Mark B.
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Everything posted by Mark B.
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Just to let you know, the second edition of the Hitch Climbers' Guide to the Canopy is available on the Treemagineers' web-site as a free PDF download. It discusses various aspects of the Hitch Cilmber work positioning system and techniques and tricks you can use use with it... Download it under the following link: http://treemagineers.com/downloads/hitch_climbers_guide.pdf We're alway interested in feedback, so if you have any comments, feel free to get in touch. Regards, Mark.
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In the "Hitch Climber's Guide to the Canopy" the use of a fisherman's knot as a termiation is defined as a misconfiguration and we strongly discourage tying a termination knot and recommend the use of a spliced eye. The stiched eyes on the eye2eye slings have a double function, 1) they keep the sling held in postion and 2) they add stiffness, keeping the legs of the knot more upright and the wraps of the knot further up. This prevent the hitch from opening up as much and will make it behave in a more consistent fashion. Regards, Mark.
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Just messing around really. I had been using the lanyard on the piece before to position myself with on the leaning stem. It's handy to be able to attach the lanyard into the bottom of the swivel. No torque going on on the rope bridge, HCs well aligned and still only one direction of pull on the bridge. Me likee!
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Peter, I think the two rope approach can be very appropriate when working trees that are structurally dodgy. A couple of weeks back we section felled a dead birch with some serious cavities on the lean side. I piggy-backed two Hitch Climbers one on top of the other, works really well actually. You can operate both hitches more or less with one hand, one attachment point on your harness (in this case it makes sense to be using a swivel). Definitvely made an unpleasant situation feel less so...
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On the newer models it does. But not on the pictured model 2
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Mesterh, as far as I can tell that image is upside down... I had one of those lowering devices and struggled with it. One of the issues I have with these older port-a-wrap models is that the lead of the line can jump off, i.e. it's not held captive. I've attached an image of one of the newer models, a FOS, where you can see the way the line is held captive by means of a karabiner. On the port-a-wrap III you pass a bight of line through the top of the device. Whichever device you ultimatively decide to go with, with all of them it's important to cinch them well up against the tree trunk to prevent the device flopping around as the bit you're rigging is being caught by the rigging system. Also a good idea is to choke the sling directly onto the device, and not using a karabiner between the sling and the port-a-wrap. Again, one thing less to go wrong or cross-load.
