". I do not have to rely on it. You have to keep them well maintained and the parts are definately not cheap. I agree with MIKE and ED, only buy one if you need one. If so, get the best one you can, and make sure you have the right spec you want, as it often costs more to afterfit hydraulics/PTO's/etc than if you had bought a vehicle with them on in the first place. I would recommend Mogs of any size to anyone, but they are definately a specialist vehicle, and are only required in certain circumstances. Work out realistically what you need, and make sure you buy the appropriate equipment.

Sorry Dave, wrong Andy, but thanks for the welcome.

No problem with using old builders bags unless they are refundable from the company. Most builders merchants now use disposable bags, and so customers just bin them. Watch out if you are offered old bags stored outside. They can degenerate in the sun causing unseen weakness. It's not amusing having filled a 1t bag only to have it split open when its lifted up !!!

Jason, thanks for the supportive comments. ** It's frightning how easy it is to narrow down my job !!! ** Fortunately I work in a rural area, where common sense can sometimes circumvent the rules and paperwork created by people in positions who have no idea how the real world works ! Love to get into the industry, just planning and biding my time.

I am new to this site and am very much impressed by it, and the people who use it. I am also considering getting more involved with qualifications etc relating to this business. However, like some of the others on this thread, I am 35. I have read, and heard, numerous comments previously stating that I am too old and basically have missed my chance to partake in this type of work, and get involved in this industry. To explain, I currently am working in a job which is secure and has reasonable wages/pension, and so cannot realistically pack it up due to family commitments. (I dare not state what I do due to obvious comments/abuse I will receive). However, I have never enjoyed this job and fell into it by circumstances, and would relish the opertunity to do part time work. I am a SERIOUS PART TIMER. I have previous recreational climbing experiance, worked for council for a short while in parks dept (when qualification restrictions were ignored!) and am involved in numerous woodwork activities including chainsaw milling etc. Whilst owning Land Rovers and Unimog also, i have a lot in common with members on this site. Back to the point, the members commenting on this site are realistic and supportive. I do not believe I can compete with the younger person entering this business, but I do believe that any participation at any age, should be encouraged by persons in the industry. I feel that no matter what the age, there is a role for the mature person, if qualified and motivated. Sorry for the long comments but just pleased to find such a informative and useful site, and be able to be part of it.

There is quite a bit of wastage with a chainsaw mill (ie width of chainsaw chain vs width of bandsaw blade), and clean up is a problem if required. However, a chainsaw mill (hardware only) costs only a fraction of a bandsaw mill, as you probably allready own the chainsaw. Only thing left to buy is a ripping chain. Also a small bandsaw mill can only handle small diameter logs, and usually requires two people, where as chainsaw mill can handle logs the diameter of the bar length, and can be operated by one person. Obviously a larger bandsaw mill could be operated by one person due to frame etc, but you are talking serious money. There is a place for both. If you want to see milling pictures of both, check out http://www.mobilesawing.co.uk

Nice work. i slabbed up a sycamore 2.5ft with a logosol big mill earlier this year. i did not have the equipment to move the log and wanted the wood for a workbench. Milling used up a hell of o lot of oil, and slow/hard going, but produced some lovely pieces of pattered wood. - well worth the effort. Did you have any problems?